Moorzee
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Everything posted by Moorzee
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Ideally as close to Manchester as possible. Cash waiting. Many, many thanks PAblo
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Absolute arse of a job. No way can i get this "h frame" out. Whatever nut is behind the top two screws is just spinning and for the life of me i can't get a spanner on to stop. Think its gonna have to cost me a few bob, gonna have to send to a garage. What a pain.
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Cheers. So when trying to go down the tunnel off route i have taken passenger seat, this lets me lift back the carpet so i can see cover. Would i need to remove the support panel underneath the dash? It is a panel with four bolts at bottom and has radio placed in it?
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Hiya, totally noob question but how would i get to the bleed nipple of slave cylinder? Is it a question of jack up front left of car and get underneath whilst missus presses the clutch pedal? thanks for any pointers. Paul.
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Does anyone here have a decent step by step guide for replacing clutch on a spit 1500?
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My spitfire has a switch in same place and I thought sheeeet that is cacky. Anyhow when I switched it the horn blows!!!!! Most daft.
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Sexy circles
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michael_charlton wrote:There`s a word for the Spit owners who don`t drive all year round with the top open.... ;D They look the bollox with a hardhat on though?
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I'd love to get on this, and have asked before on this forum of wisdom and was told not much chance but does anyone know of/recommend any insurance companies that would consider giving a weekend pass for me and my son, will be 19 at time of 10cr, insurance? He'd buzz his tits off driving a spitty through europe and I'd be proud as punch :)
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Who is entering the 10CR this coming November?
Moorzee replied to Tim Bancroft's topic in Ten Countries Run (10CR)
Can anyone advise? Would flipping love this in my life. Son is 18 and struggled to get sensible insurance for everyday named driver on the spitfire. What are chances of getting insurance just for the event? How long is the run? What is average cost of particpation, fees, fuel, accomodation etc... What is the schedule? What else does a newbie norvern munkee need to know before signing up? :) -
michael_charlton wrote: If you are just refitting original covers on to the new sponge, then its quite easy The trick is using a polythene bag to cover the sponge so the cover slides easy over the new sponge Not as hard as it seems As you sound like you have performed this simplest of jobs :-) i am using existing covers, do i need to perform all the mad drawing and cutting of foam?
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Foam on way for my drivers seat only, shitting myself about putting them in, know I'm gonna cock it up (puke)
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-MK3-4-1300-1500-STAINLESS-MILD-STEEL-SPORTS-EXHAUST-SYSTEM-/251642193571?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a970b26a3 Would you bother with this system off ebay? Brand new look like they are coming in around £400 *gulp*...
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Is there any recommended "best" place for acquiring such an item?
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I'm thinking that perhaps the spitfire I've bought might need an extra gear as the mooching I am doing in it has M-Way stretches in. I've been looking and see them regularly on Ebay etc... but am stumped as to how I'd know what type I need, J/D extra? For instance, would this, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Spitfire-1500-overdrive-gearbox-Laycock-J-type-for-MG-Midget-conversion-/171447039747?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27eb0a3703 , fit a 1976 spiftire 1500? why or why not? What is the right amount to pay for a box and do I need to ask any magic questions/see any magic numbers on them etc...? Thanks...
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Whats the score with "poly" anyhow? when I was looking to buy ads stated poly and full poly etc.... What are they and why would I need?
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Manchester based, not a triumph specialist but the boy looking at the motor is older than me and I'm no spring chicken, says he was raised on these things, we'rent they all? :) The motor has not been converted to unleaded, however I've read and heard some musings that using the super unleaded fuels are near as damn it the same??? I spent 350 last week, the guy I took it too then said he had tightened the fan belt as that was slack, put a bolt in the alternator as that was missing(causing slack belt) still overheated so he whipped the water pump off and replaced and all was hunky dory. 1/2 an hour later it was overheating and water coming from under the cap. Took it to this bloke, to be fair has been in contact all the way letting me know, and he says the water pump isn't circulating and this has probably caused head gasket to pop. :(
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michael_charlton wrote: Doing it ones self it would cost around £15.00 to £20.00 A garage would charge anywhere around £30.00 to £50.00 an hour for a three to four hour job.......dependent on where you go......also on how long they would take Some who know what they are doing at a bespoke Triumph place would have it done and back together in no time At a `modern` establishment there will be a sucking of air between pursed lips and blowing of hot air trying to explain how difficult the job is So 350 is bang out of order then :-/
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Roughly how much should I need to pay a garage to replace a bust cylinder head gasket and grind the valves etc... while they are at it? :(
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377 wrote:I was wondering the same myself as it does look wrong and if I put the roof up with the windows up the flap sits outside which means you then can't get the doors open. I don't feel quite as daft now :)
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smithy wrote:Think of it like the tube map. Central Line to Marble Arch, Northern line to your destination. See the number 72's in the middle? Those are the fuses. Edgeware road. The rev counter (tachometer - number 5) is intermittent 'cos you've got problems with the signals on the Hammersmith and City. Simples. This is a +1. Ta..... :) Now where is the subwoofer fuse and the electric soft-top motor????????? (clap)
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6797 wrote:On a 1500 the rev counter is electrical, fed along with many other items (gauges, wiper motor, heater motor etc etc) from a common fuse. This might be useful: (http://www.andystanton.co.uk/spitfire/oilybits.htm) Might well be useful if I could read hieroglyphics???? :D
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Mj17 wrote:If the car lives outside you may want to keep doing what you're doing actually. It varies from car to car but how well the hood and window do/can be made to fit together varies, with a correponding difference in how dry things stay inside the car. Normally 'flaps inside' is fine but with the door/hood fit on my car I was very glad I went 'flaps out' when leaving it outside as the tail of the hurricane dumps on us last week! Thanks for heads up....
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4526 wrote:Here is one picture when i just installed it.. Will try and make some more this afternoon or so. That's fine mate.... I went and "jiggled" the fuses and working for now, I don't understand why the rev counter would be affected though? I thought that was just a mechanical thing from the gearbox???? Just out of interest, could moody fuses contribute to a non functioning speedo as well? If not any tips on getting the fine stopping needle to tell me how slow I am going working again folks? :D
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4526 wrote:Did someone call out my name ? ::) ;D Well i've got rid of the old fuse box because otherwise i needed to add fuses between the wires and then the fuses would be everywhere. Wanted all the fuses in 1 place. So i've cut the piece of the old fuse box, where the wiring loom goes through and left that in place . But then i needed to cut some metal out of the bulkhead and make a surround for the blade fuse boxes. I now do have 2 x 6 blade fuse boxes and they are all full :o (was planning in the future for a bigger one !). Well need to search for pictures, normally they where on my facebook, but that's dead now :o Otherwise i will need to make new ones :) As for the wiring.. i left the 3 fuses alone, so i still have the 3 fuses and all the rest are the extra bits i've added. Didn't want to mess with it all under the dash, because it all worked back then. Oh and your facebook link below works a treat? Some cracking piccies there......