rotoflex
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Everything posted by rotoflex
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The PDWA with the stub at one end uses round profile O-rings, which you can get at a hydraulics supply store. Tell them they're going in a car, & they'll get you rings made of EPDM, which is the correct material which they know mainly as petroleum-resistant. Take them an old ring to size, but I think it's EPR EPDM Size 008 5/16OD x 3/16ID x 1/16W The earlier PDWA wihich has a bolt at each end, & is the type originally fitted to my car but was superseded by the one with the stub on the end, used square-section O-rings which all suppliers seem unable to source. I've seen that some people have said that the correct size in a round-section O-ring works fine for replacement.
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Here's the original photo:
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Delicious grain on that dash.
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Could it be the issue with pitted rocker arms causing incorrect clearance measurement?
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Outstanding!
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I spy the flat sidemarker gaskets, not the triangular profile gaskets.
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Do you mean from the inside? I don't think so. The exterior of the sills have 2 plugs per side. There are also plugs in the bottoms of the doors & the boot floor. I think the parts manual shows the locations of the plugs.
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Thin, black, ungrained vinyl glued to the A-pillar. Semi-glossy or flat. The headlining's edge is on top. Is all the wiring run through the cabin already? Are all the little rubber plugs in place?
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Do you folks have those U-Wash-Em type car washes over there, in which there are bays into which you drive your car, & in the bay is a high-pressure wash wand? Those things clean floor mats really well: You hang them vertically on wall holders in the bay, then soap & rinse them with the pressure washer It seems like it would do well for removed carpets also.
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That's a lot of fuses!
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The frame of my car has been straightened a couple of times, so I'm reluctant to measure & offer it as a reference!
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My car came with air conditioning from the BL dealership, & so did not have the front engine lifting eye (the bracket for the A/C compressor replaces it). The first time I stripped it down, including head off, and took the bottom end/block out by hand. The second time I took the engine out, I used an engine hoist. Since there was no lifitng eye, I used the technique of wrapping webbed straps around the engine a few times, & picking it up by the straps. When it went back in, I put a lifting eye on the engine, but I think the webbing approach worked better. After you get it out, be sure to have an engine stand to put it on. Makes a world of improvement over flopping it over on the workbench like a big fish while you're working on it.
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Also he should have the H-piece radio surround under the dash, to put the scuttle where it's going to wind up.
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Who's got what to do for 2012?
rotoflex replied to Radders's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
There's something about mothers and impugning the reliability of Triumphs. Typical Thanksgiving family reunion from my past: My mom: "You're not driving the Triumph to Atlanta! It will break down!" Me: "Umm, I just drove it from Mobile to Portland, Oregon and back, diagonally across the USA, and no problems..." Mom: "YOU SHOULDN'T HAVE DONE THAT! YOU DON'T KNOW IF IT WILL MAKE IT OR NOT!' Me: "I've been driving it every day for years and it's fine..." Mom: "That doesn't mean it won't break down!" Me: "It's more reliable than that Honda you had to have that's still sitting in the garage waiting to be towed to the dealership again..." Mom: "THAT'S NOT THE POINT! WE'RE TALKING ABOUT THE TRIUMPH! Me: "It's a great car, no problems." Dad: "Now, now, let's not argue, but while we're on the subject and Bill is here, we can rent a tow dolly from the gas station and Bill can tow the Honda to the dealership. The Volkswagen camper needs to go, too." Me: "OH NO, I'M NOT TOWING ANYTHING WITH THAT CAMPER. I'M NOT EVEN GETTING IN THAT THING AGAIN." Dad: "Well, the camper doesn't start, so it has to be towed. You can use the truck and tow your mother's Honda, then come back and take the camper." Me: "TOW THE CAMPER? IT ALMOST KILLED ME DOING THAT LAST TIME!" Dad: "Well, you had to tow it with the Monza last time, which probably wasn't a good idea. It will probably be fine towing it with the truck." Me: "THAT CAMPER WRITHES LIKE A SNAKE WHEN IT'S BEING TOWED, AND WHEN THE WIND HITS IT, IT DOES EVERYTHING IT CAN TO JACKKNIFE. YOU NEED TO GET A FLATBED." Dad: "Oh, maybe not this time. I'm sure it will be fine behind the truck." Mom: "I HATE THAT TRUCK. I WISH IT WOULD JUST FALL OFF THE FACE OF THE EARTH." Hours later, nearing the middle of the night when the harrowing and complex car towing/swapping ballet is completed, nothing approaches the feeling of relief and safety of getting in the Triumph, pulling out the choke, and contemplating the pleasant drive leaving the automotive madness farther and farther behind. -
Have you got a copy of the owner's manual for that Spitfire? I seem to recall that the light was shown in the picture for "Here is where you put the ignition key to start it". You might also consider connecting the door switches to the horns to create a sort of basic car alarm.
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2597 wrote:Why does the spit have door opening switches - would they be for alarm as pretty useless on convertable? I would imagine for the little light by the ignition switch, if things are the same over there.
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Burled walnut, there's a flashback:
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Excellent progress!
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Progress indeed!
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Leon Guyot insulated his fuel line, as well as added a heat shield between the carbs & exhaust: http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl/Blah.pl%3Fm-1267839478/Blah.pl?m-1305719993/s-15/#num29
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mpbarrett wrote: The solution was to pour water over the pump and carbs bowels That never would have occurred to me, but if it works, I'm all for it. Did you have the cardboard engine valances in place? Can a comparison of vapor lock issues be made among GT6 Mk3's that ran, differentiated by whether the engine valances were in place?
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Thanks for the link, still no sign of them.
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Three stages in a restoration: 1. Ugly 2. Real ugly 3. Beautiful Hang in, it's a fun, beautiful, & pretty simple car. It looks like a fairly intact car, which will make things easier: about the standard amount of rust on the scuttle, you've still got many orginal-ish things like the fuel pump, even down to the rubber flap for the air excluder.
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michael_charlton wrote: I saw one of those once when it broke and the oil was filling up behing the glass. That would give me horrible The Enemy Below flashbacks in a close hardtop like the GT6.
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I replaced the temp gauge in my GT6 with a Smith's temp/oil pressure combo gauge.