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frenchiemk2

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Everything posted by frenchiemk2

  1. Vey interesting. As i struggled a lot with my "long time ago convereted to Bosch french PI", i'm very interested in this post. i had a very bad experience with the Sytec (OTP44 -3044.1), I bought 1 and since the begining had the "-' pole moving but did not fail at ignition, then when in order to run, there was a fuel leak at succion😬! then after few hours, it couldn't keep pressure charge and fainted. If i had an estate tank, i'd certainly try to install a pierburg immersed fuel pump (new hole and cap) with bag filter: no leak, no distance succion or hose diameter problems. On more recent car, those pumps can feed distributors for longer cars, and the filters can be located just before metering units like Audi 100-200 Avant turbo. I know, the Bosch K-jet needs less pressure than the Lucas M.U. Now i have put a real 044 Bosch but I still wonder if it's working good enough ( i guess YES because I poped out the injectors and they sprayed nice). Also, i think i will try a swirling pot (because on long left turns with low fuel, the Pi tank is not helping and if you know a bit France, we have not only turnig roads, but also those roundabouts on every f.road...). I saw nice mountings here with Dash connectors, but did not invest in those, maybe i should. One question someone may answer is about positive pressure : - in the tank ? - between the tank and the swirl pot/external fuel pump? i think putting a small facett just after the tank to pre-feed the pot.
  2. Yes i cleaned the throttles before the first start that was more than a year now. You're right about the distributor, 180° false, the reason why it didn't engage correctly, and the clam was bent so i fixed that, but still, not runing today (very cold outside). Ther's spark. I'll check again if there's fuel coming from the pump (new Bosch 044 which are supposed to be the best). Martin from Millturn also answered me about the possible throttle issues and how to detect them. Sometimes i feel like 5cyl Audi have less issues... and i know quite well they have, sometimes. Just for fun, imagine a 10V turbo 160-180Hp in a triumph with that peculiar sound...
  3. Well... end of year was deceiving. I went to a small garage nearby in which i know the owner for long to make oil changes on box and rear train + front engine mounts.. On the way to the garage, in a roundabout (we take them turn left here ) the car started to rattle a bit. At the garage we could do the job but the car seemed to turn on 5 cyl or whatever wrong. At a moment we did not have any ignition because the ignitor disengaged from the insert (just like it's notenough engaged in) and that clamp seemed faulty and sure the bolt thread was defective, that made the ignitor rotate... even with a new bolt it's not tightened enough. Did anyone enconutered this before? A mistake by G was to touch the settings i did on the throttles 😕 I could reach back home but the engine ran worst eventhough i could help myself out by the side of the road. I thought it could be air or particles in the fuel system or valves setting gone wrong. Friday and saturday i have redone the fuel pump and filter Bosch in the trunk, checked all the injectors and they spray fine, checked valve adjustment again, just minor settings... at one moment i could set idle and get to 4500 RPM and then it failed again. What the hell is wrong... On the try to set the throttle back to an operant setting i noticed that 1st and 3rd throttle have a slight depression difference 1st inlet has more depression than the second and 5th has more than 6th (seems well balanced on 3rd-4th). As you imagine, i know no one in France able to check those or have them redone and in GB, takes veryyyy long + VAT and customs fees.
  4. Yes. The car leaning a bit on direction changes and curves but suspensions are tired. 1st i put new struts to see how it behaves and then i will see if sway bar is needed to improve.
  5. I shouldn't pay : - double vat - added fees for transport companies like UPfuckS - neither customs fees because parts made in england plus oldtimers parts cars.
  6. Thanks, i didn't know the estate ans the 2.5S had it According to ordering in GB, i admit that i'm bored of double VAT + fees... but i'll have a look at the springs. Unfortunately i have no relatives in GB.
  7. Hi Does a swaybar improve the driving of rhe Pi and does the Stag one fit to the mk2 ? Thanks
  8. Hi guys, I want to operate the transmission fluids maintenance on the Pi Mk2, but 1 info is missing about oil quality I know the oil type is the same for raer axle and gearbox : SAE 90 but if you have other advice... Rear axle oil capacity is 1.15l gearbox oil capacity 1.42l. Thanks
  9. Contrôle Technique (MOT) passed ! 😁
  10. Anyone knows what is this big black and white wire near the tank of my Pi saloon ?
  11. Before we had it, we used this on smartphone, GPSTRIP which is very usefull ! We still use it at safety : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gpstrip&pcampaignid=web_share
  12. News Opened the fuel gauge unit sender and couldn't fix the light low fuel alert but the gauge is working... So i won't touch again. Brakes issues in progress with re-tightening rear shoes as suggested + new front pads to balance forces. I have the car to pass the C.T again. And i recently had an opportunity in 2nd hand sales for cheap : all functional Terratrip with GPS signal for the saloon Pi. A touch of sports for the car, and as my mate Philippe an I are participating to regional historical vehicles races, maybe ready for doing so or 2nd car ready. Easy to uninstall with no visible mount damage if i need to remove it
  13. Installed a tripmaster for the saloon Pi. A touch of sports for the car, and as my mate Philippe an I are participating to regional historical vehicles races, maybe ready for doing so or 2nd car ready. Easy to uninstall with no visible mount damage. Great opportunity 2nd hand sales for cheap. All functional with GPS signal.
  14. OK, i could open (slighlty and not completely because of welds) the sender unit, it's plastic and metal this scheme is what should be (i guess) : 2 parallel inner branches. 1 sliding on the copper wire to indicate level and secondary makes contact for low fuel. So when the 2 branches (red on scheme) are full left, there should be light and gauge should indicate empty (am i correct?). What i have : - when the 2 branches are down and in contact pole, gauge says FULL, when moving them to the opposite, they indicate EMPTY - alarm light never shuts/off - branch sliding on copper wire makes scratches at some point - outer lever can be moved away from the axle, not sure it's always tightened enough to the axle So, to still get the level info, i put the sender unit on this position in order to have at least 1 correct information on gauge : fuel level in the tank
  15. Do you know the position or orientation the seal plate should be in order to close the tank and the lever to operate? 1st i want to get the fuel level back on the gauge 2nd fix the alarm level red light I'm watching Youtube vids to find how to test the sender unit
  16. I just checked. The problem is the switch in the tank. At some moment moving the branch lever i noticed a slight difference in the light on the dash but never "switched off" Do you know any tutorial about the hole thing because i don't think i can open the stuff to see inside. During the operation the lever went off. And as there's no mark or position indication I'm a bit lost. I wish i had the tank full as the gauge says but i lnow it's nealy empty .🙄
  17. Thanks for the tip. That's what i almost tried to do so i will just have a look at the rear right side to tighten a bit. I'm closed to succeed and i keep faith. Luc
  18. C.T failed today (french MOT). Only brakes problem : - front slight difference left 250 daN / right 210 daN - rear significant difference left 205 daN / right 75 daN - hanbrake good rear brake cylinders are new, bled 5 times... shoe pads are nice and i sand paper them + drums cleaned What could it be?
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