Amy Wade

Scraped in with the last 2 figure number. Please be kind to entry number 99, the team will be RBRR virgins. Now to replace the gearbox, propshaft, diff, brakes, clutch, clutch hydraulics, shocks etc...

Adding a decent description, location, the price & photos to your ad will help you sell your car.

You mustn't scrap the car before transferring the registration, if you do the registration number will be lost. Unfortunately you will need to get an MOT on it before you can transfer the number to another vehicle or retention certificate. https://www.gov.uk/personalised-vehicle-registration-numbers/take-private-number-off

Once my Spitfire is back on the road I'll be signing up for it.

I'm interested can you put me down please?

The dash is actually one of the few things that's correct, late model US market Mk3 was the first to get the Instruments in front of the driver.

I would call it a restomod. It also looks like they've completely removed any chance of fitting a soft top or hard top. It's certainly not one I would want & I can't understand why they didn't start with a Mk1 or 2.

Simon Cowell's Mk3 Spitfire has just sold for an eye watering $84k. I wonder if it will have a knock on effect... https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/SIMON-COWELLS-1970-TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-262106

You should be careful irrespective of mileage/number of owners etc. Make sure you take a weak magnet with you, check everywhere you can. With the low mileage one I would also add checking the condition of all of the rubber components, especially the age of the tyres. My Mk3 was a 2 owner car & the tyres were 24 years old & the hoses were solid. As Tim said, go through the brakes as soon as you get the car, the Mk3 only has single circuit brakes, you really don't want brake failure.

It could be worth trying Woolies. https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/

If I get in & get the car ready mine will also be first timer car & crew. Good luck with your entry & hopefully I'll see you at Knebworth 😊

I'm hoping to get my Spitfire ready for the challenge, just got a few jobs to do...

Happy new year, let's look forward to a triumphant 2023 😊🎉✨️

Isn't sitting on a cactus going to be uncomfortable?

Merry Christmas to you 🎄🎅😊 I hope you have a lovely day.

They certainly do sound like a waste of space, looking at his post I think he's got a positive earth car & they've probably fried the regulator and dynamo by swapping the battery leads without knowing what they're doing. They need to be named & shamed.

You're a star, hopefully you'll be able to get him going. If I wasn't 175 miles away I would have popped round to help.

Hi all, There's a chap on Triumph Spitfire owners Facebook page that could benefit from a little help. It looks like he is struggling with health, both his own and his car's.

I seen the photos on Facebook, it's certainly crusty... Good luck with getting it back on the road. Are you going to let us know the colour you've decided before it gets painted?

As others have said, find one with a solid body. I spent a couple of years looking for a Spitfire, one of the things I learned very early in my search was if the door rubs on the top of the B post when you open it & there's no play in the hinges walk away, it will be a massive undertaking to buy it. Also get one with overdrive, it will cost less to buy one with it fitted than the cost of fitting it to a non overdrive car. Good luck with your search and we're always here to give helpful advice.

My Mk3 will be keeping the original 1300 engine. I'll use the 1500 flywheel as I have a NOS Ferodo clutch kit.

There's always the option of finding a spitfire 1500 flywheel & using a matching clutch. It's also worth making sure you have an oil seal on the input shaft, early single rail boxes had a scroll. I'm doing the same conversion on my Mk3 Spitfire, I bought a decomposing 1500 Spitfire and stripped all the bits I need from that. I plan on finishing it over winter, if I find any surprises I'll let you know.

You need to take out the tunnel to get access either way. It's up to you how you do it, it's not the easiest thing taking the box out through the cabin but it saves you removing everything needed to get the engine and gearbox out together.

It might be worth contacting these: http://classicsiliconehoses.uk/

I always use Duckhams Q 20/50