Amy Wade

For events, especially ones closed to just CT members should only be updated here, FB is not the place for organising CT events. FB has its place for chat etc. but if it's relevant to organising events surely this forum should be the only place. P.S. I've jotted this down on a postcard but I'm still waiting for the address to send it. 😉

Is there a prize for the best answer? We will need an address to send in our answers.

Happy New Year

My garage is only suitable for keeping my car in, it's in a block with no power or water. To overcome this I use this place when I want to work on my car. https://thisisyourgarage.com/

This should help. https://www.jegs.com/tech-articles/understanding-camshaft-fundamentals/

It may only be 1.4 PSI, but it can deliver 120 litres/hour. It should be plenty for your car (unless you're filling up ~3 times per hour).

Having had a quick Google search, both Adrian Flux and Footman James say they will insure 17 year old. It certainly wouldn't hurt to contact them.

I was going to say the same but couldn't bring myself to mention the other club on this forum.

It's worth having a copy of old British wiring codes for reference. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.farrellsgarage.com/tech_assets/BritishWiringColours-BS-AU7.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiM_4PO4MqCAxUuX0EAHYehCa4QFnoECBwQAQ&usg=AOvVaw20OqKRepg5CQ_h2QaW1koF

If it's white with a black tracer it could be heated rear window.

BS AU7 & AU7a show black with a white tracer had a few uses, the most likely on yours is a speaker wire.

Great to see a car with such history staying within the club.

If in the US, there are a couple of specialist breakers out there, as this forum tends to be mainly UK, their best bet would probably be posting on the Triumph Spitfire owners Facebook group.

That's good to know, I'm eying up a Mk1 2000 that's been parked up in a barn for a considerable amount of time, I guess it's something I will need to cost into it.

Will your insurance not pay out? As @yorkshire_spam says, try the specialist breakers such as Spitfire Graveyard. If you track some down, they will probably need retrimming. Another option would be to try BB Classics, they do quite a lot of retro seats, make sure you tell them they're for a Spitfire, they need to be narrow enough to clear the hood frame.

I can understand in your situation however if the originals are in serviceable condition, I think it would be spending for the sake of not wanting the money in your bank account.

I would question the need for upgraded con rods, the 1500 is a big bearing engine and doesn't like high revs, personally, I wouldn't bother, the crank flexes too much, if you want to make an engine which would benefit from internals like that, start with an FD engine from a Mk3 Spitfire, it's a better engine for high revs. The 1500 is a lazier but higher torque engine.

I prefer the comfort of a modern but you can't beat the experience of driving a classic.

It looks lovely. As @yorkshire_spam says, drive it,get out and enjoy the fruits of your labour,the car will thank you for it.

A lot would depend on how you're using your car & how many miles you'll be doing every year. The lead in leaded petrol acted as a lubricant, especially for between exhaust valves and seats. Over the years the valves would have gained a certain amount of ongoing protection from the lead and will continue to provide some protection going forward, any damage caused by not running a lead substitute will be seen by the need to adjust the valve clearances more than expected. As the engine will probably need a full rebuild before it gets to 100K, my personal opinion is to not bother with the lead substitute, you'll get hardened seats & all the valves done when you rebuild. If the engine has been rebuilt in the last decade or so, I would be surprised if the previous builder hadn't had the seats done as the cost is negligible when paying for the whole engine being done. With regard to the ethanol in modern petrol, you should be looking to replace all your hoses with R9 hoses & replacing things like your petrol pump diaphragm with a suitable replacement. Don't swap out your working old pump for a brand new one, most of the modern ones are not fit for purpose. I done away with my mechanical pump & have a Hucco electric pump instead. These are my personal opinions, others may advise differently, your best bet is to go with what you're comfortable with.

You'll find it here if you want to play: https://thisisyourgarage.com/

They have a shoulder on the top & expand at the bottom. Here's their promotional video the spark plug ones come with a stepped tap that uses the remains of the original thread as a guide to ensure the insert will be perfectly in line with where it should be.

If you're using a Helicoil (Personally I would never use one for a spark plug thread) break the tang off with pliers.

There's no need to take the head off to repair the spark plug thread, when I was doing engine reconditioning as my day job I would just have the engine positioned so the piston is down the bore enough to be safe and the valves are closed. Keep plenty of grease packed into the flutes of the tap and the swarf will stick to it. I personally wouldn't use a Helicoil, my choice would be a Würth Time Sert, the kits are expensive & I'd suggest seeing if your engine reconditioner has them.

That's about £500 too expensive.