molten
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Everything posted by molten
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bobyspit wrote:Molten, did you win these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140753098774?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Hi mate. Yes it was me ;)
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Thanks Clive
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cheers Clive Been quoted 163 quid to supply, ballance, fit all 4 tyres. Dont think this is unreasonable. Scott
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Hi. got some new slot alloys 13" x 5.5" . What is best size Tyre to fit these? Sorry if this sounds like a daft question. Thanks
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Thank John I hope to get the other door card made up this weekend and trial fit. They will both need to come back off to couple up the door locks but need to get lock re-plated. Been quoted £40 to prep and coat door locks and latches in zinc so might take them up on that. Need to get outer door handles pwder coated so when these are done doors should be finished. I have been very fortunate that I am able to do everything myself (so far ;)) and not needed anyone else other than providing seat foams & covers. This has saved me ££££s on the welding alone never mind the painting as well. This not intended to be a show car by any means but I did want to rebuild with new components to a reasonably high standard with a view to keeping. This was initially only intended to be a means to an end. The plan was to complete and sell it to use the money towards a mustang fastback rolling project. But I have really fallen in love with the car and that has helped me keep a high standard. Whoever was to buy this car in the future can rest assured that they would have a complete resto and not just a 'make do' car. Hope to get engine on stand over xmas and start the strip-down. Will get some more pics added soon Cheers all and thanks for the encouragement Scott
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junkuser wrote:What is involved in molding carpet Molten? Sounds interesting but could not find any useful information on the NET. The carpet had a gel backing that when heated with heat gun became pliable and could be shaped/molded and the shape was retained when cooled. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200598379797?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp4712.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D200598379797%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1 The link was the carpet I bought and used. Very good
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few more pics Hope yo get interior complet in Jan. Then onto engine for next 4-6 months with view to getting it on the road at summer :o
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Hello Gents Been a while since I posted on this thread. But been busy sorting out interior and making parts. New carpet cut an fitted in (Bought some gel backed moldable stuff 2 off 1.5m x 1.9 for £30) which was enough to trim out the boot and complete inside the car. Even made my own gearbox cover carpet. New seat foams and seat covers now fitted - lovely to actually sit in the car for the 1st time. Just received custom door covers and made up & fitted drivers door card to new plywood back boards.
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cheers fella's Lancepar - brilliant thanks that is what I need. Presume yours is located to the right of the stearing column? My speedo trip has the little angled bracket (not like yours) on but think this will/could be mounted with footwell lamp similar to yours. Chhers gents. No not desparate bainzy but certainly in need of a little guidence ;)
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rotoflex wrote:Have you got a copy of the owner's manual for that Spitfire? I seem to recall that the light was shown in the picture for "Here is where you put the ignition key to start it". You might also consider connecting the door switches to the horns to create a sort of basic car alarm. Hi Rotoflex, thanks for posting. I have the haynes manual only. It shows a diagram only with the bulb facing downward but cannot make out where?? Think I will just run it near ingnition as you say. Its not that important anyway is it really. cheers
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cheers Alex Anyone got a picture of this light operating? I cannot see where it is meant to be located (as well as speedo trip). Had spotlights on originally behind grill and fog light on rear bumper. Not sure if its worth putting them back in. Dont plan to be doing much night driving anyway, but you never know. I need to get a passenger glove box and support rail. If any of you fella's have one, PM me. Thanks
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Hello Tonight, with the exception of gearbox and horn button, all electrics are working again. A happy chap is me :) Anyone know where: 1) the footwell lamp is secured? 2) Where the speedo trip is secured? Why does the spit have door opening switches - would they be for alarm as pretty useless on convertable? Does the hardtop have a courtesy light? Cheers scott
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4540 wrote:Just read through the whole thread. What a fine set of skills you have there Scott. I doth my cap. Hopefully..........hopefully, someday i can get mine to be of a similar standard. If i could get the bloody thing to run! Thanks Jamie Dont beleive in getting anyone to do something I beleive I could do myself once I have the knowledge and the tools. Working on recovering interior at present - another new venture. Cheers scott
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4535 wrote:Got me thinking wether to spray my herald myself? :-/ I only work part time so could not afford to pay someone to paint it for me. Pretty good finish for 1st paint job. Part time job helps me to work on car though :) Cheers
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another one...
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Hi All Thought I'd post an update as its been a while since I posted on this thread. Anyhoooooooooo With a BIG thanks to Bill (Rarebits), I managed to sort out bulkhead parts in place with grommets and blanking plugs added too. So with the exception of a couple of small bolts, throttle cable and speedo cable, bulkhead is complete. Moved on to recovering dashtop which turned out acceptable but not perfect and today made some windscreen surrounds and glued them in position then fitted the dashtop. All looks so much better. New veneered dash panels fitted back in complete with instruments and electrical conections refitted. Tomorrow is planned to complete electrics and test circuitry with new spade terminal fusebox fitted. Next will be locate drivers glovebox and passenger glovebox support rail. Then carpets install. Few pics for you... Thanks Scott
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Cheers bainzy that is a big help. Ignore my last question on PM. Photo above answers that. Much obliged Scott
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just wondering if anyone has a photo of that top brake line (across bulkhead) routed a better/neater way than in the photo above? Thanks
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pic of brake lines. Think they can be routed a bit neater
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Been a while since I posted any progress on this so here are a few more pics for you Flatted paint back and gave couple more full coats. Tried l/h 1/4 light in to see how it looks. Looks good. Installed front brake lines (dry run). Can anyone say if they are routed correctly?
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Thanks teq Been skiping from one area to another between fund-raisers ;) When the money runs dry (which it tends to until payday comes) its suprising what else you can get on with until monthly funds arrive again ;)) Just had another batch of paint delivered so will be wet-flatting with 800grit to prep for a few more coats and get good even shade all over. With enough paint on I should be able to flat back with some 1500 before some clear laquer (I know its not needed but I already have it so might as well use it)
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1381 wrote:That looks so tidy, it's almost a shame to cover it up with vinyl! yeah - vast improvement. I am sure that with a bit more thought (maybe a second layer) a wooden door card could be made and veneered. Hate to catch it wi mi boot tho :( Put window mech and lock levers in that door tonight for trial run. All went well but the glass track looks to be sticking up a bit high. Apart from that it was pretty simple. I was putting it off as I thought i would have some trouble with glass carrier. Surprising how easu things are when you do them the correct way isnt it? Not like when i took them out! >:( Cheers
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Cheers Bainzy - a couple of good points there. Already got the laquer so might as well use it - or not - hmmmmmm :-/ Anyway to relieve some of the monotony, and whilst I am not a million miles away from getting interior back in, I thought I would turn to interior - door pads in particular. The original crappy hardboard ones are well past their best so I decided to remove the old vinyl and foam and use the cardd as a template to make new ones with 3.6mm ply. Far more superior to h/board and more rigid. I have bought a cream/white with burgundy piping used seat covers. Thought it would look good aginst the dark blue. Not everyones cup of tea I am sure but didnt want the run of the mill look. I plan to make my own door pads including two-tone (cream/white & burgundy) vinyl covers for door pads - burgundy at bottom. My new carpet is beige in colour with maroon piping so should look ok together - I hope. Anyway pics for you, 1 of old card & of new door card below. Will do other during the week. Cheers
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3155 wrote:Wow you guys realy geting on with it lookin god , i am just cutting outm my boot floor and chippng away loads of filler in the iner wings and repair the inner boot floor lips , i have a questiona bout the tub how do you manage to support it when you flip it over i realy wanan have it on it's site or upsidedown how did you do this? Hello Simo I made a rottiserie to mount it on and rotate it. [Sorry, link no longer available] Failing this, you could turn it over onto some tyres - onto its side. Cheers scott
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93 wrote:Hi Scott Looking really good. I Don't understand the need to laquer over the top coat. As long as you have put enough paint on, the cellulose paint will polish up like glass. Keep up the good work. Mark Hi Mark You are quite correct here mate but celly paint fades quicker than 2k, the laquer is simply so that the inevitable fading effects the laquer only and not the colour. There may be flaws in my logic but this method seems good for my needs. The only problems may be if stone chips do through to the colour otherwise only future repairs will be to laquer only - i hope ;)