molten
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Everything posted by molten
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2402 wrote:Scott, really man am quite impressed. I really need to get myself to a panel beaters course and painting. It really has saved you a fortune and at the end you can say that you did it. Keep up with the photo's, looking forward to the completion. Chris. Many Thanks Chris. I went on a med cruise on 2nd aug - just back this aft. This is my first project, have never attempted something like this before. In fact before this project, I couldnt even weld. Taught myself on this project. Never painted before neither so just speant a lot of time researching how-to. You're right about saving money mate, I couldnt affort to pay someone to do it and I thought well I dont think its beyond me but I have to say a thanks to forum members for advice and tips. Thanks again for your encouragement chris and I will inded keep the photo's coming. Scott
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Alex wrote:Scott are you going to go over it with a bit of 800/1200 or something before you blow it over again? Just thinking you could remove some orange peal that way...... Yes Alex, (think 800grit whilst I will go over again) thats the plan anyway :o Then 2000 grit before and after laquer. :'( Thanks for the encouragement Roy. I want to do everything posible myself on this car, with the exception of some powder coat in severl bits. Cheers scott
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cheers Alex As I say, not perfect but for 1st paint job - not bad. I managed to get the best finish on the near side bonnet area when I decided to get a little closer about 4 inches - hardly any orange peel unlike other side. At least I will get is right when I blow it back over. Thanks scsott
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couple more (couldnt get them on last post :P)
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bonnet now painted and doors. Put drivers door back on and protected. Unfortunately, I ran out of paint when getting second coat on doors so will def be getting more paiint in few weeks to blow over 2 more coats over all car with other door on and boot fixed in position.
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93 wrote: Hi Scott Sorry for the late reply, I missed the thread somehow. I overpainted it with cellulose a good few weeks after the Bonda primer was applied. I have also used the Bonda on the Vitesse I am rebuilding at the moment. It adheres well to the bare metal and I can only think the reason the top coat has lifted in a couple of spots was because I didn't give the area enough of a key. What top coat have you used, cellulose or 2k? It's looking good. Mark Hi Mark It is cellulose. Delft blue - the ofiginal colour. I put the celly primer on within 24 hrs as recomended so hope the celly primer 'sank' in ok then left a week to harden off properly. Gloss coat approx 4 wks later. Cheers scott Cheers scott
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I think alex is right. I have put a mist coat then 2 full coats on (data sheet says 2 full coats) and have done a little colour sanding on a test area and can see a little thin spot. So... My plan is to get bonnet and doors sprayed on Monday, get them back on the car then use fine scotch pad over all the external surface of the car (except bulkhead) and apply a couple more coats, colour sand then apply clear laquer. I know this might sound like overkill and a lot more work but it will give me piece of mind.
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not sure you will make them out but some of the runs
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a few more
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OK, got a little more progress today. Sorted problems witrh my gun and got some colour on the tub & boot lid. This is my first ever spray job and it is not perfect, got a few runs and seem some areas whith poor coverage. Few pics to look at
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93 wrote:Hi I sprayed cellulose finnish coat directly onto Bonda Zinc, and although I went over it with wet and dry to give what I thought was a good key, several years later the the top coat has started to crack and flake off in a couple of spots, but the Bonda primer is solid. This is where presumably I missed rubbing down. Like you say Bonda is hard and it definitely Helps stop the rust. Mark Hi Mark Can you remember when appling the paint on top of the bonda, was it within the times mentioned above or before 6 hours? Also, was the topcoat cellulose? You got me a little worried now :o Thanks scott
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Now managed to prep and paint bonnet. 2 good coats of bonda zinc (1.5mm tip) & 3 good coats of High build primer (1.7mm tip) This bonda stuff dries very hard and 800 grit bearly touches it when flatting. It also has a window of 6-24 to be topcoated with cellulose or you have to wait 7 days, not got that luxury. Now waiting for hb to harden as I tried to flat off after 1 hr - no good need to wait.
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Alex wrote:I'd be inclined to add more.....its alot simpler to do now than after you've painted the colour coat ;) I agree Alex. I will be priming the boot lid in the morning so think I will go over it a little - might mean a little more flatting though so think I will use 1.4mm tip to keep it to minimum ;) Cheers
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2875 wrote:Just reading this entire thread in awe! Keep going! I'll raise a pint to you when you post the final pics! :) Cheers Brendan I hope to get it finished for next summer thats if it does'nt finish me first :-/ Must admit, I would not want to do all this again. This is my first resto and I feel that I have 'broke its back' just now. Hit a liitle concern today - when flatting back the guide coat on primer, I cut though the HB and exposed some of the zinc coat. Some of the primer must be a little thin in places and not sure if this is fine or should add more primer. Any thoughts on this gents? Cheers scott
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Thanks for the positive comments fella's. I need all the encouragement I can get just now - body prep is mind-numbingly tedious. A little pic of whats under the quilt in front of the bulkhead - had to repaint over POR15, begining to react with UV...
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429 wrote:I have to say that looks great work Scott. Won't be long now before you get the body back on the chassis. :) Believe or not mate the tub is indeed sitting on the chassis! :P
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OK, took a while to get here but finally managed to get some paint on the spit. 2 coats zinc and theyn 3 hb primer. Just wainting now until mid-week fore flatting back (and filling the pin-holes I missed before paint). 800g w&d to flat off, but still need to prime boot & bonnet so will get that done wid-week. Back soon (hopefully) Scott
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Hello Fella's Thanks for your comments - all usefull and helpful. cheers
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Hi Roger My phosy solution is 40%. I have been applying neat to bare metal and the dry residue is then removed with wire wool. Do you think this will need neutralising? Perhaps not as indicated above. Alkaline solution (soda crystals) can be used to wipe off but then another wire wool rub to remove that, but i dont want to put any more water based solution on the treated steel. I have also noted that the area I did yesterday has now started to turn yellow/brown. Likely rust flash. I never dried thouroughly enough yesterday. So will use paper towels & compressed air next time. Top side of bonnet is now 99.9% free of any paint. Only a few small minor rust pitting spots and phosy seems to have dealt with them. Will get back to it tomorrow aft. Thanks
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hello I dont like the idea of rinsing bare steel with water :'( even thou that is the recomended practice. So I plan to neutralise with acetone, then wipe etc for paint. Thanks
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Hello I have stripped my 1500 spit bonnet to bare metal on top (left underside to prime over). Some previous filling had been done as some lazy toad could not be bothered taking small dents out with dolly. Anyhooo, done some metal work on the arches and now preping ready to paint. The top of the bonnet (after being stripped with nitromors) seems to have a dull matt finish to bare metal. Did triumph galvanise or dip bare steel bonnets in some form or metal protection? I have applied some 40% phosphoric acid solution to one wing and a few hours later removed the dry residue with wire wool. Looks ok but seems to remove the dull matt finish mentioned above. I plan to hit the entire top surface of bonnet with phos acid to etch for primer. Can you spot any issues here? Cheers
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couple more photo's. Everyone like photo's :)
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A bit further forward with the resto (not much though). Managed to get a coat of delft blue chassis paint (enamel) on underside and will need another coat tomorrow. A few pics below. Also repaired & refurb'd the door window mechanisms - alfter some minor rust removal I cold galvanised and sprayed with clear wax protection ready to refit. Next is to fit the new O/D mount plate to chassis, turn tub over and bolt down before doing a dry run of doors on, bonnet on, h/top on so I can prep the exterior body for paint. Seems to be taking an eternity this car.... :'( I just want to drive the blasted thing. Long way to go yet...
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3515 wrote:Molten - Great work....just started a mark 3 project myself I have stipped the tub and its being blasted as we speak so am sure there will be some work to do just not sure how much. Quick question on the chasis I assume you completely stipped this. How did you take it back to the bare metal want to save myself the expense of getting this blasted as well Regards Rich Hi Rich I used some twist-knot attachments on angle grinder to strip chassis. As for the upper & lower susp arms, I just rubbed the paint down as the paint was quite reasonable here. I would have had it blasted but did not have the funds at the time. Cheers
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Hi Simo Glad to see your getting on with it. Few quids worth of floor-pan & inner wheel arch there :'( big hole in yr pocket now!! Looks like your tub had gone in exactly the same areas as mine. Be making sure of full weather protection on metal.. I made a simple rotisserie to rotate the tub - http://www.club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1298228615/ Just ready to get some colour on underside + wax then turn back over and bolt down to chassis. Then the tedious bodprep begins :'( Cheers