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molten

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Everything posted by molten

  1. Does the graphogen have any specific and notable benefits or is it another one of those "gimic" ideas?
  2. cliftyhanger wrote: BTW the local engineering shop uses gear oil as assembly lube. Maybe because it withstand higher pressures? Got some automatic transmission fluid (red stuff). That be ok Clive?
  3. AndyV wrote:I use good old STP oil treatment in a 50/50 mix with engine oil. smear on the crank main, big end and thrust bearings, cam bearings, cam lobes and fill/prime the oil pump with it. Mine being a race engine it gets rebuilt every year for the last 12 and the above seems to do the job. Andy If it works for a race engine it should be good enough for me. Cheers Andy All new components going in (except con rods) with new mk3 grind cam from canleys. Thanks Scott Any one got any rebuild tips that they picked up along the way?
  4. Hello Getting ready to rebuild new engine. Can any say if a pre-assembly lube is recomended such as graphogen and if its effective. What alternatives are there? Thanks
  5. Thanks smithy Good new is that it looks like my cards are not oversize afterall then, all though I can't make out the a-post end if door cars due to shadow but presume it to be same as b-post end. Think I will take new seal out and see if door closes and try to figure this out. I was convinced that the door seal should have closed on the door body and not the cars as with modern cars. Any other suggestions welcome. Thanks Scott's
  6. Tough crowd.. Ok how about a measurements from door pad to radius at the a-post side of the door?
  7. Cheers gents. If your ever up near warrington, a beer on me is mandatory thanks Scott
  8. Cheers gents. If your ever up near warrington, a beer on me is mandatory thanks Scott
  9. No problem I just forgot to clarify - my problem is at the A-post. If I pull the door our further it will be proud of the front wing so dont want to go down that route. My best option may be to trim down the new door card (much to my chagrin  :'() So any pics of gap between door radius and door card edge (measurements even better although i think i will have to mod to suit) would be great.
  10. Hello I recently used old door cards to make new ones from 3mm ply. When padded and covered they look fantastic... But When i try to close the door, it binds up in the new door seals. I think that the new door card may now be slghly bigger than the originals and the door seal is sealing against the door card and not the door metal around the card. Any of you fellas got any pictures of the gap around the door card to the edge of the radius on the door. I think I have not left enought room around the door card for the seal to seal against and that is why its binding. Dont fancy correcting them but is the only option so pics welcome. Thanks scott
  11. Hi steve. yes it is one of those I'm after but they are handed and I can't tell if that is the right side or not. If you can confirm if drivers then great.
  12. Hi steve. yes it is one of those I'm after but they are handed and I can't tell if that is the right side or not. If you can confirm if drivers then great.
  13. Hi Sparky. That is the right bit. I just said L shape as I thought that is what you were refering to. I know, 2 wrongs. Dont make a right. :-/ Anyway PM on way. Thanks scott
  14. Hi Sparky. That is the right bit. I just said L shape as I thought that is what you were refering to. I know, 2 wrongs. Dont make a right. :-/ Anyway PM on way. Thanks scott
  15. sparky_spit wrote:I'm back too late tonight to look, but will do in the morning. No worries Sparky. Greatful
  16. sparky_spit wrote:I'm back too late tonight to look, but will do in the morning. No worries Sparky. Greatful
  17. sparky_spit wrote:Just seen this.  I might have one or maybe two, left over from a box of bits I had with my old Spit 1500.  I'll have a look in the shed this evening and get back to you. Just to clarify; do you want outside handle with push button or inside handle with L shaped lever? Hi Sparky Thanks for taking a look. I just want the L shaped lever handle. My drivers door one is too crappy to re-use. Thanks Scott 07928346615
  18. sparky_spit wrote:Just seen this.  I might have one or maybe two, left over from a box of bits I had with my old Spit 1500.  I'll have a look in the shed this evening and get back to you. Just to clarify; do you want outside handle with push button or inside handle with L shaped lever? Hi Sparky Thanks for taking a look. I just want the L shaped lever handle. My drivers door one is too crappy to re-use. Thanks Scott 07928346615
  19. Had my door handles powder coated and reassembled but drivers lever is crap. Anyone have a good spare one lying around? Thanks
  20. Had my door handles powder coated and reassembled but drivers lever is crap. Anyone have a good spare one lying around? Thanks
  21. molten

    Hood pop rivets

    Because the rivet flange lies below the top of the stud, I drilled out and old rivet and used the old rivet flange (flat on one side and domed on the other) as a spacer with done to the topmich the same awe the small washers are used above. Worked a treat Scott
  22. Evening all. Anyone know answer to this question? I am planning to replace the crap plastic one that is on just now, but not sure how to identify correct hub. Want riveted motolita with polished boss/hub. the one that's on feels too big and it is slightly bigger than 14" so think 13" would fit n feel better. Any advice fellas? Thanksgiving's
  23. Hello I received the wheels today and must confess to being somewhat disappointed at their appearance. The castings are all pitted (little air holes in surface. They seem to be unused. Is this how cobra slots were or should the surface be smooth as modern painted alloys are. Disappointed.  :-( Thanks for any thoughts Scott
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