molten
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Everything posted by molten
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Right engine and gearbox now in (need to sort wiring for overdrive). Started to get everything else back under bonnet. Almost bolted carbs and manifolds in then I remembered I had not wrapped the pipes on manifold so had to take back off until heat wrap arrives. Interior almost finished. Spit the missing peice ;)
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184 wrote:It depends on your budget but I did a lot of patching and found myself replacing panels in the end. It's often easier, less time consuming and more importantly - much less soul destroying. We all feel your pain. Fully agree with Craig. Replace the panels. The bonnet is a huge area, one that is looked at with attention. When the car is painted, you'll be glad you did.
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check the column clamp screws first.(just behind dash). Then check the clamp at the base of the column closer to the bulkhead inside the car. Check where the column connects to the steering rack - make sure the bolt is still there :)
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Ok Not updated this thread for ages so thought now would be a good time to do that. Interior (minus a dished 13" motalita wooden wheel) is finished and fitted Canvas hood fitted. This weekend is to see the engine installed back in the car, but tonight I will be fitting gearbox (now that my clutch problem is sorted ;)) Will post pics as and when can.
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Hi Nick My flywheel does have a raised rim. If I had used the original clutch cover (couldnt because of wear on th epreasure plates from bearing), then all would have been ok. The old cover has larger diameter opening and would have fitted around the larger diameter splined boss on the plate. I could have turned the splined diameter down to 1 inch and shortened the boss height but couldnt be bothered really. I will do this later and save plate as a spare. Cheers Scott
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New couch plate arrived today and fitted like a glove!!!!. Trying to save a Tenner cost me £30... lesson learned. Get gearbox back in and install engine in Sunday. cheers all
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The black clutch cover is a 1500 clutch cover manufactured by Quinton Hazel. The 1300 clutch cover seen above does look deeper I must admit but I thing Nos items were. We'll soon see, gulp.
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be carefull you dont bang into anything in there mate - looks a bit tight for space - NOT (envious) :P
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I have ordered another plate today (GCP103) and just hope its not identical to the one I have...Will soon see :-/ The QH clutch cover that I have has a smaller diameter at the pressure finger tips than you can see on MarkB pics above, so willsoon see if this is ok too. Does anyone know if the pressure fingers are pressed down below the spline boss on th edriven plate in operation? Thanks
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the original clutch gear is borg & beck (driven plate and cover) and has a larger diameter opening for the gearbox drive shaft than the new QH cover as noticed by Gordon. The new release bearing fitted is same size as the original, but going off what gordon says above, now makes me wonder about this too. I am going to order the GCP 103AF clutch driven plate to make a direct comparison. I beleive this plate to be exactly same as a typical 1500 plate but with 9 splines, expecting spline boss to have same dimensions. I f the slined boss on this new clutch is dimensionally same then this should work with QH cover. The driven plate (10 splines) I have has a larger diameter on the spline boss and I think that when the bearing presses against the pressure fingers, the fingers will not pass the larger diameter boss. However, If I had a Borg & beck cover as the original, I think it would have been fine but dont want to take any more chances. So much for getting g/box back on. PS: Just checked release bearing on both gearboxes and they are both same size. >:( >:( >:(
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hello fallas. The drive plate is correct way round (says 'flywheel side' on it). Concentrcity measured the may recomended on 1500 repair manual on page 12. DTI is placed on the shoulder of flywheel just outside where the cover plate is bolted. I think there are a few things contributing to this problem with the gap. 1) New unworn clutch plate (increased thickness making clamping pressure fingers move more when cover is tightened) 2) QH cover is not stepped at fix point as originnal - loosig another 1mm (see pics above). 3) Splined boss is white long (longer than typical). Points 1 & 2 mean that more spring movement is occuring on the pressure fingers when tightening cover plate to flywheel. So i loose about 3mm here. I have now shortened the splined boss (and it is still longer than original), refitted and now have 4.5mm between splined boss and back of pressure fingers. This gap will widen as new friction material wears, increasing the gap. What I need to find out is what the gap behind the fingers to the splined boss should be (or should not be less than) so that the gears will still engage in drive. Hope this makes sense :) Thanks
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The friction plate is thicker than thole one but I put that down to being new. Gap behind pressure fingers was fine but when Cover was fully bolted down, the gap was only 1mm. What should gap be? I can file the splines boss down a bit as its a little longer than the original. Would that help? Also the splines boss at the back of the plate (toward flywheel) is not flat like the original. Will this make any difference? Concentricity: check to see how much ovality on the turn of the flywheel. Thanks for help
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Received new clutch cover today so on with fitting the clutch. Put DTI on flywheel (3" from centre) to check driven plate surface run-out. Spec says not to exceed 0.51mm. Actual was 0.3mm so ok there. Concetricity spec : not to exceed 0.100mm. Actual was 1.5mm!!. How do i get this sorted? Will it cause me a major problem? Also, I decided to fit the clutch and have a couple of concerns. The drive plate is not a triumph but is a 10 spline x 7 1/4" (i am using d-type box) used on morris minor 1000 amongst others. The central boss is slightly more proud than the triumph at flywheel side and cover plate side. I torqued up the cover bolts to required spec and noticed that the tips of the pressure plates is about 1mm off the driven plate. Is this normal? Thanks
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Cheers Aaron PM'd him. Lets see..
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Hello Trying to find a good used bell sports exhaust, resonator and central pipe - one like the GT6 twin outlets. Anyone know where one is going could you PM mE? Many Thanks Scott
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Hello I have recently rebuilt my 1500 engine and it is quite a simple engine to strip and rebuild as has been said. I had mine rebored to +.20 and new pistons to match (approx £220) Purchased the much better large journal camshaft with mk3 grind (£90 ish) after surcharge refund from Canleys Crank was reground to +.20 and new matched bearings for big ends and mains (aprox £180) New payen gaskets sets approx £30 Timing chain etc etc etc. I was fortunate to have picked up an unleaded head with less than 1000 miles on for £135 so saved me more money. If you go this route you will have to factor this into your costs. Suffice to say the costs do mount up but i enjoyed the rebuild with some help from members to get valve timing correct - you know who you are ;) Very helpfull guys on here so .. 'If you ask it, it will come' :) Best wishes with the rebuild
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I had same trouble. If the material is quite hard its akward to work. I left them soaking in some boiled water but even when pliable they were still tricky. You will probably still need to use some kind of screwdriver like tool to 'poke & pull' them into position with hair dryer of heat gun nearby for when the material begins to harden up.
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Hello Ready to fit new canvas hood to frame but need some good instructions. Anyone got some? What poppers / studs should be on the base of the hood below the window? Original had black domed push-fittings but when i was at stafford I saw one fitted with female studs fitted under window and couldnt make out why? Anyone got any ideas? Thanks
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Hello If there are any guys who know clutch systems, I could really use your help in this.. I will take some pics of both plates tomorrow an post for feedback. Thanks
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Hello Im hoping i have not made yet another mistake here but can any tell me if clutch driven plate part number HB1313 would be compatable on d-type box going on 1500 engine? I understand this part is also for morris 1000 amongst others such as hillman minx, austin, jowett, cob. http://ie.picclick.com/Borg-Beck-HB-1313-290719100826.html Thanks
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1381 wrote:I think you'll just need a gmail or youtube account, once you're signed in go to this page or just click subscribe above one of the videos. Then whenever you visit youtube.com, any new videos will appear on the homepage for you so you won't have to go looking for them. cheers Scott! :) Cheers Rick Subscribed now - I think :P
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hi rick how do you subscribe? scott
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rotoflex wrote:There's this: http://teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spitenginepanels.htm DAMB, measurements are not correct >:( >:( Here is info from website: AB = *" (i am presuming this to be 1"??) AC = 10 *" AE = 8 1/8" AF = 16 *" EG = 6" FH = 6 *" DI = 7" IJ = 3 *" DL = 16 *" DK= 16 *" But if A-F = 16" D-L = 16" That means the intersecting line F-K/L is 90 degrees and not as shown in the diadram. >:( Can anyone take a couple of measurements for me so that i can get this angle correct? Many Thanks Scott
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rotoflex wrote:There's this: http://teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spitenginepanels.htm DAMB, measurements are not correct >:( >:( Here is info from website: AB = *" (i am presuming this to be 1"??) AC = 10 *" AE = 8 1/8" AF = 16 *" EG = 6" FH = 6 *" DI = 7" IJ = 3 *" DL = 16 *" DK= 16 *" But if A-F = 16" D-L = 16" That means the intersecting line F-K/L is 90 degrees and not as shown in the diadram. >:( Can anyone take a couple of measurements for me so that i can get this angle correct? Many Thanks Scott
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Nice one JensH Thanks Gents - both been really helpful. Scott