molten
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Everything posted by molten
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Nick_Moore wrote:A lot of oil filters on Triumphs drain overnight, meaning that the filter has to refill when you start the engine before the bearings see any oil. Mine's always done that, so I spin the engine over for a few seconds with no choke to pump some oil into the filter before starting the engine. Just don't rev it until the oil light goes out! Thanks Nick
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796 wrote: Hi Scott. Standard T 4/6 engine nok on start up. especially if its been stan,n for a while, Did ye turn it over with plugs oot first, to build press up or turn oil pump with drill first,!!! should be oknoo filters full up, but it will still nok. they all doo. M Hi Marcus No, didn't turn over with plugs out first..Should I have done? Didn't turn oil pump with drill first either. Will that make any difference if done now as I presume you are referring to priming the pump?
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Alex wrote:Did you ave the crank reground or just replace the bearings? Hi Alex Crank reground and new shells.
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7112 wrote:Before you panic, are you sure you tightened all bolts around the manifolds and carbs? Could be as simple as that knocking against the engine block. You sure your rocker covers tight on aswell? I'd check your rockers for wear and the gaps as they may cause knocks. Hope it's something simples! Rockers were set correctly on rebuild. But granted - they should be check again now.
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Hi All I rebuilt the engine with all new parts and it has in the last week developed a 'knock' as it first cranck up. Only last a second until oil is pumped round then is ok. Got oil cooler on too but oil level is ok. Any idea what it can be?
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4526 wrote:Very good news !! Hope mine is on the road around this summer ;) And please do post pictures !! :) Will get some pics tomorrow ;-)
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Whohoooooo. Passed MOT :) Sounds great down the streets. First time on road in ten years. Noticed a few anoying problems though. The untested d-type box works but seems a bit loud so may want strip and service! Just as well as there is an oil leak on the back plate so g/box will need to come off again to sort that. Will prob leave that for winter project or put original box back in!! DAMB! Other thing is that brake mater cylinder seems to be leaking too despite new seals! But its great to drive (heavy on the steering :-))and a milestone. 3 yrs in the restoration and loved every minute of it. Might drive it to tatton classic show tomorrow :)
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Hi Wim I had recently changed my wheel studs only to find out that i did not have to if I had bought the right wheel nuts. To explain: I have set of slot alloys. When i fitted them it seemed that I did not have enough thread length left on the original stud for the new 3/8 wheel nuts (similar to - http://www.midlandwheels.com/Shop/P-1361-1/2-UNF--Taper-Chrome-Wheel-Nut.html) to bite. Not only was there not enough thread on the stud, the new nuts did not centralise the wheel properly. So I chanched the studs all round to M12 x 1.5mm which were land rover Bearmack studs. I sent photos of the wheels to midland wheels and they confirmed that I didnt in fact need to change the studs as the wheel nuts I had were the wrong type. :-/ They confirmed that I really only needed 3/8 sleeved nuts (http://www.midlandwheels.com/Shop/P-1344-12x1.5mm---11/16-Dia.-Sleeve-Nut.html with chamfered washer for my wheels. These nuts would slot through the hole centre when tightened thereby giving much more thread for the nut to torque on. As I had by then changed to the land rover studs, I had to order the ones above instead. When I went to fit them, the new studs turned out to be too long so I had to cut about 4mm of the ends ov every stud >:( especially on the rears. Suffice to say that I now have 12mm studs all round with the correct nuts for my wheels. So what I am trying to say is, would the correct sized sleeved nuts solve the stud length issue for you as I would have done me. If so a set of 3/8 sleeve nuts may be the answer but I am not familiar with the wheel nut hooles on your Rev wheels so cannot say for certain. As said by others, spacers should sort your other wheel issue.
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Preparing for MOT on Saturday. All seem to be working fine although a littlr rough running until car has warmed up (carbs not equally ballanced and jetted properly yet). Received new period number plates this morning so only got saturday morning to put them on. If all goes well I will be driving it to Tatton Park classic car show on sunday :) :) First time its seen a road in 15 years..
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I used DOT5 silicone in mine only because its a new system and it wont blister the paint on the bulkhead when the master cylinder inevitablt leaks ;D
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ferny wrote:Dab it with meths, let it soak in for a little while then burn it off. Please explain ferny. In my book, burning wood makes it disapear ;D
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the wood on the wheel had a nuber of black stains in it, so I put the wire wool to work to remove them (to a degree) and dont want to ruin the thing hen applying laquer/varnish etc.
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Any of you fella's ever recoated the wood on steering wheel? What is best to use? I am pressuming Tina of varnish and paint brush is out ;) Any suggestions as to what to use for lasting durable finish?
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Thanks spider. Let me know how you get on coz this is really anoying...more so for neighbours :)
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Hi Just ned a little electrical know-how. Motolita steering wheel boss activated horn when the boss touches the horn ring :-/ Anyone know what i have done wrong? The earth strap on the knuckle is connected from one side over to the other. I have not put an earth strap from the steering rack to the chassis. Is that my problem? Thanks fella's scott
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2597 wrote:Noticed a little oil puddle from the bottom of the rear engine plate :( Dont want to have to pull the gearbox off to tighten the plate bolts (hoping gasket not need replacing). Obviously this only occured during the last couple days when engine began running (under pressure). Is it likely that the plate bolts would need further tightening of more the gasket failure or anything else? Great to have the car running but dont like to see it 'bleeding' :( Oil puddle sorted. Seems the oil cooler hose was a little loose on the sandwch plate. Seems to be ok now. Will keep checking to see. MOT planned for end of may ;D cant wait. Will still need some work after MOT but at least I will be able to drive it ;)
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Well filled up new brake lines with dot5 fluid today and the clutch. piped up the fuel tank and poured some fuel in the tank. Clutch worked fine and I actualy drove the car (albeit only a few yards) forward and reverse. Great feeling.
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sparky_spit wrote:Hi Scott - I'm interested to see your results as your engine is very similar to my, as yet still unfinished, 1500. I'd be very interested to see what advance curve you end up using to match the Mk3 camshaft and HS4s with AAQ/yellow springs. Mike Hi Mike Yes, i remember you mentioning similarities. Ahh, just noticed you mention yellow springs. I havent put those in mine. What is the advantage with yelloe springs Mike? Rolling road wont be for a while. But as soon as it has MOT, it will be on its way to RR though. cheers
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Noticed a little oil puddle from the bottom of the rear engine plate :( Dont want to have to pull the gearbox off to tighten the plate bolts (hoping gasket not need replacing). Obviously this only occured during the last couple days when engine began running (under pressure). Is it likely that the plate bolts would need further tightening of more the gasket failure or anything else? Great to have the car running but dont like to see it 'bleeding' :(
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There is a place that does mini's in burnley but was hoping someone could recommend something a bit closer to WA3. wILL KEEP GOOGLING. Just wanted to find a place than new how to tune HS4 carbs so they are not charging me whilst they learn about the carb!!
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Hello all. First, want to say thanks to Gt6Craig who helped ballancing carbs yesterday. Car is running well enough to get to a rolling road soon. Anyone know a good station near warrington/wigan area that knows the HS4 carbs well? Thanks scott
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Sorted. Big thanks gents. No longer glowing. :) Noticed that the throttle return spring is missing too and the throttle not returning quickly enough. Any tips for ballancing carbs? Thanks johnd. mikeyb- where is the damned fuel mixture screw??
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JohnD wrote: Been there, mine glowed in the dark and it wsn't the reactor next door. Ignition is retarded too far. Fuel is burning as it leaves the chambers - it should have burnt before that! John Thanks john so not likey to be anything to do with valve timing then? As that was my grey area? If fuel is burning as its leaving the pots, VT may be in error-yes? Is it a case of simply turning the dizzy- basically (not that simple).? I was thinking same as mikeb.
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1381 wrote:Doesn't sound normal. Are you sure the ignition and valve timing is correct? Can you check the idle advance with a strobe? Hi rick Yeh, gonna do that tomorrow. Would even incorrect idle advance have such a drastic effect? If valve timing was wrong would it make the pipes glow so hot? Not a clue on this?
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SPITTING FIRE INDEED!!! Car has stainless 4-2-1 manifolds that are heat-wrapped. I was almost frightened to death when I noticed the manifolds literally glowing bright red all way to single pipe. The heat wrap was also glowing bright red!! Is this normal? Despatately need someone in the know to reply here ASAP please. Thanks scott