molten
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Everything posted by molten
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Today i stripped out the seats and gearbox cover and removed rhe gearbox. The oil that was only installed a few months ago, was metalic upon draining. What I found was 1) roller bearing housing split in half. 2) mainshaft tip has serious wear where roller bearings contact. 3) roller bearings worn to match wear on mainshaft tip (like a stretched teardrop). 4) sincro face wear at 4th gear. 5) Bush wear on central rail. Layshaft seams ok Will post pick of mainshaft tip wear for feedback as replcemwnt shaft may make rebuild pointless costwise unless i can pick up a cheap d-type mainshaft!! Here we go again
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Out of curiosity, is there anyone recomended up north (warrington area or nearby)? Just in case I struggle with my rebuild. Thanks
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Thanks for your advice clive. I have a non overdrive single rail spare box. Are there any 'same' parts used in this box that will be ok on a threerail box or are they not interchangeable? Thanks scott
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Thanks fellas. I am sure your people skills are fine when talking to people and not typing to them Nick ;) My 3 rail box just seems to be making some type of noise like a scraping noise which makes me thing 'release bearing' as has been said. But i am noticing a smell that smells a little like waxoyl and that doesnt sound like release bearing. Bit disapointed really as all the bench tests on this box were fine and O/D works fine. I am tempted to bite the bullet and buy a j-type box but dont want to fall foul of this type of thing with another box, which is quite possible. This leads me to thought of buying a rebuild kit for 3 rail O/D box from paddocks or the like and just rebuild the damb thing. I am pretty good with mechanicals but never rebuilt one of these boxes before... How difficult is it to strip out and rebuild? :-/
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Cheers guys will look into the possibility of renewing the bearings and the feasibility of exchanging the main shaft too cheers guys. Don't like to hear the word 'no' even when its true ;) Just raises a challenge to me...
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Nick_Jones wrote:Short answer: no. Longer answer: still no Nick You need to brush up on your people skills Nick :P Thanks. Want to look onto my 3 rail d-type box as it making a little noise whilst driving. Anyone know what I might fondbthat would explain the noise? Cheers
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Just want to know if this is possible or if its not worth doing even if it is possible? Thoughts welcome Thanks
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Well, I have had a few time wasters looking at the car but a genuine buyer arrived today and immediately fell in love with the car and everything about it. But sadly, at 6 foot 2 inches tall, his eyeline was level with the top of the screen frame so he would not be able to drive it comfortably. He came to buy. Loved the spec. Sadly, not to be. So my question is how do you taller gejts such as big chris drive theirs??
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Hi Andy Sorry I am late replying. I paid a lot for some high quality guns but they just would not seem to work for me so as Craig said, I used a 'dirt cheap' gun, and experimented with pressure, pass speed until I found the right technique and gun/pressure settings for the equipment I had. I then practiced on paper taped in the garage wall (lots of it). Craig put on probably double what I put on to allow for cutting & polishing and has got some great results. As craig says its all in the prep work. Don't ever rush (as that's the tendancy in the beginning) and make a point of being meticulous on finish at every coat and you will be very happy with your results. Cheers
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Well the time has come to get ready to put the spitfire up for sale. Hwere are some photos of what the car looks like now: http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C420964 Thanks to all on the forum who helped and advised over this restoration. Big Thanks to Craig Clavin (GT6Craig). Cometh the Mustang Fastback ;)
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I don't see this part listed anywhere. Closest thing is the front seal track for the soft top nut it is curved. any suggestions? Thanks scott
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I don't see this part listed anywhere. Closest thing is the front seal track for the soft top nut it is curved. any suggestions? Thanks scott
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Hi anyone know where I can get some hardtop door seal channel for 1500 spitfire? This is the bit that is welded to the b-post part of the hardtop, if that makes sense. Tried al the usual suppliers-dont seem to show any on their diagrams. Cheers
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Hi anyone know where I can get some hardtop door seal channel for 1500 spitfire? This is the bit that is welded to the b-post part of the hardtop, if that makes sense. Tried al the usual suppliers-dont seem to show any on their diagrams. Cheers
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I used freelander ones but had coarse splines. The couse splines effectively cut their own groove when the were pressed home. When torqued the studs wont be going anywhere. However, make sure that you know whast type of nut you want for your stud!!! I have slot alloys so needed a sleeved nut with shamfered washer..Which meant I had to cut down each stud - and as said they are made of hard stuff. I used bearmach studs. Sleeved nuts meant that there is more thread availible as the nuts slot into the lug whole and over the thread instead on conventional nuts that use a shamfer to 'so-called' centralise the wheel when tightened. Hope this makes sense :P
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184 wrote:Where Rob keeps his Spit is only 2mins away. If we are having a Triumph party let me know! HEYUP craig ;) wife has just booked a weeks cruise holiday just when rob was about to help! she can be so inconsiderate at times ;) so will have to sort something else out. Triumph party had a nice ring to it too mate :)
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bobyspit wrote:Molten, I am down in Eccles Manchester in the beginning of August only for a few days if you can come round with the car, Ill take a gander Would you be visiting me old mate craig by any chance :) But yes will do mate. Thanks PM your mobile number so I can sort something out with you.
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http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005596 Throttle control lever shows the lever (UKC3009)to the front whereas mine is to the rear!! would this have any adverse effect?
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I have noticed that when I tighten the throttle spindle clamp nuts, it seems to effect the amount of air comming into the carbs. Should this happen? I thought they merely clamped on the spindle! Cheers guys
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[quote=1381]Probably not what you want to hear Scott, but you really need to learn how to do it yourself....quote] I agree with you there Rick. :-/
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No up and down movement. Just play on side-to-side when turning steering wheel.[sub][/sub] Looking at other posts abo e it would seem that the UJ could be the culprit. May be right as this was not replaced on rebuid!
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Hi all. Fine day for a drive ;-) Been trying to get my carbs running better and seemed to have made them worse :( Thing is I am not sure why they are worse. Is there anyone near warrington/haydock who knows how to set these carbs up properly cos even with manual I don't seem to be getting anywhere!! Front carb is sucking twice as much air as rear one but I don't know how to ballance properly. Can anyone nearby help? WA33SA is post code in case there is someone knowledgable nearby :o
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Hi Fellas Seem to have some play in the steering column (ie steering wheel moves several degrees before affecting steering). Anyone know what to do to remove this or is rack the likely culprit?? Thanks scott
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michael_charlton wrote:The Fram filters have the non drain flaps and can be obtained from any good stockist We pay around £2.20 and mine is on a sandwich plate for the cooler That seems like a cheap price. Where do you get them from?
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2402 wrote:Molten, Nick moore has hit the nail on the head I think.What I did was buy a oil filter adaptor and fitted K&N oil filters. They are top quality, have a larger capacity but more importantly they have a proper anti leak back seal. The adapter is a couple of quid, all it does is screws into the threads from the engine side but has larger threads for the filter. Chris. Hey Chris Where can I purchase these items you used fella? Will adapter still fit with thermostatic sandwich plate? Thanks Mate