molten
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Everything posted by molten
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1317 wrote:Scott, The worst thing about mixing the brakes that way is there will probably be a greater tendency to lock the rear wheels on hard braking. You won't be the first to have done this though. Perhaps the best way to re-balance things, if you find you need to, would be to find a more effective front friction material. Cheers, Paul Cheers Paul I will bear this in mind for future. Just got new standard pads on the new front discs so not sure if it will stop anyway :) I have heared that mintex do a pretty good grade of pads. What other good pad manufacturers are recomended? Cheers Scott
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Hi Paul I haver not double checked yet but think the fronts are standard 1500 as I purchased new discs which seem a little smaller than the dust sheilds so look correct. Unless I am overlooking some obvious detail, I presume this set-up (GT6 rear brakes & standard 1500 fronts) should be fine on normal road going car - perhaps rears might be a bit more effective- maybe?. I am also presuming (hoping) that i do not have to match up the fronts. If I am wrong, someone please tell me & why. If all is cleared up with brakes, I will finally be able to move on and get chassis rolling again over the next week. Thanks to all for your comments. Cheers
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1317 wrote:Scott, 203mm is very close to 8". Is there a chance your car has GT6 rear brakes? Good luck, Paul Hi Paul That is a very good question. I didn't know they were different size :-/. The PO said that the car had a GT6 chassis (difference?) So perhaps it may have GT6 rear brakes?? I am not sure. What is the difference (other than hub size that is) between GT6 brakes and 1500 spit. Logical difference would be increased surface area if hubs are 8". If they are GT6 brakes then at least braking should be a little improved :P Cheers
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Hi Fella's Looks like I may have spoken to soon. I did find the picture of the hub mentioned above in the haynes manual, but i cannot read it clearly. I did however come across an inner hub diameter which should be 7" (178mm). Great I thought... until i measured the inner diameter which measured 203mm??? Likely these could be original 76' drums and may have worn to some degree but surely not to this extent as the shoes still have 5mm on them. So could I ask a favour form anyone with a 1500 spit? If anyone is currently putting drums back on their spit could you possibly measure the inner diameter of your brake drum and get back to me? Thanks as ever
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Many Thanks gents This info should give me something to go off. My Haynes (must be different revision?)manual on p197 doesn't show a hub and the surface of the hub was quite rusted and I can only just make out the 'qualcast' impresion in the casting. So the maximum internal diameter should at least allow me to see if my hubs, are 'past it', though paonted up they look pretty good :) Thanks again Watch this space...
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Hello Wilbo. Cant find anything on hubs themselves (qualcast) nor even searching tinterweb so if anyone knows the wear limit on brake hubs, i'd be greatfull Many Thanks Scott
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Thanks Whats the minimum thickness spec on the drum? Scott
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Hello Not much progress recently. Funds running low so turned my attention to rear brake hubs. These had plenty rust on them so were de-rusted and inspected. One of the drums have some pitting on the brake surface and some wear near the edge of the hub - couple of pics, one is close-up. When are the hubs 'past it'? When they are like this or would you say these are servicable? Cheers fella's.
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2402 wrote:Fiddly job, just take your time and have beers after you finish hitting things with hammers. You'll get it the second time. Chris. Hi Chris Yeah, you're right. I found the knack on the 2nd one, which took me 10 mins max - sound familiar? Scott
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What a CRAP DAY. My day off today and UJ turned up in post - great me thought - get UJ's on halfshafts. Went in garage and was welcomed by a nice large pool pool of water on my floor - garage roof leak - great, so swept holding water off top of roof and off I went to B&Q for some emergency repair mastic. Rip-off that place lately - even worse with 20% VAT!!! Anywhooo, repaired roof - now onto UJ's only to completely knacker up 2 of the bearing cups on one of the UJ >:( & >:( & >:( again. A needle roller must have dropped down when fitting and sat so as to stop me from pressing caps fully home so that circlip could be fitted. These cups were that tight, it has taken me ages to get them back out. So will have to get another flamin' UJ now - fed-up All this made even worse as wife has not got me my wid-week beers in >:( How you supposed to rebuild a spitfire with no mid-week beers I asks you?? Back when I have calmed down.
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Just waiting for new UJ's & rear diff polybushes for driveshafts so getting ready to get shafts back on chassis. I have bought some greasable UJ's instead of sealed ones. Not sure if I should have bought sealed???
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2907 wrote:Hi Molton, I certainly need to invest in some POR 15, pics are looking good. Also noticed you have a door gap stay. Was this a bolt on type or did you weld a bar in. Nearly ready to remove my tub now, so your pics are helping.Cheers, Roger. Hi Roger POR15 does not seem to like going on smooth or clean metal. Better adhesive properies directly on rust - what its intended for. Prepa clean/smooth metal with POR15 metal ready first (or 'rough-up' to key) - time consuming though necessary. I learned this after por15 flaked of clean metal after a knock - Grrrrr. Door gap stay was quickly made with a couple of lengths of steel tubing (I have one on each side to hold body as much as possible when off the chassis) welded onto some 100mm x 125m x 5mm flat plate then cut another flatplate same size. Drilled couple of holes for bolts. Welded 2 nuts on either end and simple clamped up on the seams of the door. Pic bellow might give better idea. I made two of these for collecting a secong body tub which turned out to be crap!! Cheers Molten
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2597 wrote: Cheers Clive Thought so but just checkin'. If the bearing caps are not present (if block only) will the spifire caps be ok to use on doly block? Thanks Comments from seller of doly block "The block looks good with very little sign of bore wear, the engine comes with crank, pistons, conrods, bearing caps etc, but has been dismantled. The deck is also good." So if midget engine option fails then this should do nicely with correct MK3 cam, as long as crank caps can be identified. So not beaten....just yet 8)
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2907 wrote:Hi Molten, I see you have used POR 15 on the chassis, but what are you using for the springs,and calipers and engine? I am a bit further behind than you and just want to get some advice as the pictures look good. Roger Hi Roger Initially i simply painted springs with blue smoothrite on the springs with the intention of overcoating with a couple of coats of clear por15. Calipers; I used some leftover engine enamel and intend over painting with clear por15. Plans with springs changed slightly when i picked up a pair of now front shocks with lowered coil springs (moss's TT4301). These are red coated so think I will be changing caliper to aluminum colour. See pics (old wheels attached to get idea of height) Hope this helps Cheers
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Cheers Colin & Clive Just want to be absolutely certain before parting with any cash. Lets hope I can get the MG engine and save a lot of hassle. Cheers gents Go easy on the beers this evening :X
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cliftyhanger wrote:Identical block. No worries. Check it has the bearing caps in place if it is just a block, more likely it is a short engine with crank/pistons already in. Cheers Clive Thought so but just checkin'. If the bearing caps are not present (if block only) will the spifire caps be ok to use on doly block? Thanks
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Right...Been thinking (always dangerous for me) ;D If I cannot obtain the other 1500 midget engine mentioned earlier, I may be able to put hands on a 1500 'doly' block, which i am informed is same lump. Is there anything I should be wary of/considering/or be aware of with this doly block option? Thanks for any tips/pointers Molten
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Thanks gents I was expecting that response as I was thinking the same. I have a chance of a full engine (maybe free of charge too), i think it may be from MG midget which i beleive to be same engine so think i will go this route. I have not yet examined the head from the original motor (came to me dismantled) but if all is ok with it then may be good for a little porting experiment. The saga continues...
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Hello Waiting for parts (and more funds) so thought I would take a closser look atr the engine. This engine has sat in the dry with the head off for approx 10 years so was interested to see the state of itSo cleaned off the block and removed some ancilliary parts. After cleaning of the block deck and piston crowns 1st, i noticed that there was some pitting on no 4 piston crown. I also noticed pitting on the deck surface between 2 & 3 which looks a bit like the old corrosion around the waterways. I have checked bore dims and all seem to be around spec (73.7mm) although I can feel the ridges on top of each cylinder. Not sure if i will be resuing this motor but the deck surface pitting and bore ridges have me looking negative about this block so would welcome your opinions. Many Thanks
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2841 wrote:Hi Molten I like it, maybe if you sprayed the springs red and shocks silver, could look nice, in picture 51, what are the bolts sticking out of the rear of the flange? thanks Alex Hi Alex Springs are now red Moss uprated springs and standard black shocks (i will get a pic on here soon) The bolts on the rear flange (pic 51)are disc retaining bolts to keep paint out of threads. Cheers
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Never done anything like this before so I wlcome your thoughts, comments & advice - no matter how critical :-/ :-/ Anyway, new (used) chassis was taken back to bare metal, prepered and 2 healthy coats of POR15 Front suspension rebuild was started - all new fasteners and polybushes. Calipers refurbished and aia used some leftover engine paint to coat them but to be honest, I think I have made a mistake with the colour red so may overcoat in aluminum colour as its starting to resemble "Optimus Prime" (the main 'goodie' from Transformers movie for those who are wondering) Front springs have now been changed for pair of red Moss' slightly lowered fast road springs and red calipers dont look too bad together but will still likely change to aluminum colour. A few more imiges attached for your 'amusement', sorry I mean thoughts.... :X Cheers molten
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Floors were needing some work so cut out old metal and welded new in. Same with boot floor. All strengthening work was completed whilst tub was still on body. Once the body was completed (almost) the body tub was removed so as full extent of chassis could be seen. Repairable but not good. Front xmember rotten through upto and well into pivot boxes and strengthening struts as seen in pic.. Rest of chassis ok. I managed to pick up a very good chassis for £40 from fleabay, so of in mates truck to collect. Will add more pics when I can get them off my phone. Back soon Molten
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Rear inner wings were done near rear valance, whilst wings off. Drivers sill didnt look right at bottom of door - gap 'huge' as per pic. After mulling over why this gap was present, I could only think that a repair had been done on bulkhead behing cill radius - Correct, so cut out around old repair and butt-welded new metal back in. Inner sill ok but strengtheners shot-at - off they came and new one put in plus new lower A-post panels, and new outer sills. To be Continued......
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Right, been wanting to do this but the number of photo's involved put me off uptil now. Got the bullit in my teeth and am biting down on it as I type.... Here goes... Car as I bought it in March this year. (dont ask why i parted with money for this but i did - £255). The stripdown begins: Blister on rear wheelarch flares went straight through to inner-outer arch on both sides = rear wings off. Just as well as primer on bottom of wings hid the bodge 'overplating'.