clutch disengagement problem

[tonypy2]

Having completed an automatic to manual overdrive conversion I'm still trying to iron out a few problems.

I've been having difficulty selecting first or second which was diagnosed as clutch drag - just to give a little backrgound I have the correct bearing carrier fitted, with no wear in the groove, I've turned the fork release pins, fitted a new fork pin, cross shaft bushes and new clevis pins.

By the time I had fitted the exhausts on my back I'd had enough and drove it to my local garage for them to re-fit and seal the exhaust and bleed the clutch again.

The car has come back with great gear selection but I note that they've shimmed the slave cylinder forward with washers - isn't this a ineffective "bodge" - could it also be shortening the life of the release bearing?

I've since investigated the problem further and found quite a bit of play in the hole on the pedal lever that mates to the master cylinder - despite a new clevis pin.  I'm assuming I'll need to remove the pedal box and weld up the hole and drill out again to 5/16, in the hope that this will solve the problem.

Many thanks - any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Tony

[bobble350]

The modified release bearing is supposed to allow a little eccentricity to stop clutch judder. The early boxes had a short nose piece for the carrier to slide on and it was thought that the carrier was cockling over and hanging up on this. The later long noses can still do it, and one thought is that the clearence to the carrier is too tight and as the grease gets contaminated with clutch dust it binds.
The best way to avoid problems is to accurately locate the gearbox onto the mounting plate with dowels to ensure it is central.

One last thing Tony, you have got the bleed nipple on the slave at the top? The ROM incorrectly shows it at the bottom! The nipple is off the vertical and some advise unbolting the slave and turning to get every last bubble of air out, but I found that this made no difference.

Mark.