Chris_68
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Everything posted by Chris_68
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Hello, The special tool is the way to go, maybe you can borrow or rent from another forum member. I did my own after trying with a three legged puller. I had to use some heat to remove the hub, for the bearing housing I had to put the nut on the axle to protect the threads and slam it to a piece of wood. Saw to late that others replied.. Good luck Chris
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From JohnD that even I could follow. Regarding the equal lift, with crancshaft at TDC set the degree wheel to zero, then rotate to 110 degrees ATDC and with no chain on the camshaft rotate cam until you have equal lift on 7 and 8, there you have 110 degrees. Put the big sprocket plus chain on it. Recheck everything so you have equal lift at110, go for a cup of tea and check again a couple of times... It might be a good idea to set a degree or two earlier, I have a duplex chain but will set it slightly less than 110. /Chris
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Hi gurus, I am trying to put together the rockers but I'm having issues with the alignment. A couple of the arms are slightly wider (0.2mm) than the rest but even by move them around I can't see how this would help? Is this the way it is supposed to be, some of the rockers are spot on but others not. Yes I know I should have taken more photos when I disassembled... Thank you for advice, /Chris
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Hi, I forgot to mention that it appeared to be the same with my shocks, one of them was older and didn't go back as easy as the other one when they had been compressed. If I were you would change the shock as well. /Chris
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Hi, I had the same issue and the same causes as already mentioned, inspect the rubber bushes between the blades (if they still exist). I had a problem with the rubber pad in the pivot box was squashed to one side. /Chris
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Hi! I had a similar problem with my rear suspension that it leaned to one side. I haven't put everything back yet so I am not entirely sure what was the problem but I noticed two things: One of the dampers was really shot and I guess it couldn't extend properly again after a compression, the other thing was the rubber pad that is placed between the spring and the box, had ended up a bit to the side of the spring so putting pressure on one side of the spring. You're having a new spring so less likely but could be worth checking. If I by lifting one side of the rear levelled out the difference and went for a ride then or me it was fairly alright until I had a few bumps in the road so the shocks compressed. Also measure the length if the axles so they are the same. /Chris
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Hi I found my old spacer tube and if anyone need the dimensions they are: Length 46.3mm, OD 11mm ID 8.2mm /Chris
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Thank you John and Alec, I took most of it off in a lathe and the rest with emery cloth, maximum difference between the rods are now 0.04g and pistons 0.06g, and the sum Piston+rod within 0.01g :) I will just polish them a bit, haven't decided it I gonna shot blast them, seems overkill and risking getting sand in my engine, comments? John, I only had a normal chuck on my lathe so made a thick ring out of teflon to clamp the piston and seemed fine. Thanks Chris
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Hello Alec. Thank you for your help, so you kept the same height and just removed from the inside? /Chris
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Dear All!! The weight on my conrods and pistons differed a lot. The conrods are now within a gram or so, but how to deal with the pistons? Do I remove from the skirt or better to take from the gudgeon pin? The weight for pistons+gudgeon pin are: 406 406 408 403. I guess it is more important that 1-4 and 2-3 are matched than all go them 403 grams? Thanks Chris
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Hi All, A follow up question, does anyone know the length and diameter of the 149190 spacer tube ? I guess it is 1.8x0.5" (46x12.7mm) but I have to make a new one so better to be sure, the inner diameter is just slightly bigger than the bolt. Thank you in advance Chris
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Hi A follow up question, I have removed the sump and like to weld a bung in the sump to prepare for any future temp sensor. Are the two most common sizes on the sensor 5/8 UNF and 1/8 NTP? So either I weld one of those in or use a 3/8 NPT-1/8 NPT adapter instead of the oil plug. yes I know it would be better to buy the gauge first.... but I haven't been able to find one and like to finish the sump up with some paint. Chris
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Hi All! I want a companion for my Jaeger oil pressure gauge and I have decided to go for a temperature gauge. Anyone who as an picture of one mounted in a spitfire or know which type it was? Smiths are easier to find, anyone who knows if it is easy to change the dial to Jaeger? Chris
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Hi, I can do nothing but recommend POR15 rust proof and top coat products, I have never used their paint for manifolds but a friend did and it is as new two years later. /Chris
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Hi Thank you. Except for the arb Everything is new in the front. I have removed the trunnions and will check everything. I just don't want to end up with same leaning after going through the rear suspension realising it was something I overlooked. So less likely the leaning was due to the rear spring? If so it should be more worn on that side I guess. Cheers Chris
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Hi! I had problems with a leaning rear on a MKIV and I have always been expecting the rear spring, now I am more convinced it is the damper. With new bushings, teflon buttons, paint and a spring pad then I think the spring is usable. What height shall I expect on the arc, 135mm? Please give input, a new spring with P&P is 200 ukp, and with a welded bolt on the diff it is a bit difficult to change at a later stage... Cheers Chris
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Hi Thank you for your input, the x just indicates that the lift differed slightly between the lobes. I will put the cam back and measure lift vs angle, should have done so before I removed it.... If there is not much left on the base circle then the push rod must be longer or can this me adjusted by the ball pin? Regarding the cam I think I will go for a new cam, haven't decided if will I go for a MKIII or TR5 profile, but still interesting to know what I have. Kind regards Christopher
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Hi, Here are two pictures please comment on the state of the two, is it better to grind the rocker or get new ones? Thank you Chris
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Hello! I had issues with rough idle and an engine that is reluctant to rev and trying to find out what is wrong. I measured the lift on my cam while in engine and it is 0.25x", I also measured the cam by placing it in the lathe and using dial indicator and get the same value on all lobes. I expected the cam to be bad, I will upload a couple of photos later for you to judge but for me it seems fairly ok. The cam is marked Stanpart (in casting) and stamped VT102 at the end, is this a standard cam? Cheers! Chris
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Hi You can find one here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twinmax-Carburettor-Balancer-/281433289997?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4186bb350d I do not know if you can use it without making a venturi tube for the inlet? Anyone tried this or the DIY one using two bottles connected together with a hose and half full of liquid? /Chris
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Hi For my modern car I have used an Autel MD70x series, I used the one where you can update the software to be used with most cars. /Chris
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Hi, Thank you all for your kind help, I will try to get the book by Thomason and the links are very helpful. Now I have to start plating and painting everything with POR15. JensH Yes it is a MKIV I do not live that far from you, have you ever visited the weekly car show for classical cars North of Lund Sweden? Cheers! Chris
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Hello! After some year without doing anything to my triumph I have started to go through the front suspension and clean up the engine bay. I like to restore it as close as possible to original and I wonder if anyone can upload a photo of an original engine bay. My main interest is which parts are painted black and which are plated in zinc or yellow passivated. I have tried to search the forum but haven't (yet) found anything useful. Cheers! Chris