Hogie

Hi Aaron,               if you reverse the polarity of your car - positive earth to negative earth you don;t have to sort out the S/M. What is the history of the original fault. Is it a new S/M - what type. If a High torque then has the pre-engage been wired in correctly (if possible!!) Was it working then stopped. Is the battery up to scratch - low volts may spin the motor but not throw it in. Roger

Here is some 10mm (nearly 3/8 ) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10MM-X-7-5MTR-CUPRO-NICKEL-KUNIFER-BRAKE-FUEL-PIPE-/360131991793?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item53d98a18f1 Roger

I think the Hammerite paint today is a poor reflection on the stuff originally formulated. Rubbish stuff, not worth the money. You need a mildly heat resistant paint that is not affected by brake fluid. A good two pack would work or an acrylic with two pack lacquer/top coat. Roger

Hi Ted,            the standard 'etch' primer does contain phosphoric acid as that is the etchant. Interestingly, the etchant isn't there to stop/remove rusting but to ensure that the primer is 'stuck' to the surface. Very important on reactive surfaces such as Aluminium and its alloys. Roger

Water is recommended to remove the Phosy reside as that is its solvent. Acetone may not work - worth a try though. Having cleaned the surface with the phosy it will be protected from a short dampening of the surface. As mentioned total immersion is quite different from a surface prep. As the Phosy is being used it is being neutralised. In a bucket there is plenty more to take over whereas a surface prep has a limited amout. EG. etch primer stops working fairly quickly as there is only a small amount. Roger