Hogie
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Everything posted by Hogie
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Hi Richard, most primers, zinc or not, are porous and may not protect for a long time. They will give some protection in a dryish climate. Bondarust primer (aerosol or brush) is non-porous and should protect better than most and is a good base for other paints. Roger
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excellent - keep smiling Roger
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Spot on - give the man a banana. After making the animation the TW's were noticed to be missing - too late. Screams of anguish. All the other replies were right but not the one I was thinking of - so you were wrong. Roger
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TRy inside the engine - early on. Roger
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Nope
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Nope
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Nope
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You silly boy - inside the engine. Roger
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That was knocked up by Arthur Williams, a cornishman living in Germany - very clever chap. Did you spot the bits that are missing. Roger
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If they are not the manufacturer then they do not have a reputation to keep intact. Steer clear unles you need cheap tools to bodge with. Roger
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As John suggests - you haven't actually got a problem. Roger
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You don;t want too much rust as that will keep growing under pain t ect. However good old muck is another issue. If you use it it will get mucky - more use more muckier. My 4A when first put on the road it looked like a new pin and that first year (in fact first week) I won a cup or two. However 150,000miles later that would be impossible to acheive. So keep it clean were/when possible but drive it and enjoy it. Roger
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Hi Mike, if you look around all the forums the answer to oil/grease for the TRunnions will be the same as what oil to put in the overdrive. A thick oil will work. A good grease will work. A semi liquid grease will work. A water resistant grease will work. Don't use anything that is a GL5 type lubricant as it may damage the TRunnion. Is your TRunnion oil tight at the bottom? Oils are not normally water resistant. People think that as oil is runny it will keep the pressure faces constantly lubricated - sadly this is not so. It will get squeezed away, and possibly easier than a good grease. I use a grease and re-apply every year. Every third year I take it all apart for a good clean, and start again. Roger
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Hi Alec, it does. The 5&6's had the anti-rotation pin but I feel the carrier (PhosyBronze not steel) works better without it. Roger
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Hi Jason, the early TR's did not have the anti-rotation pin and did have the PhosyBronze carrier; and they probably did rotate. However they always seemed to work better than the TR6 with the steel carrier. For whatever reason I have always found that the bearing is stiff to rotate within itself. Here is the Moss picture with components and all looks very simple. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=2487#15 Roger
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12mm cross bolt !! What is the diameter of the cross shaft? Roger
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Hi Jason, when you have it apart have a look at the fork taper pin - replace this as their life is interesting - consider putting in the extra cross bolt to help the taper pin. Roger
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Ah yes - the outer casing rubber sleeve. Do we know why TRiumph rubber parts are rubbish. Roger
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I seem to remeber that the hold in current was close to 1amp. The relay may well be TRiumph belt and braces and dispensed with on later versions. Be careful with the rubber boot. My last replacement (about 10 years ago) was soooo stiff that it held the O/D in when it should have been disengaged. reversing was interesting but thankfully uneventful. The finger of a decent Marigold would substitute nicely. Roger
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Don;t over do any stress on the knee, follow the physio advice, but keep it moving. My mate had it done in mid January and he is back at work, up and down ladders and recovering well. Fingers crossed for you. Roger
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Hi Folks, great news - my co-pilot Russell started back to work today. Two daytime flights (there and back) to get him settled in. The second op did the trick and the leg and back have been pain free ever since. Although it took two ops to get it sorted the surgeon explained that this was a better option than opening up a big hole in his back and sending people in. The recovery process is much speedier with a small access hole. The NHS did very well. Roll on the RBRR Roger
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....surely the red bulb holder isn't earthed - is it!! Roger
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If a reasonably good looking chromed bumper rusts over fairly quickly then the plating is not good and nothing will really help. Get them copper/nickel/chrome plated. S/S bumpers sound good but they do not have the deep shine that quality chrome has. Also if you have a deep scratch/score then you will have to do some serious blend/polishing which will leave a distorted surface. Chrome bumpers can be repaired easily by stripping and replaying. Roger
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If a reasonably good looking chromed bumper rusts over fairly quickly then the plating is not good and nothing will really help. Get them copper/nickel/chrome plated. S/S bumpers sound good but they do not have the deep shine that quality chrome has. Also if you have a deep scratch/score then you will have to do some serious blend/polishing which will leave a distorted surface. Chrome bumpers can be repaired easily by stripping and replaying. Roger
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Hi Alec, yes, but not finned. The one being sold by Tony is a souped up version for go-faster sports. Roger
