Hogie

Hi Richard,                 the wraping is rather tracor like and is a possible fire hazard - trapped oil/grease setting fire etc . The ceramic is much easier on the eye but as it is so thin has a limited effect. I have my TR4A ex-TRactor manifold ceramic coated - one layer inside and two outside. The pipes still look clean after 10 years use but as for reducing the engine bay heat - maybe a few degrees but nothing to get excited about.   There was more wrong with the shuttle than its basic shape. Some of the subcontractors should be hung. Roger

The first spark plugs of various shapes and sizes came from Europe. It may have happened that 'Lodge' followed suit to have a bigger market. Roger

Hi Paul,          not sure what their numbering is. This is mine - 'C' type  http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/s.....t-brakes-03e05b.html Roger

Hi Paul,             I split mine on the TR4A when fitting the ECB vented discs. The instructions stated to use 55-60lbs/ft. However the supplied bolts were made of chewing gum and one started to stretch (ever so much). I refitted an original bolt and put in 50lbs/ft. That was a long time ago with no problems. Roger

If the wiper motor is similar to the TR motors then the +12v feed is fixed (on) and it is the earth that is broken by the switch. The self park simply continues the earth - through an internal wiper strip. Roger

Hi Bruce,               the wipers run OK when working (at both speeds or is it one speed) They turn on OK. It is the turning off that causes the problem. Try operating the wipers without the switch - disconnect the wires and link direct to the battery through a fuse and see if it pops. The two speed switch is a little bit complicated inside and could fail (sort of) - not sure about the single speed switch. Because the wiper motor has windings it will produce a back EMF when switched off. This shouldn't be big enough to affect a 30A fuse, but..... If desperate you could fit a diode from the fuse to the motor - but htis doen't sort out the fault. Roger

Hi Stuart,             if you are going down to bare metal then I would use 'Bonda Rust Primer' with Frosts Black Chassis paint on top.   If yu are simply recoating with top coat then use the Chassis black as above. Don't use their extra durable paint. It is very thin for spraying and very expensive. Roger

Thanks Markus,                      excellent description of what is going on. Roger          

Hi Alec,     according to the TR Reg forum Moss do the solid mount that extends to the collars. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/f.....bsp;  post #34 Roger    

If you think you may be affected there is a simple check - make sure there is a small gap (1 or 2mm) between what would be the mating faces. This ensures that the clamps are acting on the rack and not just tight within themselves. Roger

K-seal is good and works but if the core plug is badly corroded it may well bust out - and then you will need 'K-bung'. Roger

Hi John,            a well installed cable loom to the lights should prove faultless for many years. Fuses fail for willy nilly reasons as well as important one.  Remove the cause of the important failure. Roger

Hi John,            possibly not a good idea to have the headlights fused. Roger

Hi Andy,              yours is the best simplest idea. Hi Stu,           you could buy an OD logic box that will take you out of OD each time you change gear (and more). The ones on the market are about £70 but can be knocked up for about £10 - I've done this on my 4A. Hi Ridgetone,                    the lights is easy - one relay, one LED, a buzzer and two wires. One wire to the lighting circuit, one wire to ignition. The Ig goes to the relay coil, the light circuit goes to one of the contacts - these are Normally Closed NC - the other contact goes to a buzzer then earth. With ig on the relay is open circuit - buzzer off. With Ig off and light on the relay is closed and the buzzer buzzes. Turn lights off buzzer stops. You could incorporate a switch (or timer) to over ride the circuit. Roger

Hi Tim,            using nice new shiny snap-on sockets and spanners, remove the oil cooler and throw it as far away as possible. You know it makes sense. Roger

Hi Jonny,              not so much detergents but sulphur etc. Roger

The standard 4A manifold is very good. If going for a fabricated one consider the exhaust system to get the best from it. I have a Phoenix manifold and it works very well - the feeling is that the engine os breathing better. But then I also have a straight through single pipe exhaust (Phoenix). They do standard or noisy. I think mine is standard as the missus can sleep on a long journey. If you go for a fabricated manifold also consider some form of heat insulation. A number of people use the TRactor tape - looks awful, crude, fire hazard, and not cheap for what it is. Camcoat do a ceramic coating that appears to work (haven't measured the temp but the exhaust at the back is considerably hotter than before). many different colours available and again appears durable - mine is 9 years old and still looks good. If you go for it consider the triple coat. Zircotec do something similar and many people like it. You will need a heatshield if you are running an alternator. Or you could stick a straight through single pipe exhaust onto the standard manifold. Roger

Hi Rob,            there is a 'white' grease that is water proof. Most other greases will allow moisture in including 'copperslop' (I like that name) If the front hub assembly hasn't been apart for quite some time it may well be worth the extra work to take it all apart and see what else needs doing. It really isn't that much extra work. Having said that I have A TR not a Herald. Again not being familiar with the herald if it is like the TR - inspect the bottom of the vertical link that fits into the TRunion for corrosion. If it is corroded/pitted it would need changing Roger

Hi Stuart,               To clarify the use - When in the correct gear you can select OD without too many problems. Don;t be going too slow when you do this Coming out of OD is more interesting. If you take your foot off the throttle and disengage OD the back wheels will try to lock up. Worse still the OD will try to act like a brake and it will probably break. You MUST increase the revs slightly then drop out of OD and it will be as smooth as a babies rear end. You could also drop the clutch and change down - but this is for cowards. Or you could install a simple logic box that will bring you out of OD when you change gear (up or down). I'm sure on the TR cars that the switched cable is earth. If running your wires through the gear stick then earth wires would be safer. Although the inhibit switches are there to stop you selecting anything other than the correct gears things can go wrong. Never select reverse gear with the OD switched in (just in case) If when you reverse you feel a resistance to going backwards DO NOT put your foot harder on the throttle - if you do achieve reverse in OD you could easily destroy the OD casing Roger

Hmmmm!!                   main AND dip at the same time. They do different things - the dip would add very little value to the overall effect. OK the rally boys may think different BUT they are often driving in vastly different conditions. The gearbox has quite few gears - why not use 3rd and 4th at the same time - it doesn't work. Whatever halogens you have fitted I'm sure there are better ones - Osram 'Nightbreakers' have a very good name. As for the speed of light - there are more important issues ;!! what is the speed of DARK? Roger

Hi Julian,              Walter Petchy near Standstead in the UK.   Usually expensive but always good. http://www.zoominfo.com/p/Walter-Petchey/1423646850 Roger

Will any remaining flux cause chaos in the days/months years to come.!!! Roger

Yes,  that's the  one.  Quite  a good article. Roger

Hi  Marcus,              Like Tim I also  read an article  by a  supplier/builder in  the states. He compared AE, County and  some other  super-duper  piston. The  overall winner was the  County. Not just  price/economy but  absolute values  like uniform weight/ finish quality/dimensions. Would you put them in a  serious  race car - why not!! (what could possibly go wrong). I've done 150K miles in my 4A with no problem. Roger

Hi Spitty,                 when you  have  the  GB  out have a look at where the input shaft goes  in - is there a significant  oil stain.  The front will go eventually. Are there any other leaks around the box - now is the  time to  sort them. Roger