Hogie

Hi Paul,        have you tried Woolies  https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/   Roger

Hi Steve, Not all grease guns can pump oil - as you have found it leaks. I think you need to establish what nipple sockets you have as some are tighter than other. What grade of oil are you using. Do your trunnions require oil or grease. I have a TR4A that originally used grease but TRiumph later changed it to EP90 or some such. I prefer grease but others like the oil.   Roger

using simple engineering methods the quick rack gearing will require more effort to turn it. Thus the original 3.9 requires less effort. Not a problem as you would have the PA to drive it.  But the quick rack could wear out more easily.   I don;t know if anybody has used one and got any experience.   Roger

Hi Wim,   I use this https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cgg500-500cc-oil-suction-gun/ Similar to the draper but it has lasted a few years now with GB and diff oil.   I'm not to keen on Draper products.   Roger

Hi Laurence,               have you complained to the supplier?   Roger

Hi Andy,           these felt seals have been a pain in the bum for some time. Usually (on the TR range  GSH110) these have too thick felt - it should be just over 6mm.  7mm would be nice. A German friend sourced a fancy  lip seal last year and suggests that it works fine - don;t know the P/no, maker etc. but could find out.   Using your info above I look at the SKF site and it gave 14864 as the equivalent to GSH110. So rather than measure my VL first I decided to get the seals. This morning I colected the seals, stripped the front offside on the 4A and found my folly. The ID of the new seal is way too big.  It needs to be 1.375".  Also it may not protrude enough to actually seal.   So what is wrong with the felt seal. Usually the felt is too thick.  Simples TRim down to 7mm You have found the steel backing is too big in diameter. have you measured it to see how big. Have you reported this back to the supplier - quite often they fill their boxes with the wrong part. NO QC. I have found that the TR and Spitfire felt seal are the same from my supplier and they shouldn't be  GSH110 TR - GSH146 Spitfire.   I will be sticking with the felt seals.  Does anybody want 2 x 14864 seals  !!!!!   Roger

Hi Wim,       many moons ago I had a very serious knocking from the diff. Eventually it all locked up.    The big nut holding the pinion in place came loose and the pinion was knocking on something.    The split pin in the nut was not fitted.   Roger

Hi Wim,      that sounds most odd.  How do you know the prop is turning when you say the wheels are blocked (not turning).   This would mean you have no teeth on the CW/Pinion etc.   Have you got overdrive. If so, could the OD clutch be slipping.   Roger

Hi Stephen,          most MIG welding units will do Stainless wire.   Not  as delicate as a TIG welder for the thinnest material. £400 would buy a nice MIG welder.    Join a TIG and MIG together and you reduce the quality of both for that money.  Roger

Hi Folks,         I like the idea of the breakdown roadsweep. The above problems are ones that could be resolved without too much pain - cearly volunteer support would be on a bigger scale. Not the end of the world though. A problem that the sweepers would have to overcome is in having enough of the right parts. So a serious inventory would have to be sorted before the off. The more sweepers you have the more spares you will need. Some suppliers may be happy to do a sale or return system. Great idea. I'm up for it.   Roger

Hi Folks,         I have just found out (a- by making a hole and looking  & B - someone else had a look.) The there is nothing other than the selector rods in the cavity. So mystery solved. New mystery - why did they make a hole and put a plate on it.   Roger

Hi Tony,       have you seen my oil leaks. Too much oil never happens. The oil only ever max's out when dribbling from the filler hole on level ground. I've just had this crackers idea - applying positive pressure air to the hollow cavity in the top cover just forward of the selector rod seals (where the mystery plate could fit!!). But that is daft   Roger

Hi Tony,             it has the OD breather and a 1/8" hole in the top cover that I did a couple of years back. I have been playing with the seals this PM. I have made some packing washers to hold the Q seals hard in place. And have sealed them in with silicon Gasket Goo.   The plate on top of the  cover is a mystery and may come in handy for more seals. I wonder how many I can get in there.   Roger

Hi Folks,       I'm in the process of trying to stop/reduce oil leaks in my TR4A GB. The main concern at the moment are the the selector rods. I have replaced the O rings - no joy I have fitted Q seals - no joy. Today I spotted a top cover that had a plate screwed to the top surface. This plate, I believe, would allow access into the rear hollow section of the top cover. Does anybody know why it is there. It may be for a saloon or late TR6   This hollow cavity may allow a solution to my leak.   Roger

Hi Folks,           these dodgy motors turn up like buses. My 2 speed DR3 on the TR4A died on the Isle of Lewis. I used my boot laces to operate the disconnected wiper blades - deep joy (but easy to do). The two copper rivets on the lid for the self parking MUST be insulated from the lid. Quite often the high speed winding insulation disintegrates and shorts out. This is not a conventional winding but a resistance wire wound on the field coil. Easy enough to remove and clean and refit without shorting - coated mine with RTV silcon sealant. I eventually fitted the TR6 14W motor - cheap, and plentiful. You need to get the correct gear wheel for the sweep. However the wheelbox gear will affect this. On my 4A I left the 4A wheelboxes in place and fitted a 90 degree gearwheel in the motor. This gives almost 120 degree bade sweep.  AND it works wonderfully.   Roger

HI Kevin,               most oils will produce a small amount of fine bubbling. What type of oil do you use.   Engine oil 20/50 etc may contain detergent and give a great deal of foaming.   Roger

Hi Matt,             if your 'chrome' capping is like the TR4 - 6 versions then it is bright Anodised on Ali (previously Brass) Looks just like Chrome but goes on Ali a lot easier. Moss - Europe sell a decent sealant  for windscreens etc used for this capping https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/windscreen-sealant-mqc1136.html Make sure all the rivet & bolt holes have a bead around their periphery otherwise the windscreen frame fills with water   Roger    

Hi Richard,               what ever happens to the car re- regulations etc do get it MOT'd EVERY year. Quite a few components fade away over time and you will not notice it unless it is being driven or looked for.   A second pair of eyes is worth every penny.   Roger

Hi Folks,        not much interest in this topic on here. However , at Gaydon on Sunday I spoke with a BMH man who put the problem into a different light.   BMH stopped making TR7 panels back in 2008 as the dies and stamps were badly worn. They took the decision recently not to get involved again with these. The man also said that they only ever made three panels - door skin, sill and wing repair section (I think)   Rimmers had a decent stock many moons ago.   Roger

Hi Folks,        haven't got too much information but I have heard that BMH have stopped making TR7/8 body panels and the press tools may have been scraped.   Start collecting what is out there - it will not last.   Roger

Hi Ralph,                  try Camskill tyres   https://www.camskill.co.uk/ Vredstein T-TRack at about £50 per corner   Nice tyre in wet and dry.   Roger

Hi Richard,                 removing the opposite cooling vane is the easy option and should work well. The soldering material mentioned by 'Glang' above is available at the NEC car show but I can't see it on Ebay.  There are other materials that may work. There is also Lumiweld that may be easier to handle. If you still have the broken off part why not pop along to your local garage and get them to TIG it back on.    Roger

Hi Matt,             not sure what carbs you have but on the HS6 you have to set a gap for the height of the float - should be in the manual.   Roger

All brake/clutch fluids can go 'bad' given enough time. DOT5 SBF was designed as a storage medium that would work when require (US army trucks in long term storage).  One of its big failings is the time taken to remove air bubbles once introduced - this could be caused by excessively bad road surface.   DOT4 is more forgiving of air bubbles as they dissipate quickly. However the fluid does age with bad results  - change every two/three years   Roger

Hmmm,           a parallel leccy pump - that sounds interesting.   Roger