Hogie

Although not a 'Bubble' car my first car type transport after my Lambretta was a Bond Mk F Had it for 2 years and have very fond memories with it. I can feel a day trip coming on. Roger

H Edward, where were you parked. Most supermarket areas have CCTV as do many roads. Go back to the scene of the issue and see if you can see any caneras. Council cameras have serial numbers on them so they can be interagated via the council. Your insurer should have come up with this one. Roger

before retirement in 2009 most of my tools that I bought were not 'the' best but OK. Now retired I can afford a little more. The Bosch battery screw driver is wonderful for taking the tedium out of little screws. I have a cheap (McAlister) cordless drill to see how I got on with these new fangled things. The bl**dy thing just goes on and on - will I ever need to upgrade to a better one. Because of lockdown, money used for touring has been building up. So, I couldn't resist the TIG welder when a silly job beckoned. (E-Tech TIG160 hmmmmm) I have an ex-US airforce socket set - 1/2" drive BlackHawk 1950's vintage - via father-in-law's nieces husband. But my go to tool is a hammer - a tinbashers hammer for gently telling metal where to go. It feels right. Roger

Have a look here https://etype.chrisvine.com/tag/6ra/ Some relays look identical but may have different contact power ratings. Roger

Hi Folks, my first post on the new system. I've added a pic of me. This is not a criticism but an observation. The whole forum layout is rather clunky at present (early days). Will it be broken down into car groups to make finding relevant issues more direct? - something like the old system. Do we really need all the overly larger advertising? Roger

Hi Antonia, If it was me, I would remove the carpets etc and clean the whole area so as to get a good idea of the previous repair and any further rusting. Ideally replacement of the floor would be a good idea, but a lot of work. Roger

Hi Folks, this has been doing the rounds of all the forums. The lighting regulations have not changed just the listing for the MOT. Many cars that have 'E' marks etc and where the manufacturer got their approval using filament bulbs need to stick with what they have - unless the manufacturer updates its approval. Our old TRiumph cars  (not the acclaim and probably not the TR7) are beyond that control and basically we can do what ever we want as long as it passes the light characteristics for dip beam etc.   Roger    

Hi Bruce, the fact that you can see rust spots means that the steel under the chrome is now rusty and will not go away. The Chrome surface is not a continuous sheet of metal but is made up of little islands - you can;t see the joins. This is how the water/moisture gets to the steel. In theory the copper/nickel layers under the Chrome should stop this but as time goes by the water will get passed. Can it be fixed - the only proper fix is to remove the Chrome and start again. You can clean and polish for a temporary fix. Autosol metal polish will clean it. Then apply Autoglym polish to seal it. Do this regularly. If you get caught in the rain make sure you clean/dry the chrome when you get home and reapply the Autoglym.   Roger 

Hi Pete, they had 10 made in the first batch and most have sold. I think there may be 2 or 3 still available. After these have gone anybody can contact Expressed Steel Panels and buy from them. Or contact Robsport   Roger

Hi Folks, if you have a TR7 or 8 there is now a brand new front  panel for the headlights Have a look here https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/75392-tr78-front-panel-wkc4077/ These are the only new panels available.   Roger

Hi Dave, the squealing is caused by the pad vibrating just before the pad is squeezed on the disc. Not all pads do it and a good pad could squeal on another disc. The anti squeal metal shims work by cocking the pad over a very small amount. This stops the face of the pad vibrating on the disc by presenting an edge that gives it a small contact area. The sticky backing simply holds the pad and thus stops the vibration.   Give it a go without the backing. If it squeals then fit the backing.   Roger

We have the opposite problem in West London. Anything bigger than an A35 has its main beams on all the time - day/night/sun/smog/fog A pair of HID's or LASER LED's bearing down on you is quite off putting.   The only cure is to get a taller and taller car - hence the arrival of the SUV etc.   Roger

Hi Steve, these are not true electronic systems but an electronic device to replace the contact breaker. You will get no performance improvement assuming your original set up is good. What you will benefit from is no adjustments after installation. Instead of buying the compete unit why not buy the sensor that does all the work for about £30 (also buy a spare) Lumention make a version that may well be better quality (mine is 15 years +) but at a price - £100+++ (don;t forget the spare). Pertronix, Aldon etc are slitghtly different devices and may well give performance improvement. The contact breaker system is proven to work very well and will inform of forth coming failure with built in limp home mode.  The other device die in an instant.   Roger

Hi Adrian, if it was my tank I would use Bilt Hamber DeOxC. Blank off all the holes (especially those at the bottom) but leave one at the top open. A 1 Ltr bottle makes 10 or 20 Ltr of working fluid so you may need 3 or 4 bottles to give a decent level in the tank Firstly mix 10 Ltr with one bottle and pour this in with the tank in its normal upright position. Leave for 24 Hrs. This concentrate will attack the rust efficiently. Then add 10 Ltr of water to the tank and also add the extra bottles mixed at 10 or 20:1  Lay the tank on its front then back then sides. Leave each position for 24 Hrs. If possible agitate the mix if you remember. It will take a week but will be done very nicely. Drain it out (you can keep it for other jobs) rinse with petrol or simply allow to air dry. Job done.   Roger  

Hi Folks, my virtual RBRR has gone well but the weather has been very bad. I should have put the roof up before JoG. We arrived at JoG on time as there were no virtual traffic jams or road works. However it is pouring down (I just looked out of the living room window). So we are now off through deepest darkest Scotishland. It would be nice to see some virtual Red Deer Stags (Monarch of the Glen). So as it is virtual we will. Plus all the other rare things up there here - Otter, Crested Tit, Beaver Lynx.  etc I hope we do not have a virtual breakdown. Report back tomorrow   Roger

This years London Marathon will be a 'virtual' event with people running around their gardens etc.   This afternoon I shall get the map out and start a virtual RBRR - hour by hour on the dinning room table.  Sue will be doing the night time virtual driving (this is a good as she can't drive) I suspect we will have no breakdowns  - unless I spill the coffee on the map. The weather looks shit but it doesn't matter in my virtual tropical world (we have an orchid on the window sill) Can't wait for Sunday teatime to get back to normality.   Roger

The systems used by TRR and TSSC go a step further. If you write a post but then for whatever reason do not send it it will remain in the text box for when you do your next post. So if you do it wrong you simply go back in and there it is. Roger

Many thanks Cliff   Roger

Hi Clive, how is it going. Is there light at the end of the tunnel.   Best of luck   Roger

Hi Wim, well done.  I had a problem with a TR6 windscreen wiper motor (14W) that uses the same park switch.  The pin had worn down after 18 months and would not turn off the motor. I designed an electronic answer using a Hall effect IC + Magnet with some neat MOSFETS. I do like your simple microswitch - a beautiful idea.   Roger

Technically then any motor will fit provided you knock up a mounting, convert the wiring and change the drive gear?     Stuff it - sort out your own problems. Good bye.   Roger

The DR3 or DR3A are quite weak motors and are not that good at keeping the screen clear in heavy weather. After years of suffering with my DR3 two speed on the TR4A I went for the TR6 14W motor. The are seriously powerful, 2 speed, and will fit.  If the GT6 drive cable is similar to the TR it then it is a straight swap. You will need to knock up a new motor mounting. and the switch/cable needs sorting The one big issue is the drive gear. They are all available but you need to calculate wha angle is required - it will be different to the standard. On my TR4A the standard angle is 120' - I fitted a 95' for the same sweep.   Roger   Roger  

Hi Jim, Ooops!! sorry about that  https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/category/wiper-systems-and-part/   Roger

Hi Jim, look here for your parts. Am I right in thinking it is a 14W motor. If so the two speed version requires the special switch  35927 Don't know what angle you need but SVC do all the gears Roger

For many member the forum is the important area. It is painfully slow.   Listen to the din of footsteps walking away to other clubs.   Keith has stated that he wishes to stand down from this project. Without Keith the whole website has no future - it is bespoke and at best working at present.   If you want to bring back the old and new members it needs to be what one expects - and slow is not that. The first priority is to consider the member and what they want. Thankfully it looks like that is what is being done now.   Roger