Hogie

Hi Tim/Colin,          I'm happy with the older technology and I'm happy with most repro parts. Annoyingly they can and do go pop. But then one has the opportunity to improve the  cheapo part. I defy this bl**dy pump to fail again.   Roger  

Hi Dave,           very possibly. never thought of that.  My mechanical clamp should hold it in place.   Roger

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQHRB2ElZJ0   This is a nice demo for a helicoil   Not really related to the pump    Roger

I echo the above posts. A very well organised event. I  was not amused by the atmospheric moisture and lighting effects around Llanberis. Did we get wet - yes. Excellent event - well done.   Roger

Hi Folks,         many thanks for your replies but I think I have now sorted it. Can't remember the BTDC degrees but whatever the book said (either 4 or 10 !!)   Hi Danny,  I would not have thought 1/4 degree would have such an effect. But you may well be spot on. Quite often you can time them +/- 5' to place the torque where you want.   In the end I removed the TT cam and fitted a Newman PH-1. It hasn't got the intense oomph of the TT cam but it is significantly better in both build quality and performance to the standard cam.   I also found that the valve springs fitted to the NEW Moss cylinder heads are of the uprated variety and this may well have put too much pressure on a barely adequate standard cam that was fitted that required me to fit a new cam. Anybody with a TR 4 pot wet liner and is thinking about cams. I would suggest the Newman as the quality is there with a little more oomph. The standard offering is very poor. If you are considering a NEW head then think about the vale springs. The uprated ones are very stiff. Roger  

Hi Tony,             it is over 20 years old so I think the warranty has expired. Some faults on these repro parts do not show themselves too quickly. The repair I have carried out is engineered 😉 not bodged🙁 but I am capable of a good bodge or two.   Roger

Hi Folks,           I've had this problem recur a couple of times and thought I had fixed it but I got caught out with it again yesterday. In the top cover of the mechanical fuel pump there are two Non-Return Valves (NRV's) One of these valves is not fitted tight enough and originally dropped down and sat on the diaphragm - easily sorted IF you know whats happening. I had peened the surround of the hole to lock the valve in place and also fitted a retaining washer - but the cunning blighter still escaped.   Roger

Hi Richard,          it is called 'no-crode'  and can be found on ebay  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Holts-No-Crode-Battery-Anti-Corrosion-gel-compound-30ml-tube/332541026011?epid=8014240081&hash=item4d6cfd5edb:g:P0cAAOSw61hadDLy   Roger

Hi,      Have a word with Revington  https://www.revingtontr.com/product/214643/name/tr7-camshaft    Roger

The point about a soft material (Nylon etc) wearing a harder material (steel). The soft material can pick up grit type products and these can be very hard. Roger

Hi Jeremy,              I would stick with a good quality DOT4 or even DOT3. If you insist on DOT 5 then flush with plenty of Meths.   If there is a very small amount of DOT4 mixed in with the DOT5 then don;t panic. It will not stop it working.   Roger               

Hi Greta,            yes you can use a modern relay  http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/642/12v-4-blade-relay Durite   Four blade 'A' type would do it ncey. Roger

To add colour to Dave's post C1 - Brown (or Brown/White)   +12V from ammeter/solenoid etc C2 - Yellow/Purple                    to the solenoid W1 - White                              +12V from ignition switch W2 - Yellow (or yellow/green)   to the column switch C1 & C2 can be interchanged W1 & W2 can be interchanged This correct for a TR4A negative earth and works See this also http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf Also there are four different 6RA relays - make sure you have the right one. Roger

Hi Matt,            not sure what would be the best for your situation but I know the one that I would NOT recommend. Many people rave over the Dynamator but I would stay clear as they are prone to failure Alternator squeezed into a dynamo body - reduced cooling air etc Roger

vast selection here  https://www.camskill.co.uk/m73.....inch_-_155_13_155R13 Roger

Hi Andy,    thanks for that it gives me hope. I have been told that I now need to get the carbs tuned for the cam, preferably on a rolling road. I had the dizzy adjusted for the standard cam two years ago.  I'll have to send that away to be sorted for the new cam. I'll get there but it is a lot of work. All I wanted was a good quality standard cam but nobody would guarantee the quality of of a cheap (£150) cam. Roger

Hi Folks,              the standard cam fitted to the TR4A gives a very smooth tick over 600 rpm typical.  17/57  57/17 valve timing. Would you think that a slightly tuned cam would give a more lumpy tick over giving a tick over in excess of 1000rpm Moss (Kent) TT1104N  31/68 - 68/31. When first installed last week I thought I had it all installed correctly. The engine started but needed a fair bit of fettling to calm down.  It appears to go quite well but the tick over is quite rough. Today I took it all apart again. The reassembling appears exactly as I did it last week. Tomorrow should be interesting. Roger

Hi Keith,               I received an email saying membership accepted - lo and behold the entry button appeared.  All done. Sparky - go for it. I will have to drive down to Sussex for a drive it day all day bash. If you wear sun glasses while marshaling you can shut your eyes Roger

Hi Folks,           Oh dear - am I that dim !!! I can log into the site and am registered for it. I can get the main C2C page with all the instructions I can get tot he Entry list page (orange  table with 9 entries so far) But can I find an entry button -  no. HELPPPPPPPPPP Roger

Thank you Richard               I'll give it a go. Roger

Hi Folks,             am I thick !! I can't see/find the 'entry button'  Help. Roger

Hi Folks,          Possible daft question.   I've logged into the new siet and can see the entry list but where is the entry form? Roger

Hi Iain,              like a lot of folk one hears something way back and it sticks with you.   The only technical basis for me to believe it is that Lead acid bats do grow chemical whiskers on the plates. A high discharge and charge help to keep the plates clean. Roger

Hi Dave,       it appears you use your car in the Winter; I would go for a quality charger that gives a decent charge rate as and when required. Lead acid batteries like to work - a good discharge and charge helps to keep the inside clean. Little use and trickle charge will eventually kill it. I have a Halfords charger that is not too expensive and use to the boost my TR4 battery prior to over wintering (still be rebuilt). I also have an old spare battery for 12V tasks in the garage that gets a boost every six months or so with a decent discharge prior to charging. Roger

Hi Rob,           I run  a TR4A and have had the same problem. To isolate the PCV I simply blanked off the intake pipe and had the rocker outlet run through  a longish pipe down towards the ground. The first thing I noticed was that there was NO air or oil coming out of the pipe - held hand near the open end and nothing. After a good number of miles (100=) there was no oil on the engine bay body work where the pipe outlet was immediately in contact  with. This suggested there was no excessive crankcase pressure (blow by etc) The oil consumption went from 300miles/ltr to inexcess of 600miles/ltr and counting. It is possible for the PCV to malfunction, continuous sucking or no suck. One uses a great deal of oil the can cause serious leaking from any hole in the engine block. I'm now running with a cheap catch tank from ebay. The tank is empty after 1000+ miles. There is one thing to look for in the PCV  - it must be positioned so that the  pipe from the rocker is sloping downwards so that oil can run back into the rocker cover pipe. Other wise it will drain into the manifold. If you are burning excess oil in the combustion have you noticed 'pinking'. The oil reduces the RON of the fuel. I had bad pinking - couldn't get rid of it. It was the oil. Roger