Hogie

Attaching/pasting photo's on here is easy and quick Click on attach file below left and bingo.   Roger

Hi Mike, not being a good idea is hugely different from not actually working. What were the testers doing??? Anyway, water under the bridge now. The club now actually recognises peoples issues and are moving forward to sort it out. Roger

Hi Folks, I would like to thank Keith B for attempting to sort the forum out. What were the alpha and beta testers doing when looking at the embtyonic forum.Doh. As he stated in a post back in December the previous forum structure was not well thought out regarding stability.   As for going forwards simply go for a standard system that is already up and running. Off the peg as it were. We all have our favourites  and the offerings given by 'Invision'. look and work well. TRR, TSSC and Sideways can't all be wrong. Their systems have many options.  Please do have - edit post,  easy Photo/document insertion, post numbering, Forum members contact listing. I feel the 'TRiumphexperience' site looks a little old fashioned but it does have a good nuber of followers.   If you need to up the membership subs by a £1 or so then do it - you have the cheapest rates at the moment.  If you need a cash advance then ask for it. Quality costs money - but quality is great value.  Do not be cheap.   Roger      

Hi Kevin, there is a maximum amount of back lash on the crown wheel when being built. By the time this gets to the road wheels it is significantly more. Rather than worry about the lash do you get any clonking when taking up the drive or chaning gears in general. I do not consider your amount of back lash a problem.   Roger

Hi Tim, have you had a look here  https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/replacement-washer-pump-for-wb3lt-black Cheap and cheerful but they work.   Roger

Hi Alec, I agree 100%. If the taper pin is engineered to fit as it should do then it will work reliably. However (there is always an however) as supplied the pins and the holes are not supplied in an acceptable condition for the best part. In order to survive the taper pin MUST be in shear  only.  The moment any play is allowed in the taper an amount of tensile stress is applied to the pin and eventually it will fail - no matter how good it is. How to overcome this lack of quality. 1.  Use your skills to tidy up the pin and hole(s) so that only a shear force is present. 2.  Fit an additional roll pin at 90 degrees. Although it is in a parallel hole the roll pin will sit quite happily as attested by 1000's of successful  fitments. 3.   Or do as I have done on my TR4 fit the taper pin so that it is in double shear. Machine the end of the pin with a parallel nose. Make a bush that fits this parallel nose and then fits into the blind hole in the fork above where the  pin fits. Screw the pin into its position and it is then supported at the thread end and the nose end. 4.  weld the fork to the shaft - desperation. The TRiumph design is good if engineered correctly. Sadly to many cases of bad quality parts.   Roger  

That is stunning - are the welds in good condition !!!!!!😜 When you take it all down consider fitting a roll pin through the cross shaft/fork to support the taper pin.  This is a standard (home) mod on all the TR models.   I have a pretty standard clutch plate & cover from TRshop on my 4A and this is light compared to previous items fitted.  Double up on the cross shaft bushes if you can. A touch of red grease on the plate splines and under the bearing carrier. Roger

Hi Mason, air in the system would have the same effect whether pressed hard pr soft. I would suggest that you have a dodgy master Cylinder/seals. Is it a new item (if so refit the old one and see what happens) If an old unit did you replace the seals (the right way round !!)?   Roger

Tip #1 - when you buy a spare part fit it immediately and put the removed working item in the boot - you will then know that the spare works.  Not all repro spares work.   Tip #1 carry all the tools you need to ensure you can fit a spare part. My last recent Hic up - brake pads needed replacing in the lake district. I had the new pads in the boot but I could not retract one of the caliper pistons - I did not have a pad retractor tool or decent pipe grips (Swan neck pliers).   Roger

Hi Kevin,  if you attempted a retorque of the head studs why would you consider replacing the gasket ?   If you drive as per touring etc I would go for the standard gasket at £21 and I wouild get it from TRShop in Chiswick (I have no connection) If it is foot down all the way then consider the expensive one - BUT - before the expensive ones the standard gaskets did everything with only a very few failures for crazy driving. Roger

Hi Kevin, so you are losing water and there is an oily film in the rad. It runs OK. That would normally feel like head gasket blown going into a water way. However this could give other symptoms like pressuring the cooling system and blowing water out to the expansion bottle. Do you have an expansion bottle from the rad. This is a simple check list that makes me happy - retorque the head studs/nuts Drain the coolant and fill with clean water (in order to check later) After 100miles check the coolant water/rad for combustion gases. If present remove the head.   If not is there any oil film. If not the retorquing may have done it.   Or a quicky - remove the spark plugs and look into the tops of the pistons - the leaking cylinder - even with a very small leak can make the piston tops very clean very quickly   The oil suggests it is the gasket Rather than a compression test - a leak down test may be better - both worth a go.   Roger

this may be completely wrong but ---- on my TR4A I had the dreaded clutch judder (aka ratchet clutch) This in my case was caused by the clutch diaphragm fingers being on a different centreline to the GB extension nose that the release bearing slides on. When you depressed the pedal the CRB would slide forward and slightly cock over onto the new centreline. When you lift the pedal the fingers pushed the CRB backwards. Th CRB would try to slide backwards but because it was cocked over would jam on the GB extension nose (wear marks to show this). Eventually vibration would release it with a mighty kick. It would happen with no revs as the fingers did not spin it onto a new centreline. I found that my splined GB input shaft and the GB extension nose were not concentric   Check everything. The TR4 never had this issue as it has a flat CRB and did not spin into a new centreline   Roger

  Who's Stuart Edwards? Hi Anthony, he is a long time car restorer down in Cornwall and frequents the TR Register forum.   Roger

Hi Anthony, if that is what Stuart (Edwards) says then it is fact.   If you decide to refit the reversing lights then how about fitting them into the reflector on the light cluster rather than have those cheapo tits sticking out. Is the wiring from the GB there to be used.   Roger

Hi Matt,  the black clutch fluid is fairly standard. Don't worry about that one.   Roger

Hi Matt, If everything appears to be moving correctly then you need to question the internal assembly have you got the friction plate the right way round. There should be  an impression on the plate saying 'flywheel side' or something similar.   Roger

There is also Colonnade Metal Finishers in Wembly (next to the stadium). Very good quality, reasonable price but not the fastest service when I was last there.   Roger

Hi Kevin, having read websites and seen the Moss video I will assume that you have wired it correctly. I didn't have that luxury a few years ago and I now have an ammeter that shows a charge if I apply  a large load to the system.  This is not actually a problem.   That bit doesn;t help you other than there are quirks in the TR system. You say your battery is OK. The 10 amp flow reducing to 2 amps after a very long run would suggest you have a battery with a charging issue. It may be that it wasn't charging too well with the dynamo and then when the alternator was installed it had a challenge to get the battery up to sorts. No problem in using an ammeter instead of a voltmeter - it can give good information as to when systems are coming on line etc (rad fan ) Make sure that ALL the wiring behind the dashboard is in very good order. The ammeter brown wire caries a lot of punch.   Roger  

Thanks Rob. I have a feeling you may be right about the dodgy conversion. I have found nothing as an aftermarket remedy. Perhaps I will have to send it off to another bunch of shysters. Roger

Hi Folks, about four or five years ago I had my mechanical Tacho converted to electric - running off the coil. Under normal driving speeds it appears to give a reasonable reading. It runs up to 3000 rpm happily. Sadly it does not display over 3000 rpm - it just sits there. I have contacted the chap that converted it but he has no answers (yet) I have been informed that the input pulses may be too noisy etc. Has anybody got any info on what I could twiddle with to improve things. Or any comments to point me in the right direction   Roger

The DVLA are quite happy to sell your private data to parking companies etc. I would have thought giving it to the French nation is a lesser invasion of your privacy.   roger

Hi Graham, I know nothing of the Heralds, but on the TR series you can not use steel wheel studs on a wire wheel adaptor - to long.   Roger

Hi Chris,         TRiumph got it right when they used UNF as the thread form. UNF is used to stop vibration loosening the stud/nut.  Low torque figure is fine as the 6 studs do a good job. I think 50 years is a good life for a stud in Ali. If you go the 5/16UNF helicoil route you will have a greater locking system as the Helicoil actually moves outwards (into the Ali) and grips better.   The logic behind UNC for this application is flawed.   Stick with the 5/16UNF.   Roger

Most of the outer panels for TRiumph cars apprx 1mm (19 SWG or 0.040") The inner panels (floors etc)  apprx 1.4mm (18SWG or 0.048") Many of the repro panels (wings etc)  are thinner than standard (easier to press)   Roger

Hi Phil,  above info is good. Regarding filling / draining - what type of oil are you going to use? Generally any decent gearbox oil will work well.  SAE 30 up to EP90 all run well. Do NOT add any clever additives it will do the internal OD clutch no favours.   Roger