Hogie

It's on the calendar Roger

Hi Tim,            put me down for anywhere in the country - it would be fun getting there !! Roger

Thanks chaps,                    that appears to have summed it up nicely.  I'll pass this onto my chum. The question arose when my friend asked a supplier what he needed to upgrade his TR3 lighting. He was a little shocked at what was needed. Simply upgrading the bulb (from BPF ot H4) is not the way to go. Roger

Hi Folks,               does a H4 bulb fit into an older BPF reflector socket? Roger

Hi Iggy,          the TR5 may well have had OD on 2nd - using up 4A stock probably. I always thought the 'J' type was a stronger OD but could be wrong and that is why it was fitted to the 6 pot cars. Roger

Hi Iggy,             the inhibit switches are not named very well, they actually allow that gear to be used. 1st and Reverse should never go through the  OD and DO NOT have inhibit switches  - the torque could be too aggressive for it. Like wise on the 6 cylinder engines 2nd gear is not used for the same reason. What would be your aims if you could run 2nd OD - very limited use. So if you have inhibit switches for 3rd and 4th then these need to be wired in parallel and then fed to earth/switch etc. If you really want second OD then you will need an inhibit switch fitted to the GB top cover in the correct place and this goes in parallel with the other two. If you have a  similar switch for reverse then this could well be for Reverse lighting. If you need to install a limit switch then the thread size to use is M16 x 2mm - however the actual thread is 5/8" x 13TPI but this does not exist. Good luck Roger

Hi Iggy,                 if you want OD in ALL gears then simply wire without the inhibit switches.   However you stand every chance of destroying your OD box in quick order.  The inhibit switches are there for a purpose. Second gear OD may actually be a higher gear than straight 3rd - so if you go 2 OD to 3rd the engine will 'race' sort of. Maybe the saloon gears are different to the early TR ratio's The Revington logic box will operate all gears that have the inhibit switch fitted. I found that all standard Momentary ON toggle type switches had quite a soft action (weak spring). With an extended lever it became almost floppy. That is why I went over to the press button style. This is a modified toggle switch that only uses the threaded end with the toggle pivot - the contact area is removed. However with a press button you do need a warning light to tell you where you are - In or out of OD. Roger

Hi Laurence,                          2 relays appears to be the popular method. That's what Revington use. I use two relays and a few other components just to make it more complicated. Roger

Hi Dazzer,                 the proprietary momentary switch is quite expensive. I made a press button switch - not sure what the Revington one switches but mine allows a pulse of +12v into the circuit. The press button is on the end of a stalk located in the switch position. When driving one just needs to flick a finger rather than move a whole hand. Roger

Hi Maz,             the scroll seal is a very simple device but it can be fitted badly. It needs to be central about the crank journal. To replace or re-set the scroll seal you need the engine out and the crank out. If it is similar to the TR seal/crank then the Australians have a very simple seal that simply fits over the flywheel attachment flange. Using two 'O' ring seals that are a nice fit over the crank journal. Put one in place then the other over the top of it. The oil leakage will lubricate the seal but will not get past it. very simple and you do not have to take the engine out.. Flywheel off, seals on, refit flywheel. Roger

Hi Maz,             the scroll seal is a very simple device but it can be fitted badly. It needs to be central about the crank journal. To replace or re-set the scroll seal you need the engine out and the crank out. If it is similar to the TR seal/crank then the Australians have a very simple seal that simply fits over the flywheel attachment flange. Using two 'O' ring seals that are a nice fit over the crank journal. Put one in place then the other over the top of it. The oil leakage will lubricate the seal but will not get past it. very simple and you do not have to take the engine out.. Flywheel off, seals on, refit flywheel. Roger

Hi Neil,             haven't a clue about that car or that area but mechanical fixing is often far better than welding when it comes to corrosion etc. If you do go down the mechanical fastening route consider - Rivnuts  -  once the nut is attached (on the wing off the car) then it is simply a spanner or ratchet job. Pop rivets have a poor name for quality attachment but can nonetheless be very good - good access required to pul the rivet down. There are many other bolt/collar fixings that may be worth a look but probably dearer than the above - cherry, Huck etc. Roger

Hi JJ,            what was the temperature around the battery overnight. Cold weather with reduce the battery volts. Roger

I would use a good grease that stays pliable at low temperatures. Hit temp is not really a problem I use Shell Aeroshell 7.  Castrol LM etc are happier when warmed up. Roger

Hi,     if they are like many other cars the key number will be stamped on the barrel (within the lock). So somehow you need to dismantle the handle/lock and get access to the barrel. Roger

Hi David,              is it weld or is it solder. It may be there simply to support the gasket. Roger

Hi Scotty,                   start off with the least invasive and progress from there. Steel putty - easy to do and if it doesn;t work go to the next step Braze - speak to a quality welding outfit.  There are a good selection of brazing techniques out there. You do need to get the area around the crack nice and hot but not the             whole block. Drill it out and insert a plug (Screw) I like this idea. Often done on aircraft (certainly the old ones) The crack is telling you that it is relieving itself so a hole will do nothing to affect the block. Roger

Hi Rick,               the very early TR4 had a short bulge as shown in Gary's photo. These bonnets were prone to cracking at the sides in line with the back of the bulge. These were superseded by the long bulge on the TR4/4A/5 which also had the slanted internal rib. The short bulge is period correct for very early TR4's but must be modified with a support bracket in each corner. Even the 4A and 5 should also be suitably supported. The old fashioned method of slamming the bonnet shut is NOT a good idea on these very long bonnets. Roger

If it is a solid pin then it will be tapered. A roll pin is parallel and the split down it holds it in place. A split pin is much easier to identify !!! Roger

Where abouts are you? roger

Hi John,           perhaps I posted the wrong/inappropriate video clip. Making bulges is easy (sort of) shrinking the flange (or better still NOT expanding it) is more difficult. Steel hammers are not the way forward for shrinking. Roger

The indents between the holes support the flange material. They do not support the bolt holes. The indents have to finish away from the holes and so the hole can get distorted. Without the indents there would be oil passing out everywhere. Roger

Roger, Fascinating!  How does a wooden hammer/ mallet compress, yet not spread the material?  How does a nylon hammer improve the 'finish', when all we want is a good seal?   Please show us your mallet with a head small enough to do the above job?   And please note my comments on controlling the force of the blows. JOhn[/quote] Hi John,              I'm not a panel beater but have learnt  a few things from a friend. Take the example that you wanted to put a 90' bend in a piece of sheet steel. The bend also has  6" radius (compound curve). The edge of the steel for the flat sheet is longer than  the edge of the finished article. So you need to bend it on a dolly and somehow shrink the metal - otherwise it will pucker. If you used a steel hammer each blow would tend to try and squish the metal and this make it bigger (stretch) Using a wooden hammer/mallet that is softer than the steel the metal would bend but as it is trying to get more metal into a smaller place the metal would now start to compress'shrink. So you get a neat finish with the wooden hammer than the steel. Very bad explanation  but I'm sure there are good tin bashers on here that will explain better. Rather than a smaller nylon hammer use a smaller nylon dolly. http://www.hotbikeweb.com/shrinking-metal-with-mallet-stump Roger

Hi John,               using a wood or nylon hammer may give a slightly better finish. Steel hammers to flatten sheet can easily spread it.  Wooden hammers/mallets help compress the material. Roger

Hi Pete,              mine were quite stiff to turn from new. There should be NO pre-load - it should (in theory) be loose but only just. As mentioned above 0.002" and a gnats. Were your hubs completely new or do they still have the original stub axle in. Roger