Hogie

Hi Pete,             are the 2000 hubs the same/similar to the TR4A/5/6 hubs with back to back taper bearings and a supposed 0.002 - 0.004 end float. If they are, has yours got the end float. I purchased two new hubs from a big TR parts supplier that build there own. They look good and they run very well indeed. I have done a good 8000 miles since April However they have no detectable end float.  Using the method in the ST workshop manual it is not possible to see end float. The builders have had no luck in achieving or detect end float. It would be interesting to see if Paddocks has this end float. Roger

Hi,      if the herald end plugs are anything similar to the ones used on the TR  four cylinder engines then they come on a stick of 5 or 9 plugs. They are not tapered.  However it would make sense that the hole is tapered. Fit one and see. Roger

Hi Nick,               I think they are talking about the end plugs under the front engine plate and the flywheel. Roger

Hi El Tel,              I'm not familiar with Heralds but generally you would need a non setting mastic - similar to that used in the windscreen rubber seal. ArboMast , supplied by Moss-Europe - is one make - there are plenty of other. probably not a good idea to use a silicon sealant. Roger http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-tools/consumables/gaskets-sealants/windscreen-sealant-mqc1136.html

Hi Folks,                not sure about which hubs your are referring to.. However if they are anything like the TR hubs do remember that after you replace the bearings, seals, crush tube etc you still have a 50 year old stub axle. These do break It is not fail safe (although a good design within its working life They can't be inspected - even when the axle is laying on the bench - the cracking mode/material is too rapid. DO NOT fit refurb'd hubs unless you know that the axle is new. The failure is age related Fat tyres, kerbing, uprated shocks etc have no detrimental effect - it is age. Roger (tin hat in place)

Hi Richard,                   Hardy Engineering in Leatherhead are very good at GB and OD on TR's Jags and Healys. Their only failing is being  a little slow.  You need to emphasise a return date, then they are good.  Just too busy. No connection with them other than a satisfied customer. Roger

Just to throw more spanners in the works. The 1950's Laycock (overdrive0 service manual shouted from the roof tops DO NOT USE EP oils. The ingredients could get baked by the cone clutch and leave solid particles in the system and block the odd oilway or two I appreciate that oils have changed over the years and may not do this. EP oils are primarily for Hypoid gear types where there is serious sliding of the gear teeth. This sliding is seriously reduced in a helical gear to a point where it can be ignored (almost !!). Oils are designed for applications. So if somebody like Penrite say this is a gearbox/OD oil then that is it for me Roger (Tin hat on)

Hi Folks,             Tim Hunt Swayed me to go Ferodo FDR167. Did nearly 3000miles around Scotlandshire earlier this month. Worked very well. I also was a GreenStuff user but have given up on them now. Pads from Burton Engineering. Roger

Hi Dazzer,              I'm amazed that ORS recommended engine oil.  Most (not all) engine oils contain quite a lot of detergent to keep the internals clean. This could lead to frothing in a gearbox and cause the OD pump to stop working. When my OD repairer (Hardy at Leatherhead) recommended engine oil I said I was going to use Penrite GB40 and he said that is the same grade. So are we talking engine oil or 20/50 or SAE40??? IOt's a mine field out there Roger

Hi Iain & JJ,                     I did say that there were lots of permutations to locking/torquing etc. You misunderstand what I was getting at - so I'm wrong. Fair enough. Roger

Hi Folks,               the torque loading is also determined by the materials being held together, type of bolt, locking mechanism etc. You wouldn't tighten down a decent steel bolt to a very high load if holding Aluminium plates together. You wouldn't necessarily need to use a high torque when using spring washers Lots of permutations. Roger

Hi Dave,               use the boots. Even the stainless pistons will pick up on rust from the caliper body, Roger

Hi Dave,                 'hot' wiring the coil is not an issue as long as the engine is running - no different to have the Ig switch in place. However once stopped the wire MUST be disconnected. Roger

Hi John,           about 10 years ago I got a 165x15 Hankook, balanced etc for £10.  I think the shop wanted rid of it. I do all my tyres at this one place Roger

Hi Dave,           so you tried shouting at it and it didn't work - a stubborn bu99er. Have you tried swearing at it. As mentioned above warm the plastic with a hair dryer. Also warm the metal nozzle on  the gauge. if left cold it will instantly chill the plastic. DON'T get the nozzle glowing red - bad idea. Swearing is still an option. Roger

Hi Mick,            over the last couple of years there have been a few questions asked about the Lucas sports coil. The biggest is that it is not a Lucas product. Many have been failing, probably a quality/price issue. Roger

Hi Dave,           as mentioned that should be fairly easily knocked out. When you put it back use one of the Silicon RTV gasket goo's with the cork gasket. Roger

If you consider how much the seals deflect when under pressure I would have thought there was no problem. The seals move virtually nowhere as they are already in close contact. They probably  deflect more upon returning to their 'off' position. Roger

Hi Folks,             from post #1 - why do they stick. Somebody mentioned moisture. Moisture gets everywhere. The very very small gap between the clutch plate and the flywheel will hold enough moisture to cause the flywheel to rust. You may not be able to even see the rust but it is there. This rust binds with the coarse matrix of the clutch plate- The result is. it is stuck. It may be possible to press the clutch pedal down and keep it there whilst in store. It will not stop the rust but will stop the binding. Roger

Hi Marcus,               that is a challenge.  On my TR4A head the squish area tapers in bit the undercutting around the valves tapers out - ooh eck. Roger

Hi Folks,                  NPT is a taper thread and would naturally seal by simply tightening. BSP could be tapered if stated (BSPT) Does sound odd though.  There are a number of oddities on the ST cars.  Eg. Overdrive inhibit switch thread size. People say it is 16x2mm   but it has 13tpi. Roger

Hi Wim,             I bought one of these last year. This is the current price  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like.....7&_qi=RTM2063747 Roger

I can;t believe it.   Our cars are worth between £5,000 and £50,000 and we are looking at 4 plastic spoons and a hand drill. Stunned. Roger

Hi Matt,               be careful in saving money on bearings. The TRiumph specialists don;t always use the best quality and the high street bearing suppliers have a range of bearings/prices. IE - on a TR diff - from supplier M there is a choice of two bearings for a certain position - one is £15 and the other is £72. There must be a difference in quality there somewhere Make sure you get what you actually need. Roger

Hi JJ,           give Martin (Dizzy Doc) a call  http://www.distributordoctor.com/contact.php Roger