Hogie
-
Posts
524 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Hogie
-
Check the volts at the bulbs with engine off. Should be exactly the same battery volts. If not your wiring is dicky. Check earth continuity to battery (via the body). Should be very low - 0.1 ohms. Any volts drop or high resistance will degrade the light output. Install a relay so that the bulbs are powered direct from the battery (or thereabouts) (using thicker cable) with the relay being activated by the light switch. Fit Halogen bulbs as stated above Roger
-
Cracks very much can start and propagate in a compressive environment. ;D ;D ;D Roger
-
Hi 69V, cracks are not deisrable ; however a 'crack' in a compression mode will not propagate. Even a'relax-compression-relax' mode will not make it propagate. As Alec states the 'nick' looks like a profile change as shown on the other rockers. If the rocker broke because of the 'nick' then you would see signs on the fracture face indicating that. I believe the arm snapped in one sudden event as indicated by the bent/broken push rod. Roger
-
I thought that was what you were getting at. There does indeed appear to be a small indentation in the edge section. However this is on the compression side of the arm so wouldn't be heavily loaded. Looking at the surface structure of the crack face it looks as though it was an instantaneous clean break. The push rod is seriously bent and broken suggesting a siezed valve. Roger
-
Why! Roger
-
I don't know if anybody has tried to re-harden rocker arm contact faces but has one considered applying a coating of hard weld material. You can get welding stcks of all grades. Specific ones for applying a hardened surface may work. Easy enough to apply and grind back to shape. The bush is simple enough. Would an over hard rocker pad be too unkind on the valve stem. Roger
-
My hair dryer reply appears a little skimpy having read all the above. The question was draining the sump. Clearly if we are draining then refilling and running then that's a different proposition. To add to the posts above when you come to run with whatever oily stuff you put in it may be worth removing the plugs and spinning the engine to get the oil pumped around the engine with no load on the mains/big-end. As JohnD states cheap oil to start with then reload with good stuff and a new filter. You could simple run the enigne in the drive for an hour or so. This will put minimal load on the bearing. Roger
-
Hi Ray, after this time nearly call the oil will be in the sump. To thin the oil slightly you could play a heat gun on the bottom of the sump for a few minutes that should make it flow out better. Roger
-
Just to highjack this thread for a mo. I often see UJ spiggots with serious grooving in at a slight angle. Clearly the grooves are made by the needle rollers. My question !!! Why do they use needle rollers compared to a solid bush? Is it purely to allow for better lubrication. Roger
-
Hi Tim, who does you UJ's, mine last easily 5-10 years +. To do both sides (4 uj's) takes about a day. How many UJ's could you buy for one CV drive shaft? Roger
-
Mixing oils in general is not a clever idea as you do not know what effect the different constituents will have on each other. On the TRiumph gearbox/Overdrive you can put almost anything in and it will work - not sure how good soapy water is though. Gearboxes are interesting things. They have no Extreme Pressure components yet some manufacturers (TRiumph in particular) recommend EP oils Overdrives had a major warning in the 50's not to use EP oil due to comination of the clutch but TRiumph changed that as well. Unbelievably gearbox oil works pretty well in gearboxes and makes O/D's perform 100%. ATF works even better. Thicker oil will quieten things down and possibly reduce the odd leak. However thicker oil in the O/D could produce too much pressure in the pump and or not drain away quickly causing the O/D clutch to drag. At the end of the day put in what you are happy with but don;t mix them. Roger
-
Hi Alec, you are quite right but sadly most people do not understand things electric or the joining of metals. The crimp will work perfectly on its own. Roger
-
I would not recommend soldering after crimping. A good quality crimp will hold forever. Nearly all aircraft connection are by crimping. There is a risk that the flux used in the soldering process could corrode the copper wire or the connector itself. Roger
-
Do these actually work? I have tried some white ones with the screw in base on my TR4A and they were useless. Roger
-
Halfords seem to get the blame for everything. Do they actually sell the A and B relay type or just the more popular 'B' type. if they only sell the one type then they wouldn't know any different. How many people on this forum knew there were two types. In West London you have Halfords or the indian corner shop. Roger
-
I've had County pistons in my 4A for the last 15 years (140,000miles) with no problems. I wonder how they took the hardness readings. The Rockwell tester uses quite a high impact force (Rockwell C uses 150lbs) to feel the subsurface hardness. There are superficial testers that 'replicate' Rockwell but use 1 or 2Kg so only testing the top few thou. Anything can affect the readings. Roger
-
Have a word with Newman Cams Roger
-
(oh)
-
The effect of insert a rod into the hole/bore through the vertical link or stub axle would depend on the diameter of the hole/bore. As it is very close to the centralo axis it may have no effect at all. What material would you use!! Roger
-
As just mentioned the best practice is for some form of regular maintenance. Keep the grease/oil going in at least annually and perhaps every2/3/4 years strip it down. If there are signs of corrosion then cleaning and crack checking (MPI) would be a good idea. Where do you go for MPI (magnetic particle Inspection) - there are quite a few places out there that do it but the best place is an aircraft maintenance area - Heathrow, Stanstead, Gatwick - you must know somebody who works there. Roger
-
..and how was it calculated that the trunnion is under extreme pressure !!. The thread in the trunnion has a good deal of contact with the vertical link attachment thread. If somebody would like to do the maths you may find that the pressure isn;t that great. However lubrication is required all the time. Grease is a good lubricant in the correct application but doesn't flow like a thick oil - in fact it hardly flows at all. You could use a semi-fluid grease (Penrite). The Steel/Brass material combination allows for the use of grease as the lubricant can become embedded in the brass to maintain lubrication. If you are going to use EP oil make sure that the bottom of the trunnion is leak-proof, if necessary solder it up. EP140 may be a better bet than EP90. Both oil and grease work well. Roger
-
Hi Alex, if it is a smallish hole then K-seal should do it. Roger
-
Hi Tim, I have one you can borrow (Hayes Middx) - hydraulic on wheels works well on an TR4. Roger
-
Well, I've been having fun. It would appear that Moss supply dizzy vacuum pipe parts for a SU carb with a biggish hole (apprx 5.16"). Mine has a smallish hole (apprx 7mm). The female union to adaptor kerflummoxed the counter staff and have sent the offending article off to R&D to sort. The male union would have been handy but again too big. After lots of investigating I popped into the TRShop in Chiswick and they had a male fitting for the smaller (7mm) hole. So I am now a happy bunny. Hi Richard, I did speak to Burlen and bought the AUC5100 adaptor but sadly the Moss female wouldn't fit to it. Roger
-
Hi Folks, my TR4 has H6 carbs. The vacuum pipe (201875) that attaches to the front carb has a female union at both ends. The Moss catalogue shows this union as the same part number either end (6K650) On the carb there is an adaptor (AUC 5100) the thread on this carb does not thread into the female union. Does anybody know if this female union should be exclusive to this adaptor and the catalogue is wrong. Roger
