Hogie
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Everything posted by Hogie
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Hi Sam, clean ALL the connectors from the battery + & - cables. Remove and clean ALL the earth cables to engine and chassis/body form ther battery. I also have fitted an earth strap from battery direct to engine rather than relying on a possible path via the body. Clean the inside of the battery connectors. You only need the odd volt dropped to kill a cold engine/battery. Roger
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Proptech # 01299 251247 Their splined drive shafts are excellent. Don't know if they do the hubs as well. If they do they will be good. Roger
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Hi Sam, have you tried these people for your rivets and screws http://www.jcrsupplies.co.uk/products/STARTER_MOTOR_REPAIR_PARTS/STARTER_MOTOR_PARTS/LUCAS_M35J_STARTER_MOTOR_FIELD_COILS_TEB121_REF965.html Roger
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The TR4A was introduced in January 1965 at commission number CTC 50001 and ran until August 1967 to CTC 78684. Working on an approximate pro rata basis it would be about Jan/Feb 66 (13th month at apprx 1000/month) Roger
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Hi, Thanks for the link. I did look there and the general thought is - disconnect the battery for 15+ minutes (remember radio code). The SID clear button does not do it - I tried in desperation. Tomorrow will show one way or the other. many thanks for your reply. Roger
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Hi Folks, yesterday on my way to Gaydon the panel warning lights came on (engine symbol and a sprocket). A few miles later coming off the motorway it felt like the clutch was slipping - auto box!!!!! Made it to Gaydon and was eventually Relayed home - Thank you very much Mr.AA man, excellent service. This morning I found that the pipe/banjo union from G/B to radiator had come loose - something to do with hitting a kerb the previous night!!!. Fixed the pipe, stopped the leak, topped up G/B with 4Ltr of Dexron 111. The question - is it possible to reset the warning lights myself or is it a Garage job. It's a Saab 95 2002 Arc Auto. Roger PS thankfully the gearbox appears to have escaped unharmed
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Hi Carl, try and repair everything you have. New floors are a good but most other things are not. The sills are very iffy. I believe the front and rear valence are not available. If you use what you already have alignment problems will be reduced. Roger
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Hi Carl, try and repair everything you have. New floors are a good but most other things are not. The sills are very iffy. I believe the front and rear valence are not available. If you use what you already have alignment problems will be reduced. Roger
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Tiredness in old age is not a problem. It is having to get out of the car every 5 miles for a wee. Roger
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I've not heard that fix before - it sounds frightful but it works. Roger
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Hi, I photo'd each car coming out of the plough - front on, side etc. CT Banner on most, Pub on all. If anybody want any please ask. I think they are all about 5Mpix but can be reduced. Roger
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Standing in the rain yesterday watching/photgraphing all the cars leaving the plough - I thought b*ll*x, I should be in this lot. I allowed my co-driver(son) to talk me out of it this year. I had a master plan that was foolproof to over come the tiredness issue etc. Roll on 2014 Roger
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Good luck and safe driving to all
Hogie replied to Stag74's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Hi RBRR'ers, best of luck on your journey. I should be with you but my co-driver told me NO!!!! Drive carefully, enjoy the pies - and stay awake. Roger -
Hi Roger.... What do you class as 'normal' gear oil for a classic car gearbox you have to think back in the 60's on these cars mechanicals? Dextron or similar will leak...well everywere on a 60's gearbox. Normal gear oil - non EP. Gearbox gears are designed not to act in an EP mode - the lobes roll over each other as opposed to sliding. You could still use an 80 or 90 grade but without the EP additives. Just my view. I know in the early days that EP was frowned on if there was an O/D fitted to the G/B - some concern that the EP additives break down and bung up the O/D oilways. More modern EP's are more stable. However having said all that you could probably run most Triumph stuff on cooking fat and get away with it. Roger
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Hi Folks, enough said, go by the book. A small benefit of the thicker oil is it doesn't escape so readily. Roger
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Is EP oil really required as the gears in a gearbox (as opposed to a dfiff) are not EP types. Don;t know anything about Spitfires and what TRiumph suggest but surely a normal gear oil is what should be used. I shall now duck below the parapet. Roger
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Hi John, I think the coating is nearer to 0.002" per layer rather than a millimeter. Clearly there must be some reduction in heat transfer but as you say is it useful - almost certainly not. Roger
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Hi Mikey, Zircotec - ceramic - should be good but haven't tried it. Expensive. Cam Coat - Ceramic - excellent, lasting finish. Various colours. Not sure how effective the thermal barrier really is though. My TR4a has this. TechLine - ceramic aerosol paint - not tried it but a TR Reg member has reported back with good results as to finish. VHT - aerosol paint - looks good for a while but could break off if the prep' is poor. The above has nothing to do with me, I'm just a satisfied customer. Roger
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you need all the items that connect to the crank etc. Roger
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I've had my TR4A on the road for 14 years. Within the first year the clutch fluid turned black (brake fluid fine). After a couple of years I dismantled the master cylinder gave it a thorough clean, new seals, bled the brakes. Within months the fluid was black and has stayed the same for 10 years +. No affect on the clutch operation at all. Leave as is and marvel at what Triumph can do. Roger
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Hi Alan, when testing the wipers ensure that either the windscreen is wet or the blades are lifted away from the glass. Roger
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Hi John, which car? if a TR could it be the taper pin in the fork. Roger
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Hi Alan, off at top, side, mains. Take it slow and think about each connection. You don't want to melt the loom. Roger
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Hi Alan, as Keith has said the number plate lights wiring runs along the overridder stabiliser then through the rear valance bumper iron hole then up to the inner wing wiring access hole - use plenty of plastic ties to keep in place. Try and keep any connectors inside the boot area as water from the wheels will get into and annoy the leccy bits if possible. Again the light switch is as keith states - spot on. The Haynes manual has the TR4A circuit diagram but not the 4. Roger
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Most of the 'better' acid dip treatments do not have residue dripping from seams after the process. The excess does drip out fairly rapidly, any small amounts left in the seams get 'used up' by the chemical process so shouldn't cause a nuisance. What you do get is a clean seam which is not possible with grit blasting. Be very careful shot blasting panels - you may distort them. Soda blasting is far better from this point. Paint stripping works well. Another good stripper on e-bay is Synstrip PS50 from StarChem - apprx £26/5Lts. removes anything including skin!!!. Roger
