Hogie
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Everything posted by Hogie
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If you want a short term protection then ordinary primer will suit your purpose. It can easily be washed off with thinners and a rag. Epoxy primer is much more stubborn and expensive. Etch primer will give no extra benefit as it is porous. If the panel does get any flash rusting then wash off with something like DeOx-C. Grit blasting/abrasive paper will not remove deep seated rust - all rust is deep seated (intergranular) TRy and keep the tub dry and airy.Roger
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Hi Doug, are you saying the bottom UJ that attaches to the steering rack spline is rotating (slightly) about the spline. If you have the metal UJ as fitted to most TR6's then the clamp on the splines needs tightening. However if you have the rubber coupling then there is a problem. The 2 clamps on the rubber couplings cannot be tightened fully as the steel clamp has/was manufactured badly. If you study the clamp you will see the gap that should provide the clamping has metal in it. This metal needs cutting away. I shall try and post a pic - but it may not work. Roger
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What car is it and can the tank come out? If the tank can't be easily removed then that makes life very awkward. Steam cleaning as John states is the best way if possible. Whatever you do please be careful when shining torches etc into the tank if it has petrol still in it - it can explode (even if the bl**dy stuff doesn't go woof in the cylinders. Roger
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May not be of help but the replacement rubber gaiter on the gear lever of my TR4A kept biasing the lever out of gear when in thrid. Have you also got a dicky gaiter. Roger
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Am I right in thinking that your TR6 gearbox is fitted to a GT6 (as in the pic). Thus regarding below access - not sure!!. The wiring diagrams in the attachment are for the TR range so you will need a GT6 diagram. Roger
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Good point about the filter. Whilst in that area I take it that you have checked to see that you have enough oil in the gearbox. What oil do you use (if any!!) It would appear that if it has any association with oil then it has been used over the years - gear oil, diff oil, engine oil + all the various grades. I believe in using gear oil in gear boxes and use Penrite SAE 40 - works well, but then do all the others (usually) Roger
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Access is not good from below. Some cars have a hole in the tunnel next to the solenoid (if the PO put one in) and just needs the pax seat and carpet removing. Any of the cheap digital meters will do for what you want. Gunson do some good cheap models (halfords etc). The red positive lead goes into the red socket on the meter and black goes to black. Rotate the switch to Volts DC it may have a symbol of a V with a straight line next to it with a dotted line beneath it. AC has a wavy line. Switch to a Voltage range immediately above 12V - eg 20V. Place the black lead on the chassis or negavtive pole of the battery. Place the red lead on the wire/tag your testing - if live you should have 12volts. 12volts is nominal for the car it may be higher (13.7 ish) or lower depending on the fault. Try it on the battery first to get an understanding. I see in your picture that there is an uninsulated connector hanging around. This may not be a good idea on the O/D as a lot of it works by making the earth conection and your connector may make earth at the wrong time. You should have a J type O/D with no relay for the solenoid so checking the wiring should be fairly straight foward If you haven't got a wiring diagram check this out http://www.advanceautowire.com Roger
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Hi, the TR O/D electrics is fairly basic. However the fault may not be electrical but you have to start somewhere. To check the electrics - ignition on, select 4th gear and flip the column switch - was there a clunk from the O/D solenoid. If yes but the O/D still doesn;t work then either the solenoid is not positioned correctly and not rotating the arm far enough or the internal gubbins is dicky. If the solenoid did not go clunk then apply 12v directly to the solenoid - if it doesn't go clunk then the solenoid is dicky. If it did go clunk then the wiring from column switch to inhibit switches are dicky. On the righthand side of the gear box there is a lever that rotates with the solenoid action. This has an alignment hole that needs to be set correctly. Roger
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Back in the 60's as an apprentice at BEA some of my collegues would put aircraft hydraulic oil (DTD585) in with the 2 stroke. It smelt not unlike Castrol R. Roger
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Hi Folks, so we have myths, placebo's, Redex, 2 stroke oil and ethanol. However no absolute answer. Is there any benefit in putting 2 stroke oil in the petrol in absolute terms? Roger
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Would be much the same as adding RedeX I would have thought. Can't do any harm but won't nullify the effects of ethanol on the rubber bits etc. Roger
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Hi Tim, each hinge has three screws into the 'A' post. There should be plenty of free play in this area to allow what you need. However has the door always been tight/touching the 'B' post. If not why has it closed up. It may be worth investigating the chassis for any problems. Likewise if there is insufficient play at the '' post and the chassis etc is in good order then it may be possible to remove chassis to body shims to allow the rear body/'B' post to sit back a little. Roger
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Hi Tim, each hinge has three screws into the 'A' post. There should be plenty of free play in this area to allow what you need. However has the door always been tight/touching the 'B' post. If not why has it closed up. It may be worth investigating the chassis for any problems. Likewise if there is insufficient play at the '' post and the chassis etc is in good order then it may be possible to remove chassis to body shims to allow the rear body/'B' post to sit back a little. Roger
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uuummm, interesting comments. The alternator will give consistently higher voltage than the dynamo, however the dynamo will still produce more than enough to drive the Halogen bulbs. The battery still needs to be charged so something higher than 12V must be available (13.7v) The halogen bulbs must be the same power as the normal filament bulbs as that is the law - you can't have massive blinding 100watters in the front. So fit relays close(ish) to the bulbs (short cable lengths are good) fit the halogens (no extra amps involved). If the amps do not increase then the voltage should not be compromised. Warning - with the halogens on don't switch on your 1000watt radio, rad fan, or electric toaster. Roger
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Hi Chris, Not recommended on the TR series of engines is the general comment. The rockers survive OK on their own. Replace when knackered. Roger
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Hi Alec, regarding the angular shape - it is a bit abrupt but I'm sure it is practicle. More Lady Gaga than Maddona inmy mind. Roger
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There is a Sabrina engine in London somewhere but it is going nowhere. I believe there are some in Germany. Although finishing LeMans the engines didn't perform that well. A chap in the TR Register created his own Sabrina from an Alpha engine. He manufacturered the 'Sabrina' cam covers and sourced a pair of DU6's. The carbs were the most expensive part of the engine project. Quite an impressive Repro/TRibute call it what you may. Roger
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Hi Colin, thanks for replying. Not sure if it is a TR6 item but I don't think so. I would be suprised that Triumph would modify it just for mud etc - but you never know. It looks to me more of a mechanical lock/stop indent - but then what would be moving/rotating - a mystery. What do Stags and other things have!!! Roger
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Hi Folks, a collegue of mine has a query on his TR4A trailing arms. The off side arm has part # 307053 cast into it (not the Moss assembly #) and looks correct. The Near side arm has part# 307055 cast into it. This has TWO odd things - the depression where the spring fits has a slot cast across the hole in the bottom. Also the two notched brackets were fitted upside down (alarm bells). Does anybody know what/which car has this odd trailing arm (307055 cast into it and a slot cast across the hole in the spring support). Does anybody know where to source a near side arm #307052 cast onto lower face. Roger
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For the ignition light - it may just be worn brushes. As the armature speeds up it throws the worn/shoter brushes off as the spring pressure is less. Roger
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Hi Aaron, assuming the engine turns over nicely and the push rods are not bent it could simply be fatigue in the rocker. The underside of the rocker is considerably thinner than the top and it takes all the tensile loads. The loading, although sort of constant, varies with the speed in that stresses within the stressed area have less time to ease off as the revs increase. Any nicks/scratches/chips in the stressed area could easily propagate and turn into cracks then failure. Is it possible for your chum to clean the rocker and take a good close-up pic of the fracture faces. The top of the rocker should show a clean break. Whereas the bottom of the rocker may show ridges (beach marks) stepping across the fracture face. Roger
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I would have thought the difference between a tapered (coned) seat and a Barrel or sleeved nut was a bit obvious. Both are used for these types of wheel and may or may not require the studs removing for longer/shorted ones. Wheels with the barrel/sleeve nut can get away with the short stud. The tapered nut wheel has some variables to contend with. Contact MWS at Coventry - they do all variations. Roger
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Ammeter should have a 'P'. But it makes it hard to pronounce. So you make it a silent 'P' and replace it with an apostrophe. Eventually the apostrophe goes for a burton. I'm not good with slight tangents. I'm more into the double helix and disappearing up somewhere the sun don't shine. Most baths that contain children have a silent P Roger
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Hi Andy, ammeter should be am'meter as it is a silent 'P' as in bath. It is quite uncomfortable to say amp meter - much nicer ammeter. I believe ALL digital meters do current. Haven't a clue about thumbs. Roger
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Hi, there is still more to fuses than the above. Hit the link below and go to Fuses. Don't have one fuse for both headlights. Have a smaller fuse for each. http://www.wmbgbrit.com/maintenance_british_sportcar.htm Roger
