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Matt George

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Everything posted by Matt George

  1. Matt George
    Will you be getting any more front wheel arch repair panels done Lloyd?
  2. Matt George
    I've got an 'A' type fitted to my 2500 on HS6s. From memory the clearance is tight between the battery and alternator, but it does clear. May be due to the fact that the battery is quite a big one. My unit is an uprated 65amp one for a Stag. Something like this… http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-.....MH5l-1Fv09Qb-eG0jQKg Cheers, Matt
  3. Matt George
    Sorry for the slight thread drift, but can I ask a question about the Stag setup Phil… what parts did you need to use to make them fit? I've got some refurbed Stag calipers for my MkII, but not sure exactly what else I need. Obviously discs, then backing plate, but what else? And will my existing braided hoses fit, or do they need swapping as well? Cheers, Matt
  4. Matt George
    Colin – I've got 1144s and otherwise standard MkII brakes, and the pads have made a big difference. So much more stopping power. In fact if the caliper swap turns out to be redundant then I may well just stay with the uprated pads. Fitting them over standard has definitely made a difference. Matt
  5. Matt George
    What are the differences in Stag versus 2000 MkII calipers. I know (believe) the Stag discs are 270mm plays the 2000 ones at 247mm, but is anything else in the caliper changed? Bigger pistons? Matt
  6. Matt George
    I have MkII ARB, progressive CW front springs and Konis, 575 rears with Konis. 15" wheels 195/65 and GKN Rilsan-coated shafts. Reckon this will all work well with Stag calipers, MkII drums, servo and master cyl? Cheers in advance 🙂
  7. Matt George
    Cheers guys, will bear that in mind. So to utilise the Stag calipers then I do need to fit a Stag master cyl and servo? Is this simple enough on the MkII? Likewise, will I suffer imbalance if I stick with the MkII drums rather than Stag ones? Matt
  8. Matt George
    I got a pair of Stag calipers on ebay for £16 recently… it's finding drums and everything else I need for the rear end that's proving problematic! Not to mention deciding what to do with the servo etc.
  9. Matt George
    James Shackford can source brand new Konis, for a very reasonable price as well.
  10. Matt George
    Dad's TR6 arrived home today, thankfully unscathed 🙂
  11. Matt George
    All, Thanks for the replies, certainly some food for thought here. I have CW 205/400 springs on the front and 575s on the back, Konis all round. As hinted at originally, the car does handle very well and surprised on the 10CR in terms of how far we could push it. Certainly didn't experience any understeer or oversteer. Perhaps I am actually trying to address the wrong issue/an issue that isn't actually there… Taking some weight out of the car is definitely on my list of things to do, but might be worth running the car without the ARB to see what difference that makes. Thanks again, Matt
  12. Matt George
    I don't know, my logic may be entirely wrong, so any other insight is welcome…
  13. Matt George
    Hi Julian, I've currently got a standard Stag/2500 bar fitted at the moment. I believe they're both the same rating and definitely fit the same crossmember. Mine being a 2000 it didn't have a bar originally, so I swapped the crossmember and TCAs accordingly. With uprated dampers and springs all round the car corners nicely and certainly digs in/holds the road well. i'd just like to try and flatten it out further,a thought that occurred to me while attacking the mountain passes on the 10CR, hence why I'm considering a stronger ARB. Yes, all the Monarch stuff is technically intended for a Stag, but will also fit a saloon. So I've also got the uprated GKN driveshafts for example. Cheers, Matt
  14. Matt George
    Hello all, I'm considering fitting a stiffer front ARB to my 2000, however I don't fancy paying £250 for a new 1in version from Monarch. So my questions are two-fold… A – Has anybody got a seconfdhand item they'd be prepared to sell? B – Has anyone out there fitted an uprated bar from a different source/come up with something of their own design? Cheers in anticipation, Matt
  15. Matt George
    Gary, The Unipart number is GFE227. Fram equivalent is PH2964, Champion is C114. I called my local motor factor and asked them to cross-reference the Unipart number against filters on the computer system. Found me a generic filter that fits – I forget the brand – but I've just completed the 10CR with it on and no problems 🙂 Cheers, Matt
  16. Matt George
    If that's the case, then Dad made it to Rolduc, so not technically an event failure either 🙂 Matt
  17. Matt George
    I have successfully sourced a replacement co-driver, so we are back on track Done a fair bit to the car over the past few months… New Rilsan-coated driveshafts have removed the play from the drivetrain, Mintexs 1144s have been bedded in and are proving impressively effective and I've finally(!) sorted the niggly, sticky clutch after many years and many box in/out jobs. It now works perfectly and smoothly, so i'm very happy Revotec sucker is also wired up and operating as it should. Had the wheels balanced last week – one was 85g out, the other 120! So that will help as well. Oil and coolant changed. Need to wash the car and spruce up the interior this week, but basically we're good to go!
  18. Matt George
    Taking the gearbox out at the weekend to try and get to the bottom of a sticky clutch issue. Fingers crossed we get it sorted!
  19. Matt George
    Sorry, just realised the captive issue, so my idea might not work after all!
  20. Matt George
    I mounted a sucking fan behind my radiator by using the existing radiator bolts. Could you do something similar in front of the rad?
  21. Matt George
    Cheers Roy 🙂
  22. Matt George
    Any ideas of places to get MLB40 1144s from? TSSC have them listed at £69, just wondering if anyone else knows a cheaper supplier? Matt
  23. Matt George
    Hello all, I'm looking for a more performance-oriented clutch for my 2500 saloon, and came across some DriveTorque clutch kits on eBay. Taking the description as read, the Stage 1 or Stage 2 versions sound good to me, but I'd appreciate knowing if anyone on here has any experience of them please? Thanks in anticipation :) Quoted on the ad: DriveTorque Stage 1 Clutch Kits are designed for the Modified Fast Road Car. They are suitable for cars with up to 25% greater horsepower & torque than the standard production model. They give a 25 - 30% increase in torque capacity & clamp load, whilst still retaining the pedal feel of a standard clutch. DriveTorque Stage 1 Clutch Kits contain a Heavy Duty Clutch Cover & either a Carbon Kevlar or Alloy Backed 215mm Drive Plate. DriveTorque Stage 2 Clutch Kits are designed for the Significantly Modified Fast Road Car or Track Car. They are suitable for cars with 25% to 40% increased horsepower & torque than the standard production model. They give a significant increase in torque capacity & clamp load, and so are able to perform on the track as well as on the street. DriveTorque Stage 2 Clutch Kits contain a Heavy Duty Clutch Cover & a High Strength 215mm Kevlartek Drive Plate. Full links below: STAGE 1 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DriveTorque-Stage-1-Clutch-Kit-Rover-Triumph-2500-2-5i-10-67-04-75/231535676190?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31101%26meid%3Daa426f7b6492494b831844a428dd9bb7%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121629231976&rt=nc STAGE 2 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DriveTorque-Stage-2-Clutch-Kit-Rover-Triumph-2500-2-5i-10-67-04-75/121629231976?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31101%26meid%3D1413f85ef647460a97caede6360b6391%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D231535676190&rt=nc STAGE 3 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DriveTorque-Stage-3-Clutch-Kit-Rover-Triumph-2500-2-5i-10-67-04-75/121630926216?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31101%26meid%3D47bd1e38e9044acb802cafe034c8e7a3%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D231535676190&rt=nc
  24. Matt George
    Well I'm another one in the sans bumpers club  ;) My car is currently away getting the front valance and nearside sill put back to Saffron, after doing the RBRR in grey primer. Also got the diff back in – looks like the majority of the slop in the drivetrain is due to worn driveshafts, so I've sourced a set of uprated, Rilsan coated versions from EJ Ward. Looking forward to getting the car back and doing a few miles running up to the 10CR :) Matt
  25. Matt George
    Good stuff Laurence :) How is the TR coming along? M
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