thebrookster

And a further question. What are people's thoughts regarding spring rates between front and back? Obviously I understand that I over time I can try different rates on the front and rear to find a setup that suits, but what is a good starting point? As far as I know I have uprated 1" lower springs on the rear, though I have yet to determine exactly what the "uprated" actually is, and standard springs on the front. My immediate thoughts are to get a pair of progressives from Chris for the front, but I am wondering about compatability issues with the rear springs. Would I therefore be better off getting a set of progressives for the rear to match? Or another option Mr Shackford has thrown in the mix is a set of lowered 625lb springs for the rear, which he suggests work well with the rear koni dampers I am getting from him. Would these work with the progressives on the front maybe? To simplify, same all round vs high rear/prog front vs low rear/high or prog front? What works for you, and just as importantly what doesn't work/should be avoided? Setup as stands will be superflex bushes all round, koni rear dampers and prob koni fronts as well, prob lowered an inch. I await your thoughts with interest! Cheers, Phil

Cheers guys, def food for thought. I shall do some costing up over the next few days and see how big a dent my bank will be taking   I have seen this guy mentioned many times now, but nowhere have I found details for how to contact him! Can someone please enlighten me? Cheers, Phil

That's my issue Ted, ringing ain't gonna be an option as I work when Chris is open and and am off when he is closed! AFAIK the current fronts are single rate, hence changing them. Cheers, Phil

Hi all from rainy Rotterdam (well, Europort really). I have recently had sourced a set of Stag Hubs/Calipers/Struts/Discs for my Mk1. Now, aside from the usual brake related stuff, are there any other "upgrades" I should be looking at? Thinking of a Chris Witor order, and have the following thoughts in mind already: Progressive front springs New Shocks Superflex Bushes Spring Insulators Shock Gaitors So, what have people got, or can recommend to me? Bear in mind I like to drive fast From memory, I have progressive rear springs already fitted? However Rear Shocks may have to be added to the list.... Also, if anyone can list the bushes I require please do, I don't have a manual with me onboard the ship!! Cheers, Phil

Well, that is good to know Nick, maybe tweaking the travel will not be needed after all. I have just re-found the post I saw about tweaking the pedal travel, it appears it was made by Andy on the register forum and relates to changing the pushrod lengths on the servo? So I can keep that in mind as well if need be. Cheers, Phil

So I take it that was a complete conversion (is front/rear & Master cyl) was it Andy? If so, it certainly goes quite a way in convincing me that keeping the rest of the setup the same may well be the better route for me! I shall try and find the post that refers to modifying the master cylinder to reduce pedal travel, think I found it on the register forum. That may well be the best option and means I don't have to disrupt too much. Cheers, Phil

Pondering the same questions myself just now Matt! From my wanderings around the internet over the last couple of hours I seem to have concluded that on my setup the original Mk1 Master Cyl and Servo will work, but give me a longer pedal, though there may be methods to reduce this. What I am currently trying to find out is what system is better? Single line or dual line? Can anyone give a succinct Pro/Con list of the two? The other issue that you have also identified is a potential imbalance between front/rear. Again, I have not found anything definitive on this, other than references to it on various forums. I have found references to various people running the Mk1 rears with upgraded fronts due to keeping the manual adjuster, but I think this was in relation to using the Mk2 setup? Cheers, Phil

If you get a chance to check Richard I should be very grateful! Cheers, Phil

Alec - I likewise was intending on keeping the rear drums the same. Still the same question - I take it I do need to do the hubs at the same time? And another question - anyone got any suggestions as too where I can source things like callipers etc? Obviously I am keeping my eyes on ebay etc, but most traders these days want to do it on an exchange basis, and obviously I don't have exchange callipers in this instance! Surely someone somewhere must break and sell parts from dead cars?? Cheers, Phil

Aye, winter wheels are 14", and when I sort out the summer setup that will be a 15" rim. TBH it was not so much the stopping power I was concerned about as more the cost of parts. Kind of felt that if I could lay my hands on a Stag setup it would be better than the Mk2 setup (more stopping power and cheaper parts), however it would appear that they are also to get hold off! So maybe Mk2 setup will have to be the way forward. What I have just now is borderline as it stands, OK for normal driving around but if I put a bit more spirit into my driving I start noticing limitations, and if and when I get around to EFI/Exhaust etc and increase the power an upgrade will be necessary. So it seemed that now was a good time to start sorting things out, as I am heading back to sea in a couple of weeks, so essentially have a couple of months in which to purchase the relevant stuff. Cheers, Phil

Good day all, Quick query. I am looking at upgrading my brakes after the MOT highlighted how worn my front pads are. I do have a set of NOS pads from Chris Witor, but they are the ones that don't quite fit properly (I need to shave the back of them in order to make them fit). So I started thinking that maybe I should simply upgrade the brakes to the thicker discs, as I still have the original Mk1 setup. Perusal of here and Triumph register suggests I can go for either Stag or Mk2 setups, and it appears the Stag setup is cheaper long run. However, I have seen suggestions that I may need to change parts such as hubs for these conversions? Can someone kindly give me a quick list of what parts I am looking for? If I can find some Stag calipers I shall go down that route, otherwise it might have to be the Mk2 setup. Cheers, Phil

Well, MOT is done and passed!! I was a wee bit concerned this morning driving in as I had a slight stutter, which I was fairly confident was the fuel filter being choked. And I had left my spare at home. But fortunately traffic was slow, so got her over to Helensburgh. MOT went well, the garage were very helpful (and in fact had me assisting as the lad admitted he was out his depth!) Technically my front pads were borderline fail, but as I could show him the full set of NOS pads in car waiting to go on, he said if it passed the brake test he put it as an advisory. Fine. We also discussed the Brake test, and mutually agreed to ignore the roller, and instead go the old fashioned route of a decelerometer. Perfect, except the car would not start! So I got stuck in. Pump was not pumping, so they found a replacement filter (well found a couple old ones then found a new one) which was fitted. No luck. Blew back up the fuel line from the pump, flowing fine. Then I removed the pipe from the carbs and the pump started pumping. After a short while I got fuel. My guess there was vapourlock. Except I still could not start the engine! The I realised the lads (I had several of them round the car at this point) had helpfully tried pulling the choke out, except the engine was already hot! No wonder she would not start. Choke back in, couple of turns of the key, and away she went. Out for the brake test, and passed. I also got two other advisories - one for gaitor condition on a ball joint which I agreed with, and the other was front wheel bearings have slight play! I hadn't realised he had put that on, but not really important anyway, I had given the wheels a good shuggle when it was up and I am happy with it. Lack of knowledge on the testers part I suspect there. So, she is back on the road again. Now to fit the new pads, and we are happy! Cheers, Phil

Well, the saga has continued. Between the set of carbs from mrshed, and my set I managed to rebuild my carbs with correct bits. The ideal would have been to use the new set of carbs as they were (since they were known to be good) however I did not have enough bits and pieces to convert the throttle system over (I have the original rod throttle, and the replacement carbs were for the cable style). However in the process I managed to break one of the little lugs for the float. I repaired this with some "Super Steel Epoxy Weld" from Halfrauds, as it claimed to fix just about everything. Worked fine last week, so I booked an MOT for today. This morning I went out to start the car, and again fuel pouring out the breather. So rang the garage and cancelled the MOT (second one cancelled now). After some serious pondering about options (ranging from opening them myself, sending them to Andrew Turner to considering going straight for EFI) I suddenly (yet again) remembered that I have Herald 13/60 sat on the drive, and if memory served correctly it had a single Stromberg carb! So out I popped, and lo and behold one CD150 carb, of a matching type to mine. So a quick dis-assemble on both cars, and some swapping of parts around (as I needed the throttle spindle swapped as the linkage for the two is pinned on) I suddenly had a new carb. It would appear that the lug I tried to repair has detached itself again, obviously the wonderful Epoxy Weld was not quite as wonderful as I had hoped. Anyway, I rebuilt and re-attached everything back onto the 2000, and set all the mixtures etc to book figures (jet 3 turns down from bridge, and idle screw in 1 full turn from touching). Connected the choke, and on full choke managed to get the engine started, but not running. Wound the idle screws in another two turns and away we went. Once the engine was back up to temperature I tried taking the choke off, however as soon as the choke was removed the engine died. I then realised that the rear carb was leaking petrol out the breather, but only slightly and a wee tap soon cured that. Wound the jets out some more, and eventually got started again, so away I went with tuning. I got both carbs tuned roughly in, idling nicely however the rear carb seemed to want a lot more enrichening than the front, which began raising some questions. Achh well, in for a penny, in for pound. Off came the rear carb, and popped the float chamber off. Turns out some wazzock had only gone and fitted the pin holding the float in the wrong way round, which had allowed the float to semi detach itself. Well, at least that was an easy fix! So, popped it all back together again, and we were much happier. I have to say, I am slightly staggered by how much I have had too wind the jets out to get the mixture correct. Started at 3 turns down, no go at all. I eventually ended up going another 3 turns again, but then wound it back one turn for a quick test drive, and found that was just slightly too lean. Ok once going, but stagnated on setting off and when I tried ambling in second gear at low revs applying the accelerator caused a distinct lurch. I then progressively kept lowering the jets bit by bit, and found I am back at roughly the three turns again (so 6 turns from bridge). I can only assume that this has something to do with the "PI" camshaft that is fitted, as both float levels are correctly set at 18mm, and everything else is good. New jets, needles centered nicely, oil in the dashpots. Ohh, and the needles are 6J if that makes a difference! So, spoken to the garage again, as we shall now go for 3rd time lucky on Thursday. At the very least the car shall hopefully be able to make it off the darn driveway this time! Now, does anyone have any advice regarding good quality epoxy/liquid metal for repairing this broken lug on my now spare carb body? Obviously it needs to cope with being immersed in petrol? If I can repair it I might keep that carb as a spare body. Ohh, and hopefully one day the poor Herald will actually get restored, instead of being a spares parts donor! Ohh, for some spare time! Cheers, Phil

Just to clarify myself slightly, onboard the ship I would normally use a hand pump for 20l or more, for pouring out the smaller quantities from a 20l container the tipper thing is easier with much better control than pouring by hand!! Phil

Try something like this Wim, not as robust but nice and cheap, and this type does seem to work reasonably well!! (I use bigger versions with 200l drums on the ship for transferring smaller quantities of oil). http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Manu.....?hash=item417b13ec5b Though to be perfectly honest, the time you take setting it all up and putting it away, just build a hinged cage for the drum that allows you to pour under control. something like the attached picture?? Cheers, Phil

Overflow is from the front facing breather port, and pumping out in style! Colin is partially correct, I was having issues with gaskets and floats, which was causing overflowing, but I have rectified, checked and double checked them since. It would appear to be the needle valve not sealing properly now. I have been away for weekend, so when I get back later on I may have another go, was getting quite fustrated with it so a couple of days away was good! Cheers, Phil

In which case, I'll gladly have em!! Cheers, Phil

Richard - I may well take you up on that very generous offer!! Thanks greatly, it might be a lifesaver! Cheers, Phil

Hi Darren - Thanks for the reply!! To answer your questions: Kits - came from Chic Doig, he normally uses correct stuff?? Pistons sticking - I checked that The piston would fall to the bottom without the cover fitted, but as soon as I fastened the cover on the piston would lift by several mm!! Float heights - set to 18mm as per manual Needle valves - Brand new. New rubber pipes fitted, I only have two short sections of the metal pipe at the carbs, one chunk has been replaced by rubber by a PO. Incindentally, whilst looking around on t'interwebs, I found some references to what numbers were used where. Having checked my carbs, I would appear to def not have a matching set. Front carb has # C1854F, which Burlen says come from a '64 - '65 Mk1 2000. Rear carb has # 3137FN - not found where this comes from yet!! Wrong kit looks quite likely, but what is the right kit! Maybe simply getting two new carbs is the best bet, if they are actually matching!! Cheers, Phil

Assuming you have 150's already, I don't see why not? Only possible issues would be needles (if they happen to be different), vacuum take-off possibly, and accelerator cable linkage. None are what I would have thought to be big issues (in fact throttle connection should not be an issue, thinking about it If you don't get em I definitely will, having some large teething problems with my current set right now!! (See thread below this). Cheers, Phil

Ok. New fuel pump has arrived, and been fitted. Engine run and carbs roughly dialled in. I discovered that neither carb was happy, so whipped them off and opened the float chambers. Turns out the front carb has a different style of chamber which does not fit the gasket supplied. Not only that the gasket from the kit was jamming the floats shut, so no fuel. So, new gasket fabricated, all working. Rear carb - Again I had to trim the gasket as it was catching the floats, so they weren't closing, causing the carb pour fuel everywhere. Took the car for a brief spin to check how everything was, after a mile or so I lost power. Pulled into a side, and when I pressed the clutch the engine died. Opened the bonnet to find the rear carb again pouring fuel out through the overflow/breather. Removed and opened the carb again, nothing obvious. Fitted it all back again, started the pump and still pouring out. This time however the engine started, and once running the overflow stopped. I am not running any huge pressure on fuel (pump is a Huco suction pump running at 1.4 psi). Anyone got any suggestions as to where I go next? (And believe me, EFI is starting to look very promising!!) For a simple carb these are becoming a bit of a nuiscence. Rebuild kits I got were official Zenith kits (CDSK 11 for 125/150CDS, GRN No. 32115, however so far I have had following issues: Diaphragms too stiff and not allowing pistons to fall to bottom position properly Wrong gasket (though this may well be a bastard carb issue!!) Cheers, Phil

Cheers guys. I think on balance I shall try a new Huco pump, on the grounds it worked the first time, and as of yet I don't know what killed it. Thinking it might have been the shit in the tank has caused it work overly hard? Also, I am with Alec - I don't really want to have to fit a pump and regulator if I can get a pump to output the right pressure. Though what the right pressure is may be another question! Cheers, Phil

What do people reccomend?? I have had a Huco SU type pump fitted to the 2000 for the last 3 years (fitted by Mr Radders, the PO). However, having had all sorts of issues with this car, I have finally come to conclusion the pump is fucked, for want of a better term. If I tap the pump it pumps, and it was working well enough when I was dialling the carbs in earlier (just rebuilt them). However under any kind of load it simply stops. And to make matters worse, I attempted to open it up to see if I could find anything obvious, and I have buggered an o-ring up. So, what are people using? Do I get another Huco, or is there a better model/brand?? Existing: Huco 133010. Cheers, Phil

Alec - my thoughts were regarding my idle! I have been struggling for a while now to get these carbs dialed in right, which now I have seen the wear is understandable! However it would be nice to be able to a) stop at a set of traffic lights without either appearing to going for a rally start, or stalling, b) have another go at ignition timing! Cheers, Phil

Ev'ning Rod To be honest, no real plans as yet! Or more accurately, plenty of thoughts but nothing decided! Whatever I do will likely involve a fabricated manifold, I intend to build my own exhaust manifold at some point anyway (I am a marine engineer by trade, so fabrication is not an issue for me really). Throttle bodies - I keep alternating between having a ITB setup (lots of work, better for outright power) or going single body/plenum. I suspect for driveability I may end up going for single throttle body, but making my own plenum to suit, the non-existent artist in me see lots of spaghetti like pipes etc, but whatever I do will likely involve some complexity simply becuase I can!! Whether it works or not is another matter........ Cheers, Phil