thebrookster
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Everything posted by thebrookster
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MikeyB wrote: Thought they were useful for 1500 engines rather than 1300 - we need Mr Banks to remind us. Yup, the low compression pistons were for the 1500 engine. Basically they allow you to get away with running a 1300 head on a 1500 bottom end, which would normally cause immensely high CR's. Using the US low compression pistons alleviated this. (I still have a well matched NOS set in my cellar awaiting use, along with a NOS block. Must get on with that project again sometime.................)
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Depends on what engine has been fitted, but unless you are planning rebuilding the engine the main differences were internal, and don't affect basic maintenance particularly, other than possibly valve clearances. I don't know enough about these engines yet to give more detail than that, no doubt others better informed will be along at some point to help out. A starter for anyway, have a look through Vitesse Steves webpage, he has a load of manuals on his site, and the GT6 manual is a good starter I should have thought? http://www.vitessesteve.co.uk/Servicemanuals.htm Cheers, Phil
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892 wrote:Also the filters are mounted vertical- I think I need to put a check valve into the hose that connects to the oil pump so I will have zero drain after extended stoppage. Cheers, Iain. Just a quick detour from the original thread, but have you seen this thread Iain? uksnatcher came across this, and did a wee bit of research into filters which you may be interested in: http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1373532310/s-0/ Cheers, Phil
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892 wrote:Also the filters are mounted vertical- I think I need to put a check valve into the hose that connects to the oil pump so I will have zero drain after extended stoppage. Cheers, Iain. Just a quick detour from the original thread, but have you seen this thread Iain? uksnatcher came across this, and did a wee bit of research into filters which you may be interested in: http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1373532310/s-0/ Cheers, Phil
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Nick, wait until you lose one of your dips!! One of mine has gone recently, and believe you me it makes a difference!! I keep musing over Mr Witor's HID kit, not yet decided but after driving the other night with only one dip beam light in the pouring rain, I need some serious improvement!! Just not yet convinced the HID is necessarily the best way forward, I was planning on asking the advice of the collected wisdom here before making my mind up! Cheers, Phil
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Rears, Lloyd, ta very muchly!! Cheers, Phil
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Well, the cat has been let of the bag, it would appear that Lloyd (lloydpiestate) has bought it, according to the "save our cars" thread!!
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Lloyd, I am not up to date with all of what you are doing, but this sounds like moving on a more commercial scale. Is it therefore worthwhile contacting some of the Triumph Specialists and seeing if you can come to some arrangement whereby they all contribute something to the outright costs in return for selling the panels? I don't know if they would co-operate with both you and between themselves, but it would make everything far more affordable in the shorter term, they would be investing in the longer term, and those who are interested now also get reduced costs. My apologies if this has been discussed before, I have only really thought about this just now. Ohh, and are you taking numbers? If so, please count me in for the Mk1 wheelarches. Cheers, Phil
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I would have thought that aiming for taking between 1 and 1.5kg off should be sufficient, aiming for the middle 3rd of the diameter. The important area weight wise will be the outer area, the weight nearer the middle has less effect on the inertia (loss of inertia is what effects idle). Are you doing this yourself, or getting an engineshop to do it? Any reasonably competent engine guy should be able to reasonably lighten the flywheel without causing any ill effect, it is the more extreme lightening for racers that needs a good touch.
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7112 wrote: Phil, You are able to set up a static ip if you're currently on a dynamic one. Thwres an online tool from portforward that let's you do it. Louis. Cheers for the info Louis, unfortunately I had looked at that before, and there is no easy method to use it on a Linux machine, and all my computers are now running Linux (well, I would never use Windows for a server anyway). I had originally installed a DNS server on my webserver, which allowed me to use the various free dynamic DNS sites as nameservers, which got around the issue, but you have to re-run a script on the server, and update the DNS server everytime the IP changed, which was a bit of a hassle. Hence the decision to go to a full static IP address. The other issue I have is that Sky (who I currently have) are unwilling to open most of the ports to users, so unless I changed all the ports FTP/SSH/etc used, I couldn't connect to my server from outwith my house network. Again, it is possible to get around this, but the amount of work involved frankly bored me, so paying for the static IP address is definitely the easier option for me. Going for hosted server space is probably easier again, but involves greater cost, and being a Northern Englishman who has spent a large part of his life in Scotland, parting with money willy nilly is not easy for me ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Cheers, Phil
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Aye, fraid kinkyspit as a website has died a quiet death, due to the name reaching the end of its lease. I have purchased a new name now, as I felt that with that car no longer existing and its somewhat risqué connotation the old name was past it's best. I still have the site itself, and as soon as I get the server sorted it should be back up and running again, I shall update once this is done. Not been as fast as I would have liked, but for some reason I came off my last ship with several months holiday owed, which seems to have been eaten up by 20 thousand other things!! The old site was kinda unstable anyway, as I was running a server from home, but the internet provider I had did not provide a static IP address, so whenever they changed the IP the site would go down until I fettled it again! Am in the process of investigating other providers just now as well, otherwise I shall go back to hosted server space. Cheers, Phil
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Aye, I likewise discovered that a touch too much effort when pulling the choke out can cause it to stick open, requiring a quick guddling under the bonnet. That is with a Mk1 as well. Cheers, Phil
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Send a message to Steve Attenborough, and have a perusal through his blog (latest post labelled "Damage assessment"), he has done this though I cannot recall how much detail he posted on the blog? His forum name is something like SteveA?? Cheers, Phil
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Not certain, but did Andy Thompson in Australia not run one of these for a while?
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Not certain, but did Andy Thompson in Australia not run one of these for a while?
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8009 wrote:I'm surprised that you two can even understand each other! Aye, it is quite something when a self-taught english speaking Belgian can understand Marcus better than most of us can ;D ;D ;D
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8009 wrote:I'm surprised that you two can even understand each other! Aye, it is quite something when a self-taught english speaking Belgian can understand Marcus better than most of us can ;D ;D ;D
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Yeah, as Clive says, it will need skimming, and therefore shorter push rods. The 1300 and 1500 heads are pretty much identical AFAIK, other than the 1500 head being taller to account for the increased compression ratio the longer stroke gives. So if you skim the head to match a 1300 compression ratio, then you will only have problems with the pushrods, timing etc will remain the same. You CAN run the head as it is, remember the American's had Spitfire with low compression ratio's to account for emission rules, but you will lose power by taking this option. (This option will require the engine to be retuned, I suspect!) Cheers, Phil
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I am also slightly confused as to why you might wish to control the temperature that way around. 80-90 celsius output temperature is what pretty much all engines run with, from small dinky things through to walloping big ship's engines. That aside, to answer some of your queries, the temperature difference between inlet and outlet depends on engine load. At idle the engine produces comparatively less heat, and so you will only see a smaller difference. When running the engine at full load the heat produced is much bigger, so inlet water needs to be lower to ensure boiling does not occur.
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Gt6s wrote: First off I would not trust a word that moron Mike Brewer said. If you go to buy a classic car can you really trust that the unleaded conversion has actually been done ? On the other hand if seller says it has not been done you can take that to the bank. With valve seat recession you LOOSEN the tappets. Laurence Laurence - I quite agree with you, I would not trust Mike Brewer either, however the point I was making in that the un-initiated can be overwhelmed with inconsequential details like this still stands. Good point about Tappets though, it has been a long few days loading this last week, and my brain is still reeling!! Cheers, Phil
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If you are planning on selling the car, then yes Wheeler Dealers were right. The average punter looking for a cheapish first time classic will be caught by things like this. Those of us who frequent forums like this one and are a bit more car savvy quickly learn it does not make much difference most of the time. As has been said, watch for excessive seat wear, you'll easily notice it as you find yourself constantly tightening the tappets. Until then, I would not make a concerted effort into changing the seats, however if you are rebuilding the engine probably worth doing, at the very least on the basis of better safe than sorry if nothing else.
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I don't know about beehive springs for cars, but I am fairly certain GT's springs are NOT beehived, which appears to be confirmed by the pictures posted of them? Also, again as far as I am aware the GT springs are a straight swap, whereas beehive's would presumably require different spring seats? John et al - have you tried looking for motorbike springs/manufacturers?? I seem to recall from previous investigations that this is where progressive springs were first really used as OEM, though I may well be winding you (and myself) up! (See what I did there :P ;D :P ;D :P ;D )
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Quite agree John, fingers are for whisky, though I prefer to measure mine by the hand ;) ;) Roger - would you care to explain where the bath comes from? You've certainly lost me on that one, so I wouldn't mind going off on a slight tangent here :)
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Heck Theo!! What type of computer where you installing to take that long? Supercomputer in your basement?? Good pics though ;D ;D Phil
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Heck Theo!! What type of computer where you installing to take that long? Supercomputer in your basement?? Good pics though ;D ;D Phil
