thebrookster
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Everything posted by thebrookster
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1317 wrote:Hi, One thing I do to make a more complete check of the readings is to repeat the first cylinder test after testing all other cylinders. This gives a second reading to show how much, if any, has been lost from the battery during the test. Occasionally it will show enough loss that when added to the last cylinder it is within a safe range of the highest cylinder where without this allowance it would indicate the need for more serious engine work. Cheers, Paul Crikey, I shall keep this tip in mind from now on!! A dull battery could make quite a difference when you think about it. Cheers for that Paul :) Phil
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And take pictures, we all like to look over them and provide contentious public bar style discussion on what you might be doing right or wrong!! Best of luck :)
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I use the Gunson Tester, available from Machine Mart etc. However, the thing to remember is to basically ignore the actual readings, OK it may well read in the ballpark area but these devices are not accurate!! For accuracy you pay a LOT more, and have to faff around calibrating the darn thing everytime you use it. What these testers are good for (and this is what most of us use them for) is showing variations between cylinders, and also showing dramatic loss of pressure in any/all cylinders. So when you look at it like that, basically all your tester needs is to have an easy to read dial, the correct fittings for your engine and be able to cope with the expected pressures (in particular hose fittings etc, the last you want is a cheap tool where the hose pings off in your face as you try to read guage!! 150-200 PSI will hurt!!) Cheers, Phil
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Keep a note of the SKF part numbers JensH provides (SKF nr. column!!) as you will likely find most bearing manufacturers will use either the same or very similar numbers. We have this issue on ships, where machinery manufacturers provide their own part numbers for everything, which normally includes bearings at rip-off prices, so we try to take a note of the bearing number when overhauling so we can order bearings direct instead!! Your 6202, 6205C3, 415997 etc are all standard bearings, same number from most bearing manufacturers, so I would expect the rest to follow suit :) Cheers, Phil
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Have to confess I have not seen that piece on either of my two triumphs, and I agree that it has all the hallmarks of an excellent rust trap!! However MarkB is in the right of it, when I see his picture it certainly finishes of the look very nicely indeed, something I had mused mildly upon previously when looking at my cars. Darn it, I can't seem to make my mind up about it now, just as well I do not have a Triumph at the moment I suppose. Cheers, Phil
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Apparantly this is a finisher, a "Rear Wing Lower Finisher" to be accurate. Check this page on Rimmers website, has an image as well: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-715821 Cheers, Phil
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GT6 restoration. Why did I take this on!
thebrookster replied to John Bonnett's topic in Triumph Chat
242 wrote:That site is blocked here, whats the asking price? £8250 redrooster. Cheers, Phil -
Three possible things spring to mind then, you either have air in the calliper, calliper is leaking or the hose is expanding. How old are the flexible hoses (I am being lazy, so I apologise if you have mentioned this already)? An old rubber hose loses it's structure somewhat, and turns into a balloon if you are not careful. I assume the piston sizes are diameters, and no I would not have thought that would make any difference to the pedal, only effect it would have would be leaking fluid which you have already ascertained it is not doing, so unlikely. So, check the hose for condition and ensure you are completely bled when you re-assemble. Cheers, Phil P.S Having now gone back and read the thread start to finish, my gut feeling strongly says check the flexible brake hoses. If they have not been replaced recently do them anyway, rubber does die so I now class this as a routine replacement part tbh.
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Can't recall size of battery, but I can confirm that a "heavy duty" battery for a Vauxhall (Opel) vectra will just fit in the battery tray, with little spare space! I discovered this when I scrapped my old vectra which had 1 year old battery that I had spent good money on, and was damned if I was going to lose it. So the spitfire gained........
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Had you tried the old trick of tightening them before trying to slacken them? If you have a suspected tight nut/bolt always give it a tightening tweak before undoing. Giving them a tap should not do any damage, but for heavens sake be proportional!! Small to mid-sized hammer wielded gently-ish should suffice, if you wallop the thing with your biggest lump hammer then you will damage things :)
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Yup, looks like it may be from the later models, it looks the same as the one that was in my 1500 Spitfire. Phil
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As far as I am aware an hs4 carb is the same regardless of what car it may be fitted to, so yes that kit should be ok for your carbs.The only possible problem is that is a service kit, so it does not include new butterflies or spindles, so I would check yours for wear before ordering, you might find you want a refurb kit instead. I know when I did mine I had to do the whole shebang, yours may be in better condition though :) As you say, the only difference between different cars on the carbs are the needles themselves, however you already know you need non-standard needles so there is not an issue here. The service kit you have linked to does not include needles anyway, you have to order these separately. The needle valves it refers too are the ones that fit in the float chambers to close the supply when the chamber is full of fuel. Cheers, Phil
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I can't remember what set it was I got when I did my carbs, but I got everything I needed from Andrew Turner, http://www.su-carbs.co.uk/ Good guy, and was very good for giving advice over the phone. He also sells needles etc, and if you tell him the rough spec of your car he will be able to advise on overall setup (needles, spring etc etc) Cheers, Phil
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Two things spring to mind here, one have you got the correct valves? Sounds daft I know, but correct order is as follows: Rear of engine (cyl 4) E I I E E I I E Front of engine The other point I note is you mention the valve opening at BTDC and closing at ATDC. This is wrong, as it would mean the valves are only open for a duration of 90 degrees. What should be happening is the valve opens at 25 BTDC (if using a degree wheel of 0 th 360 this will be when 25 points directly up). The 0 mark will then rotate to point straight up, continue round to point straight down and then continue a further 65 degrees on from there (otherwise known as 65 ABDC). This is where the valve should be fully shut. Using the 360 degree wheel the final point would be 125 degrees. To clarify: Inlet opens Before Top Dead Centre Inlet closes After Bottom Dead Centre Exhaust opens After Top Dead Centre Exhaust closes Before Bottom Dead Centre Crank must turn 270 degrees between valve open and valve close, but remember to deal with inlet and exhaust individually. Does this make sense? Cheers, Phil
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1790 wrote:Hey Phil, I did my engineering apprenticeship at Mirrlees Blackstone. Have you ever worked on any of those? I remember being awestruck on my first visit to the test shop and watching two guys climbing to the (individually turbo-charged) cylinder heads on a set of two piece ladders, on full extension. I now work at Perkins, even on the tiny 400 series 2.2 litre engines, they use a 1.3 metre torque wrench to do the crank pulley nut. That's only if the Georges Renault electric wrench breaks down though. Steve. Fraid not, so far I have only come across MAN B&W S series engines and Holeby Gensets. I am just in the final throes of my 'apprenticeship' (they call us cadets in the Merchant Navy, which is really the same thing) so no doubt when I start working properly I may well come across a Mirrlees engine. Owned by MAN B&W now anyway, for the larger two-stroke engines there are only really two manufacturers left, MAN B&W and Wartsila, as far as I can tell they own everybody else between them!! I was similarly awestruck when we did a complete overhaul on one unit of the main engine and I was tasked with wiping the cylinder wall down (only myself and the 1st Engineer were thin enough to fit, and a cadet is WAY below a 1/E in pecking order :-/ ). It was only once I had climbed inside I realised the sheer size of the thing, I could stand comfortably inside the bore, and my head was not even poking out the top! It had a 50cm bore and a 2m stroke. I don't think we had a crankshaft pulley nut on this engine ;) Cheers, Phil
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thescrapman wrote: I came across a Torque Wrench calibrator recently, it seems to be for up to at least 2500lb/ft so 150 is nothing (and would barely make the needle move! ) How long would the handle have to be to do something up to 2000lb/ft??? Mmmmmmm :-) I had a couple of pictures that I had taken onboard my last ship of some torque wrenches, unfortunately due to my HDD failing I lost them. I can't recall off-hand what ratings the wrenches were, however we had three 'larger' wrenches (as in all bigger than the standard 1/2" drive you normally see), The smaller one was approx 1m (3ft) long, the next was about 5ft, and the longest one would have been about 9ft long. Not only that, we had an extension that fitted onto the end of the wrenches that was 6ft long, which I was informed by the Chief Engineer was needed to even think about using the long wrench at the higher torques (and this was with two or three guys pulling/pushing the damn thing!!) Only prob was, the bolts that are tightened that high don't have the access space to use the wrenches!! LOL. To be fair, most items on the ship that are torqued to that level are engine related (cylinder covers/cyl heads, tie bolts etc etc), and you very rarely use a torque wrench on them, instead we use a hydraulic tightener, and tighten to a pressure instead. An exhaust valve on the main engine may be tightened up to 1000bar!! Now what kinda length wrench you reckon would be needed to loosen that!!!! Cheers, Phil
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Depends on which cam you have, you really need to get the measurements for the exhaust as well to try and narrow the choice down. If the exhaust is the same as the inlet you have the tr5 cam, as it is the only one of the three that is symmetric. My suspicion would be that it is the tr5 cam you have, I would have thought it would be more likely to mix two 'real' triumph cams than mix up a mklll with an obvious aftermarket spec cam. In terms of running, all three are wilder than the mklll cam, however from what I can recall not unsuited for the 1500 engine. Touch revvy maybe, but reasonable for torque.
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Can I suggest that you get back in touch with the supplier and see if you can do a double check on which cam you have? I see that you mention it was marked 25/65/1, however if the inlet is opening @ 38 degrees with full lift @ 104 degrees, then this sounds more like the tr5 spec cam! (35/65, full lift @ 105). Cheers, Phil
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Scott, the main thing to remember with camshafts is that they run at half the crank speed. What you are looking for here is the exhaust valve to be closing as the inlet opens. The point in which the tappet clearance is equal on both valves is when the piston is at TDC. Don't worry about exhaust strokes etc, if you are on the wrong stroke the valves will not be moving!! I get the impression that you are over-complicating things somewhat here, just take a step back and keep it simple. Get your cam timing sorted, and remember this is to be treated by itself, ignition timing etc will ALL come later, ignore it for now. From your earlier posts, you seem to be trying to measure clearances etc, again don't bother. These measurements will change depending on whether the block/head have been skimmed, what gasket you are using etc. As Mike, Nick and Gordon say, get your clearances equal to each other. To double check the timing once you have fitted everything try measuring where the valve starts to open and close (using a DTI on the rocker arm), I personally would not bother trying to measure the point at which full lift occurs as this depends on multiple factors. Good Luck, Phil
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Dicky_Blighter wrote:failures aren't as common as it appears so don't get paranoid about it, think of all the thousands of spits, heralds etc. that are driving around with no problems, but when they do fail it can be quite nasty - especially if you are driving the car hard and stupid to do that if you suspect a problem. (even more stupid to suggest thats the way to find out for sure (naughty)(naughty) ) Dicky is quite right, failures are not all that common, allthough if you hear of one going you can be damn sure another two will fail within the space of a month or so ;) However, as further reassurance, it would also appear that the majority of vertical link failures normally happen at slower maneuvering speeds, remarkably few fail at speed, which is a blessing in disguise I suppose.
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2597 wrote: Thanks Gordon I am now assuming that the clearances are the same on the 1500 otherwise they would have said - right?! The ridge is actually about 2mm from the B/E oil way (!!!). I think I will just have it checked out by machine shop (£££) :) I rather suspect you have said it all in that last comment, get everything checked out by a machine shop if there is any doubt. My Personal opinion here is if you suspect a ridge then get it seen too, it may be more expensive in the short term and hence delay the finish date, however by not doing anything you are potentially leaving a weak point in the engine for a later date!! Cheers, Phil
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Metal to plastic is obviously for cost I suspect, although this may pay off with a weight saving?? Number of blades would normally equate to the amount of air flowed, assuming the blades are roughly the same size. Basically the more blades the more air is shifted at the same rpm. Works the same as propellers on ships, which I covered very recently (and sat the exam yesterday!!). We normally use 3 bladed propellers as they have the best cost ratio, though some ships use 4 blades. Naval vessels may use 5 blades, but this is not normally found on merchant vessels, whilst submarines use 7 blades!! (They want a slow speed to reduce cavitation and noise, yet still have good propulsion). Does however work on the law of diminishing returns, where the cost of manufacturing with more blades rises exponentially against the propulsion gained. Cheers, Phil
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There is no way those supports will hold that log there if it decides to shift either!! :) If in fact it didn't just fold the trailer in half. One has to wonder how much strain that poor tow hitch is taking as well!! Probably find that this guy has been shunting wood around like this for the last 15 years, and fair does to him. I have to confess to having done some similar hair-raising stunts at times as well ;P Also, never mind the ruddy lathe, what size chainsaw cut that bloody thing down to start off with!!
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Dave, What are the holes like at the top of the clutch pedal arm, where it joins on to the master cylinder with the pivot pin? I had a similar problem with my last sportier, and it turned out that as the holes had worn there was a bit of play. It would appear that a small amount of wear here equates to surprisingly large amount of pedal travel, and movement of the biting point. I had to weld the hole up and redrill it in the end. I only ask as I see you mention you had wear on parts of the system, so this could be a culprit! Cheers, Phil
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SMITHY - YOU HAVE FORGOTTEN TO TURN YOUR HEARING AID ON AGAIN!!
