thebrookster
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Everything posted by thebrookster
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1344 wrote: I was just told by folks on here if you do the carbs -cam and exhaust it makes the early engine quite poky and revy I know Radders only changed to cam to a "pi" one and just by doing that it was a major improvement on a otherwise standard engine 😊 Now owning said engine, it certainly goes very nicely indeed, however caveat to this, Radders also stated that engine had no right to go as well as it does, so that level of increase might be a one off!! (Might not be though.....) I also intend to install an electronic ignition, have heard that can make quite a difference. Ultimately I will go EFI route, but I intend to try the SimonBBC ignition to start, he has some good reviews on here. Recap - I have standard engine (AFAIK) with "pi" cam and standard everything else. Carbs have been tuned to cam (different needle I think?). Check out this vid to see how she goes! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IK8xiN-rjY Cheers, Phil
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1344 wrote: I was just told by folks on here if you do the carbs -cam and exhaust it makes the early engine quite poky and revy I know Radders only changed to cam to a "pi" one and just by doing that it was a major improvement on a otherwise standard engine 😊 Now owning said engine, it certainly goes very nicely indeed, however caveat to this, Radders also stated that engine had no right to go as well as it does, so that level of increase might be a one off!! (Might not be though.....) I also intend to install an electronic ignition, have heard that can make quite a difference. Ultimately I will go EFI route, but I intend to try the SimonBBC ignition to start, he has some good reviews on here. Recap - I have standard engine (AFAIK) with "pi" cam and standard everything else. Carbs have been tuned to cam (different needle I think?). Check out this vid to see how she goes! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IK8xiN-rjY Cheers, Phil
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Engine rebuild mystery - can you ID a 1500 engine?
thebrookster replied to rockrockmcrock's topic in Engine
Both heads are essentially the same, the only real difference is the height of the head from the face. I can see what you mean re the centre ports rockrockmcrock, however I can assure you from my experience that the 1500 head still have the centre ports as discrete units!! If you want this confirming elsewhere try ringing Dave at Canley's! Cheers Phil -
Goody has the nail on the head, I was referring to the incident hyperhale mentioned at the start where the accelerator got stuck open for a length of time with no load on the engine, which is the reason he started getting oil out the dipstick! Cheers, Phil
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I can't give advice on pistons etc, as not something I have any experience off on these cars. On the rest, I certainly hope that myself and John are scaremongering, however I think we are both reading off the same hymn sheet as too why! There is a cost involved in rebuilding the full engine, however with a bit of luck you should be able to restrict that to gaskets and rings etc, if everything else proves good. The issue to me here is that you have a bent pushrod, after having a WOT moment, and issues with pressurising the crankcase. I personally would advise checking any other linked parts as well now, as the last thing you want to do is rebuild the head then have a cam lobe break loose and ruin all the hard work again! You have the engine halfway there, so now would seem the best time to check the rest to me. Hopefully someone else will provide technical details for you soon anyway ;) Phil
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May I suggest at this point that pistons notwithstanding you do a full rebuild on the bottom end, particularly in regards to the camshaft? I would be worried at this point that the cam lobes may well have taken a hammering. Sorry!!!! Cheers, Phil
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Willie, a) We need to try and meet sometime, I would love to see the difference between your T6 and Chris'!! I never seem to be around when you call in to see Chris! Or if you happen to be passing the Loch Lomond area give me a holler, I can always put the kettle on!! b) Any chance of sharing the details for this engineering firm? I intend on EFI'ing my 2000 at some point, and I also prefer to work with people who know what they are doing! Cheers, Phil
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Argh, posting too early!! I would think a bent valve is unlikely, however you will be able to check for that by taking the rocker cover off and spinning the engine over on the starter, chances are a bent valve will show in sluggish movement, however I would expect other symptoms as well with this one, such as spitting out the carbs or backfiring more. Hope that this helps anyway, Cheers, Phil
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Possibly head gasket gone, have a look for either traces of water in the sump or oil in the cooling system, as either of these symptoms require more urgent action! If it is just blowing you may be able to run it for while yet, though fixing it would obviously be the better option!! The other possibility is piston rings, which may well have taken a hammering with WOT! Certainly the compression results you give hint at that, your #1 result has not changed between wet and dry tests so that is a possible culprit. Your compression results may suggest a bottom end rebuild could do to be planned anyway, as you have a fair jump in the wet tests!
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willows40 wrote:Now I'm not a mechanic and apart from the basics don't know much about engines, but why are people saying about balancing the bottom end. I know on a 'race' engine and the higher revs it's important, but why on a road car? Is it really worth the extra money when the triumph engine is smooth as is, does it make it quicker, if so how much. Will it last longer? Etc. what are the benefits? Cheers Andy As I mentioned in a previous post, it the engine is going to remain relatively standard, and it was running fine before then there is no reason to balance the bottom end. As you correctly say, the engine is already pretty smooth to start of with, and as a road engine this is acceptable. However, to counteract this, all these engines are getting older, and therefore any approach that will reduce the amount of stress put on the engine can be seen as good. Start increasing the power output as well and this becomes more important. So yeah, mostly about increasing longevity of the engine, and partially about negating additional stresses modifications may make, or at least that is how I look at it! Cheers, Phil
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I would potentially be wanting crank balancing done as well, myself, however if you are re-using pistons and rods, and the engine ran fine before, it probably is not really essential. If you have a set of electric scales, I would instead suggest balancing the static weight of the pistons and rods together yourself with a die grinder. Likewise honing, see if anyone has a homing tool they can lend you and do that yourself, we use a bobbly brush thing on the ship which does a nice job. (Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Research-FLEX-HONE-Cylinder-Silicon-Abrasive/dp/B005ANHYF6#product-description-iframe ) And as Clive says, maybe worth upping CR whilst you are at it, and again for me, If I was to skim the head I would also have the block skimmed as well, then you know you have two flat surfaces to work with! Might be worth asking Mr Radders as to what he did with the Red Shed and follow the same plan, assuming you have the original MkI engine still? Cause that goes very nicely indeed, strongly recommended!! Cheers, Phil (Current owner of the Red Shed!)
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Interestingly enough, after I had struggled with the drivers door, I then had occasion to visit Chic Doig's on my way up to Aberdeen. I was speaking to Iain there who has been playing with Triumph's for a fair number of years, and asked him for any tips in fitting the rubbers. He simply waved a large screwdriver at me, and said "I really WOULD like to know how they did these in the factory, they simply can't have used a screwdriver on every car!" My rear doors are still waiting.......................... (though that may have slightly more to do with a lack of 1/2" socket in Aberdeen than unwillingness, I only have spanners here and they don't fit on the bolts on the rear doors!) Cheers, Phil
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Interestingly enough, after I had struggled with the drivers door, I then had occasion to visit Chic Doig's on my way up to Aberdeen. I was speaking to Iain there who has been playing with Triumph's for a fair number of years, and asked him for any tips in fitting the rubbers. He simply waved a large screwdriver at me, and said "I really WOULD like to know how they did these in the factory, they simply can't have used a screwdriver on every car!" My rear doors are still waiting.......................... (though that may have slightly more to do with a lack of 1/2" socket in Aberdeen than unwillingness, I only have spanners here and they don't fit on the bolts on the rear doors!) Cheers, Phil
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Good luck Tony, not a fun job. I have replaced both front doors and the bootlid seals so far in the last couple of weeks, just got the two rear doors to go. Take the door off the car BTW! Far far easier, I did the drivers door in situ and it was a nightmare! Ohh, and welcome to the world of new noises! I am building up a long joblist of bits to fiddle with now I can hear all the rattles!! Cheers, Phil
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Good luck Tony, not a fun job. I have replaced both front doors and the bootlid seals so far in the last couple of weeks, just got the two rear doors to go. Take the door off the car BTW! Far far easier, I did the drivers door in situ and it was a nightmare! Ohh, and welcome to the world of new noises! I am building up a long joblist of bits to fiddle with now I can hear all the rattles!! Cheers, Phil
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Is the clutch arm pin still in place on the other side of the bell-housing? My old spitfire lost this pin (they can drop out rather easy it appears), and can cause interesting problems with the clutch! Will be an engine out job if it is, and I would suggest ordering a better version from Chic Doig, his have a head on the top to stop them falling though. Might not be the problem, but the work you have done so far is almost identical to what I did at the time, took a while to get to the bottom of that one........
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I would consider re-using that, however may I make a suggestion? Get hold of a set of needle files and smooth all ridges off, Not much, but by cleaning those ridges off (and presumably have to do the same to the bendix on the starter) you'll increase the life. Otherwise what would happen is every so often those bits of metal will detach when starting the engine, and get caught in the teeth between the bendix and the flywheel, and increase the levels of wear. Also, small bits of metal will not do the clutch much good either! Bugger of a job, be prepared to spend a couple of hours at it, but it will be of great benefit in the long run! P.S - try not to change the profile of the teeth, you only want to remove the lips, use the good section as the guide initially, then gently smooth the edges were the teeth initially mesh. Cheers, Phil
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I used a similar item to what is in the first link, bought from Moss before I learned that there are cheaper sources out there!! Here: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=10778 (As in the cone type) Fitted my HS4's OK, from memory?? Cheers, Phil
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However it is worth remembering that you can always keep any original parts you "upgrade" in case you sell later on!! If the car is original, and I was going to use it I would probably go down synchro route, better seats etc as I desired, but keep the originals in storage. Our cars are not that big in the first place, and hence parts shouldn't take that much space (Notice I do say Shouldn't!!). Cost - this will really depend on how much work needs doing! Post some pictures maybe? Probably worth taking it to a specialist for a rough quotation tbh, least that is what I would do. Obviously they will not be able to give an accurate figure, but they can certainly put you in the ballpark!! Cheers, Phil
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sorbs wrote:Depends how bad the leak is, I drove mine many hundreds of miles before I worked out where the smell of fuel was coming from. Enough that I might risk driving up to Fife with it (40 mins or so), on the basis that whilst the car is driving fuel is being consumed, thereby hopefully reducing said leak, however I think I shall try and do something with it to reduce first! Even if it means a large dollop of silicon.......................
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Pete - many thanks for that, my suspicions are towards the O-Rings, as that is where it appears to be coming from, however I'll not know until I get a closer look. Hopefully I can at least seal it enough to get it 30 miles up the road to Chic's, and dump the entire thing on him :P Whilst I intend on getting to know this car better mechanically, I am really struggling to find the time to do anything with it. And eventually I do intend to EFI it, but again need the time! Hopefully my next vacation will not be so bad, I seem to be juggling weddings/festivals/gigs, along with a possible house move, and issues with the modern car this time round, so gonna be a busy couple of months vacation. Hopefully getting the Triumph road legal will ease the tribulations however :D ;D ;D ;D Cheers, Phil
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Well, finally back from sea for a few months, and the nice weather has had me out at my lockup to recommission my 2000. Anyway, filled fluids etc back up, and cranked her over and built up oil pressure, everything good. Then applied some choke, and after 40 secs or so she fired over, and sat at fast idle very happily indeed. More than happy, except I could smell a good whiff of petrol. Now, initially I thought that this was due to cranking for a while, plus running on choke, however when I perused the engine bay I discovered that the rear carb was happily pouring petrol all over the floor! Ahh. To give a wee background, the car was fully running when I laid her up last year, about September/October IIRC. Over winter until now she has just sat there, doing nothing. Fuel pump is electronic, everything seems to be ok. Having done a google and a search on here, it would appear that the O-Ring on the bottom may have gone (this appears to be were the petrol is coming from, I have not looked too closely yet as I was in good clothes, so simply investigated with fingers). Either that, or some posts suggest needle float valve may be sticking. So, does this sound like I am on the right track here, or am I missing something else obvious? Any advice, both in fixing or other options happily received as I have not worked on Strombergs before. Hopefully if I can either get this fixed, or get it to Chic Doigs then I should be clearish for an MOT and some summer driving :) (I say clearish, as I know I have a bulb out, and the O/D was not working correctly when I laid the car up, however I am struggling for time just now so I am cheating and sending it too Chic to sort out!). Anyway, Thanks in advance for all advice offered, Cheers, Phil
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Yes and No. The diff does not effect the range through which the O/D works. If you engage the O/D at 4500rpm, the drop will be exactly the same, regardless of the diff fitted. However, if you are basing your observation on speed, and are simply putting the O/D in at say, 60mph, then what you see on the rev counter will differ, but this will happen regardless of the diff fitted. In basic sequence, your engine has an rpm output. This is transmitted to the gearbox, which applies a ratio to this rpm, thereby changing it. Normally this ratio makes the gearbox output shaft spin slower than the input. This gives less speed, but far better torque (hence why setting off in 1st is OK, but if your try setting off in 4th you stall!!) The O/D takes its rpm from the gearbox, but alters the speed the opposite way from the gearbox, it increases your output rpm. This give closer step changes than the gearbox by itself, but has most use in 4th gear, which is normally a straight through ratio (i.e. what goes in comes out the same). The diff is the final piece that alters what rpm your wheels see. It simply takes speed from the propshaft, and applies a set ratio to it which doesn't change. So yes, your perceived revs will be higher/lower FOR A GIVEN SPEED. This is the problem with perception, we all see it differently :) I do hope that this makes some sense, and that I have not rabbited on too much!! Cheers, Phil
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Whilst I struggle to recall GT6 details (not yet having had the chance to own one of these) the only thing you will really need for the swap is a shorter propshaft, which should not be too difficult to pick up. The diff is likely to be a higher ratio than would normally be used, according to James' site mintylamb your GT6 would likely have a 3.27 diff, whilst the OD car would have had a 3.89 diff. This will mean less acceleration, however your fuel consumption will be pretty good, certainly for long distance motorway driving!! This is of course assuming someone has not previously changed anything of course.............. For Propshaft someone like Canley Classics will have these in stock I would suspect? Hope this helps, Cheers, Phil
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Try sticking some teflon tape on it (PTFE tape that plumbers use). Should seal it up well enough for the job, gearboxes ain't exactly high pressure systems (and PTFE will seal plugs and fittings upto 300bar, from personal experience :)) (ohh, and it also very good at joining up with electrical insulation tape for wrapping a hole in copper piping on a sealing line at 3.5 bar on a seawater pump the other night, twas meant to be an emergency repair for the night, but is still holding nicely nearly a week later as we have not had the time to make a new pipe yet!!) Phil
