thebrookster
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And finally, a slightly off-angle picture showing (hopefully) how I mean the seal to sit. Now, according to the stuff I found on these seals, there is supposed to be a recess milled into the housing for these to sit in (like a bush), and they help effect an airtight seal on the throttle shaft. This shows them fitting in with the brass face innermost (or basically the opposite way to how I have them in the photos). My thoughts were to fit them as I have shown, as with the throttle disc fitted there should be very little sideways play on the shafts, so the rubber friction should keep these bad boys in place. A careful dab of a loctite compound to help if needed, though I suspect not? Obviously I would expect them to move slightly over time, but this should be easy enough to move back in place (say during weekly engine checks), and I figured it would be better than having nothing in place? What do you guys think? Cheers, Phil
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Straight on picture of the carbs showing this seal in the positions I was thinking about.....................
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Right, let me know what you think guys! This first post (if I can work things properly) should show the "bush" in question. It really is not a bush at all, rather a slightly elaborate yet basic seal.............
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All warnings understood guys, however my plan would hopefully not need this to be done! Looking at the carb I have re-assembled (well partially, the new spindles arrive tomorrow) I reckon I can simply slide the bush things to but up against the carb body, but have them facing the opposite way so the rubber presses up. Not a perfect solution admittedly, but as the eventual plan is to go EFI anyway I am hopeful this will be an effective stop-gap solution. To be honest, it will also depend on how much play is left after I fit the new spindles, if these are a good fit then I'll not need to bother. Cheers, Phil
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Well, I certainly was not intending to bush the spindles, thats for sure!! Whole new ballgame right there that is............. Nah, like Clive I am hoping new spindles and discs should eliminate most of the wear (the amount of daylight coming around the discs when "seated" was quite staggering!). Also, in the service kits for these you get a wee brass cup with a rubber insert, which from searching would appear to be press fitted into the carb body on some models to create a seal on the ends of the spindles. I am now wondering if I can adapt these in some way to further seal the spindles, there should not be a huge amount of sideways play on the spindle so I was thinking about a touch of loctite, along with the natural friction from the rubber to hold the seals against the carb body. Not ideal, but maybe better than not having them?? I shall ty and take some photos later on to illustrate what I mean, right now I am still awaiting all the parts turning up with the postman, whenever he arrives!! (And Clive - I ordered sunday evening, but only realised I needed new spindles etc on Monday, which CW happily added to the order at 4pm!!) Cheers, Phil
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And now having issues with slow interwebs and and a minor ability to NOT attach a photo! Second time lucky Cheers, Phil
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Well, correct me if I am wrong, but I rather suspect my throttle spindles are not supposed to look like these! Thankfully Mr Witor is supplying new spindles and discs, so between these, full cleaning, and new ht leads and blue Bosch coil hopefully we shall be up and running in a couple of days. Then just an mot on Fri morning to worry about............. Cheers, Phil
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Oddly enough, hje just sent me a promotional type email re these this morning!! Probably tied in to the fact I just bought a new Bosch Blue coil from him two days ago. Cheers, Phil
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NO I BLEEDING WELL DO NOT WANT TO SEE THIS!! We have been having a mild case of this on my current ship, driving us all up the ruddy wall!! There are plenty of additives you can buy to prevent these issues with diesel fuel (though trying to convince our company of this is proving slightly difficult lol), makes me wonder if there is something available for lube oil as well?? Cheers, Phil
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NO I BLEEDING WELL DO NOT WANT TO SEE THIS!! We have been having a mild case of this on my current ship, driving us all up the ruddy wall!! There are plenty of additives you can buy to prevent these issues with diesel fuel (though trying to convince our company of this is proving slightly difficult lol), makes me wonder if there is something available for lube oil as well?? Cheers, Phil
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Marginal on most Triumphs I suspect, though the 1500 really does need it! My 1300 spitfire was fine without it, however I found the 1500 in standard tune often pushed the oil temps up, though it died before I got round to fitting one. I have one fitted to the 2000 (Mk1) and I have noticed it gets used, but then I do push my cars!! Though maybe if I fitted a rev gauge to it I might not rev it as high………………………… Phil
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Oh, and my apologies for the abruptness of my post, I certainly am not trying to be rude or obnoxious! Tis the end of a long and hard day at work where nothing wanted to work correctly and a chief engineer with severe small man syndrome!!!! Cheers, Phil
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Been said before, and I'll repeat. Ignore the figures given on a pressure gauge, none of these devices are calibrated, and so much depends on what spec your engine has. Use these as a guide, no more. The most important data from this has been pointed out by Alec, it is the deviation between the cylinders. 15 psi is ok for a used engine. You also have a comparison between wet and dry, showing a 15 to 25 psi deviation, again I would consider this relatively normal for a used engine though it does indicate piston rings are starting to wear. Now taking readings. I personally would go with your approach in taking highest reading, on a fresh engine this should occur pretty quickly, it it takes longer to build the pressure this again suggests that things are wearing out. None of your findings immediately cry out engine rebuild, and chances are your engine likely has a few more years in her. However, if you want the best out of it, then a rebuild and recondition is advised. You have symptoms of wear, but not terminal in my opinion. Cheers, Phil
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I'm running a Huco pump on my Mk1 2000, copes quite happily for the last three years I have had the car! That supplies twin Strombergs without a regulator. Cheers, Phil
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Chic Doig does an "uprated" pin for this that has a shoulder at the top to stop it dropping through, and whilst it has been a while since I had need to buy one the price was very reasonable. Cheers, Phil
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Go for the rebuild, really there is not much to it. The vast bulk of the job is the stripping and cleaning. The SU's don't have much in the way of gaskets etc internally, basically new jets, possibly needles and gasket for the float chamber? You say you have already done the throttle spindles, so that is the bulk of the work done!! When I did mine I picked up a cheap jewellery ultrasonic tank (from Lidl/Aldi, can't remember which), and put all the parts through that. Took quite a while, and I had to redo most of multiple times (a bigger ultrasonic would have been better) but it did the job over 2 or 3 days. I then bought a metal polishing kit from Halfords that fitted on a drill and polished the dashpots. Pretty cheap, and looked pretty good as well!! Cheers, Phil
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To be honest, I don't think I'll bother fitting a high torque for the time being, a fresher starter spins the engine over with no difficulties at all. Maybe if I ever get round to increasing the compression ratio then it might become necessary, but not as it stands. Cheers, Phil
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Dave - first of all my apologies, I have no idea why on earth I was calling you Bill!! Anyway, starter motors have been swapped, and successfully so. And I can honestly say I have never heard the red shed spin over so enthusiastically in 3 years of owning her. That old starter must have been buggered!! It'll not be today, (might even have to wait until July) but I shall probably be contacting Mr P for a replacement of some sort!! Cheers Guys!! Phil
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Colin and Dave, You are both geniuses!!!!!!!! As it happens I have a Herald 13/60 sat on the drive waiting for restoration, and I am sure that it will not mind lending it's starter to it's bigger sibling!! We shall see how it goes................... Phil
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Well, I have had a quick look around, and seem to have gotten myself more confused than when I started!! Basically, my starter has all but packed in on my Mk1 2000. It is of the inertia type. Now, when I come to remove it today I discovered that the two nuts/bolts holding it too the bellhousing were loose (as in you could move the starter by nearly an inch by hand). So that was problem 1. Problem two, once I removed the starter (who on earth designed that top ruddy bolt????????) I found that the rear of the shaft (the square end) had significant play in it. On top of that the brushes need to be replaced. So, I thought I would simply get a replacement starter, and either hopefully send this one back as part-ex, or I could rebuild it myself when I had more time in hand. Then I looked on Witors website, and noted the cost. Hmmmm. So basically, I have seen mention of Vitesse/GT6 having same starter. Is there anywhere cheaper for one of these (and more importantly can anyone advise me as to the part number so I know what to search for!!). Also, there seems to be mixed views on High Torque starters, are they worth it?? And if so, where do I get one from? Or, am I stuck with rebuilding!! Cheers, Phil
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Dave - trial and error!! Run it with vacuum, then if it starts to pink pull over and remove the pipe (block the carb end though). It has also been mentioned to me on a few occasions that keeping the vacuum advance is not always conducive, mainly cause on older cars they have stopped working! Cheers, Phil
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Dave, you are on the right track for setting plug leads, line up for #1 firing and fit leads from there. I'll be honest and admit that this is the only method I use now, since my last Spitfire which had it's dizzy out of alignment and caused me no end of trouble getting it running after I had the head off!! My only note of caution is make a note of what you have done!! My PO had also given me the manuals for the spitfire, in which it gave me the "official" order of leads, and also the PO's order, both of which were wrong!! And that was only 4 cylinders, I dread to think what would happen with 6. Fraid my knowledge is not certain enough to advise on the rest. Cheers, Phil
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Courtesy of Bill Davies of Rarebits4classics fame, you are looking for profile "CDS1" in this pdf: http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/Forms/Extrusion_List_15_05_2013.pdf Least, that is what I just fitted to my Mk1 2000, and as far as I am aware they are the same for Mk1 and Mk2? My seals were supplied by Chris Witor (I am based in the UK) and fitted with no problems. I did not use lube either, just nice careful work with a screwdriver, they went in in no time at all. BTW, they are easier to fit if you remove the doors from the car :P Cheers, Phil
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Courtesy of Bill Davies of Rarebits4classics fame, you are looking for profile "CDS1" in this pdf: http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/Forms/Extrusion_List_15_05_2013.pdf Least, that is what I just fitted to my Mk1 2000, and as far as I am aware they are the same for Mk1 and Mk2? My seals were supplied by Chris Witor (I am based in the UK) and fitted with no problems. I did not use lube either, just nice careful work with a screwdriver, they went in in no time at all. BTW, they are easier to fit if you remove the doors from the car :P Cheers, Phil
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Pete, I rather suspect a warning note should be added to the instructions, along the lines of "If fitting 1155/1166 pads, a private road/runway is required!". A lot of places forget that whilst it is illegal to fit "uprated" pads to modern cars if they are not proscribed by Manufacturers, we are actually allowed to do so on our classics (if memory serves me right, no doubt someone will correct me if I am wrong!). Therefore 90 to 30mph braking is rather difficult on our roads ;) Good find though, I have now saved said file to my reference folder :D Many thanks for sharing Cheers, Phil
