thebrookster
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Everything posted by thebrookster
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Fraid your eyes are gonna sting for a few days yet as well!! Or at least if my experiences with Diesel at 10 Bar in December was anything to go by!! (BTW - anyone ever seen a jet of diesel fly clean across a 10 metre space, hit the far wall and then bounce back and hit you from behind?? Quite a staggering spectacle which I don't recommend, all I can say is thank god for safety glasses!!) Get the pressure gauge wrapped in several layers of PTFE tape!! It holds to some remarkable pressures as well!! Cheers, Phil
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Any recommendations?? I have got the bit about GL4 spec, and scouring of this forum and Triumph Register seems to suggest 75W90 is a good option over the original spec'd EP90W. However when I did a quick check of Ebay and Amazon for oil I found lots of oil that claimed to be GL4 and GL5 together. I presume this is no good? Or is it? Basically, what are people using, and any suggestions for sourcing? Motor Factors etc that require in person visits are no use to me just now, I have a very busy vacation ahead of me for the next 6 weeks so online is preferred. Cheers, Phil
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Johnny, May I enquire as too which NOS pads you are using? I recently bought a set from Chris Witor, NOS etc. However it turns out that whilst they are in fact NOS pads, they are not the original pads spec'd for a Mk1 (which near enough no longer exist in any quantity), but a style of pad that is a very close fit. The pad shape is fine, however the thickness of the pads is greater than the "real" originals, so you need to grind the back of the pad (backing metal) down a few mm in order to get them to fit. Is this the issue you are having? I initially found out through one of the forums, however Mr Witor happily confirmed the same. Cheers, Phil
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If you are happy and confident with the rest of the bottom end, then take the cam out the front. Bonnet is easily removed, and whip the radiator out as well, should be nice access. I'm with Marcus here, pep it up with a snazzier cam whilst you are at it!! MkIII spitty cam is also pretty good for the 1500 and keeps it Triumph, and has the advantage of being a common upgrade so plenty people around to assist. Cheers, Phil
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Got it one Ken!! Tighten in increments whilst centralising jet at same time. Kudos to you for posting the fix as well!! Cheers, Phil
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As Nick says, Needle valve is not closing properly. From my experience this can be caused by two options, High Fuel pressure would be a third. 1) Floats not operating correctly. I had one carb where the post for the float had sheared, causing the float to jam. I also on one occasion managed to fit the pin for the floats the wrong way, allowing the pin to come loose and again jam the float. This was on an early set of CD150's, yours are later versions so I suspect my two failures won't affect you, but you may have another float related issue! 2) Rubber sliver caught in needle valve!! I found that this can cause either (or both) of two issues, one is not enough fuel getting to carb in the first place causing fuel starvation on engine, the other is if the rubber gets into the needle valve it can cause it too jam open. Also, if it is a new needle valve then quality may not be brilliant, so it might be that the valve is simply sticking for no real reason. This tends to fix itself over time, however if you give the side of the carb a quick thump when it is overflowing chances are it will stop if that is the cause (basically jar the valve and allow the float to close it properly). Cheers, Phil
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Replacing diff output oil seals without a press
thebrookster replied to hyperhale's topic in Drivetrain
fower legged puller Marcus?? Crikey, must be a reet bugger to handle!! We use both 2 and 3 legged pullers onboard ship (yes, we have 4 legged pullers but those are muckle buggers for odd jobs). I would have thought a 3 legged puller, along with (if needed) judicious added heat and cold (you can buy special sprays that freeze metal for this kinda thing) should get em shifted? Plus a 3-legged puller is easier to handle, the 4 legged beasts need an extra set hands to use em!! Phil -
Have you spoken to Bill from rarebits? He has most of the seals AFAIK, although postage may be your biggest problem? Cheers, Phil
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Have you spoken to Bill from rarebits? He has most of the seals AFAIK, although postage may be your biggest problem? Cheers, Phil
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Another query. I am slowly developing small rust patches on my Mk1. I will be rubbing these down and curing/painting them to prevent any further major damage, however I am fast coming to the conclusion that the time is approaching where I need to consider having the body fully stripped down and repainted. I know already I need one rear arch replacing as it was repaired in previous ownership but the repair section was hand made (this was before Lloyd started making the new panels). So basically, does anyone a) have suggestions as too who to approach for this kind of work, and b) anyone who has done similar please give me an idea on pricing (pm if you don't want to adveritise prices, though I only want a guide). Simply, I will be wanting a complete body resto. Any panels replaced as needed, and a complete respray. I would also be asking for small (hmmm) jobs like headling to be done. I would strip as much as I can put initially, so the car might have drivers seat and instruments as a guide. Overall price is not my issue (being a Mk1 I want to keep it on the road in nice condition) but I will need to budget for it in advance. Distance is not a problem. Also does not need to be a formal garage, if any forum members have the skills and are interested please let me know!! Just to add, I am theoretically capable of doing the work, but to be honest I do not have the patience to undertake it. Cheers, Phil
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Jonny - I understand the Mk2 hubs are the same as the Stag, it is just the Mk1 that needs the hubs changing. Phil
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Matt - I am afraid I am of no use to you here, Nick's capable hands will be of more use! As it currently stands my stag setup is sat in the shed of a fellow club member, along with some other bits and pieces! Not only that, but I have managed to score the entire front end near enough of a stag, so my conversion will be essentially pre-assembled and fitted as a job lot with any luck! Phil
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Jonny, If you look back through this board for topics started by me, I have had a couple of threads before xmas on similar topic? To recap what I think I learnt - better dampers, I went the Koni route front and back (rears from Mr Shackford) Full polybush - you seem to have that covered. Better springs - I was likewise looking at Progs for the front, and possibly 625lbers from Mr Shackford for the rear if he still has them. I don't run an arb however, that may make a difference. I have seen some guys running progs all round I think?? If back end is lowered too much then maybe you will need some camber adjusters, CW has them in two sizes? Brakes - I went the Stag route, I might suggest better pads than stock however with whatever route you choose? I was intending Mintex 1144's myself. Cheers, Phil
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Slightly unusual position for the fuel filter as well!! If I had the money to spare I would have considered taking a punt on this, it looks like it has good potential. Phil
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Huco low pressure fuel pump 133010 is what I have. Seem to come in at around 50 to 60 quid. Outlet pressure is 1.4psi, flow rate of 120l/hr. Mine is mounted in engine bay, and runs happily without a regulator. Again, was fitted by/for radders during his ownership, though I replaced it once whilst trying to do some troubleshooting where I buggered the first one! Hope that this helps, Phil
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Huco SU type is what I am running with strombergs Dave, I'll have a quick look for model number for you in. Phil
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Iggy - give us it in degrees mate! Tis a circle, that will make more sense than a distance! Phil
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Roger - it is indeed! In actual fact I found this the other day, and have no updated it with all the needle profiles I could find, courtesy of Vitesse Steve's very useful site of manuals which included a stromberg manual! I have also ordered the Burien book, so will update with any additional needles found there. I will then (or now,if anyone needs it) make said file available as a counterpart to James' Mintylamb SU needle tool. If i get the time and the tools I may attempt to convert it into Java so it can be run as a mini program. Cheers, and Merry Christmas Phil
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No arguments there Colin! The only reason I didn't use them in the end was because I would have to have converted over to cable throttle (mine is still rod) and I did not have the time or the parts to do so at the time. I could still go this route, but one the original carbs worked before so no reason to not work now, and two I am not going to be beaten by set of ruddy carbs! I've got this far so I'll darn well finish 😎 Phil
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Blimey! They don't make things easy do they? I do suspect it may well be the kit I got from Chic that was suspect, though probably unwittingly. Looming back through my old threads on the subject I have noted that the kits I bought were CDSK11, for a 150CDS carb, and according to Burlen's site the carbs I have (albeit one is an odd number they are the same physically) I wanted a CDSK1 kit for a straight 150CD carb. Might explain a few things I guess? I see no reason why I should not be able to get back to normal running, these carbs were working fine for radders when he had the car, and worked fine for me since until I started meddling! Another point I found when searching the old threads is I am at 6 turns down on the jet (initial 3 turns plus 3), so something is not quite right. Phil
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I can't actually recall how many turns down my jets ended up, but I can recall being slightly concerned about having the adjuster fall out! Back to the start - yes I have 150's fitted, and yes they are the type that adjust from underneath. Going by your thoughts Dazzer, which were heading the same as mine I wonder if I have the right bits fitted. If the jets are the wrong size that could explain it. I got the rebuild kits from Chic Doig, but I already had issues with them as I found that I had two differing float chambers fitted, which meant gaskets were not quite right. In the end I cannablised the carb from my Herald (same type) and gaskets from a set of mk2 carbs from shed1969 and got it running after a fashion (ie enough to pass the mot!). When I get home I shall look into ordering some new gaskets, new needles and jets (the needles fitted are the originals) and also some new floats. I am starting to wonder if I have buggered up the float height somehow, as logic tells me this would also affect fueling! I need some spares anyway to replace the bits I stole from the mk2 set, which I have semi promised to someone already! Think I might give Burlen a holler, they appear to know what they doing with stommies from appearances, and have a good rep online. I shall also continue playing with a rather funky spreadsheet I found that compares stromberg needles, albeit minus a massive number of types. Be nice to have something that works similar to the mintylamb su needle tool! Phil
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Sorry guys, I simply have too much thinking time on my hands just now, so plenty of questions rolling in! In Dave's "Ideas" thread I gave a brief description of one issue I have with my Mk1, namely I have had to set the jet a ridiculous number of turns down in order to get proper running. This has caused comment that I have the wrong needles fitted, with which I agree! Richard has suggested that I try the Mk2 GT6 needles. So I have done some research and tried to find out the needle profiles for the two needles in question, namely the 6J I have fitted and and the 6AC from the GT6. Now, have I got the right diameters? Cause it would appear that the Mk2 needle (6AC) is leaner than the 6J! So can anyone please explain? Have I got the right profile dimensions? I have ordered the needle book from Burien, but this is bugging me know lol. Cheers Phil
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Front dampers of the Koni variety. I see Rimmers have an Xmas sale on with these reduced to 220 quid (Inc. Tax), is this a good price? I am trying to compare with elsewhere, but being thwarted by a slow internet signal! Cheers, Phil
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Can anyone either point me towards an online copy of a mk1 wiring diagram, or failing that photo/scan one and send it to me? I am wanting to start planning an updated fuse box for mine, and I appear to have left my carefully prepared scans at home! Cheers, Phil
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Interesting thoughts here. I have been scratting away at my memory, and I suspect the rear springs I have are not progressive after all, but more likely the same red springs Josh has mentioned. Possibly the 425lbers that Chris sells? I think I am down to two options, keep the current rears and fit prog fronts, or try these 625lbers on the rear with prog fronts. I guess it will be dependant on actually identifying what I have on the rear, and making my mind up at that point. I appreciate the comments re ARB, and whilst I can see the plus points I am still not convinced it is a route I want to go down. I have seen many mixed opinions on having these vs not, so shall try the not first. Cheers guys, all that is left is to buy springs, front dampers and I think some new brake lines and I will be pretty much ready to install when I get back home (or maybe after the next trip, working outside in January gets less appealing the older I get!). Phil
