Dave1360
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Everything posted by Dave1360
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Just to pick up on this part of your fault finding: That's as expected. A multimeter is high resistance when measuring volts so it won't pass enough current to light anything. A reading of 12v is good though. If this drops to about 0v when the switch is on then it'll prove the switch is working too.
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Hi, I can't help you with the original query, but it was the Gloucester TSSC and Glavon TR clubs going around Herefordshire. I didn't go round with them, but met up with them at the start near Newent. Some absolutely lovely cars and the sound of them all starting up and hoofing it up the road was what struck me the most - it was like an old war film where the Spitfires were all scrambled and took off. Strangely quiet when the last one had gone out of sight.
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I know this thread's a few months old, but has anybody fitted one of these to a Herald yet? Does it need much modification (power cable lengthening etc.) and where's the best place to fit the relays and fuseholders - does it come with mounting brackets for them? Any other gotchas before I place an order? Thanks, Dave
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10158 wrote:as my a pillars are fairly poor and had repairs before it would be really usefull to actually see what they are supposed to look like to try and re create it anyone know of any reasonable pictures or better still got a car near bristol area that i could look at? Hi Phil, If you can't find anyone closer, I'm up towards Gloucester and would be happy to take a spin southwards for you to see what the pillars are supposed to look like. Cheers, Dave
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Sounds familiar. I found that if you keep tightening them gradually in turn whilst sliding the valve up and down then you can get to a point where the screws are nipped up but not stupidly tight and the valve still moves freely. This is all with the jet either removed or loose, of course. It seemed to work out ok for me anyway.
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I also found that even slight over-tightening of the top cover screws sometimes caused the air valve to stick and not drop cleanly. It could be useful to get that right first without the jet fitted, and then get the jet centred. Another possibility is the needle - is its shoulder dead flush with the bottom of the air valve? Common sense tells you to drop it into the hole as far as it can go before clamping it, but that'd cause a rich mixture too.
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Have you confirmed that the air valve isn't sticking and the jet's been centralised correctly? When I rebuilt my CD150, I replaced the jet and needle as it seemed a good idea while it was all in pieces.
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Andy, Whilst that one may physically fit, it's not going to be "right" and *may* need different dashpot components for example. You'll also need the correct needle for it, but he says he's happy to change that so it's less of an issue. If it was me (and it actually was, a few months ago) I'd go for a rebuild kit, which costs significantly less depending upon what's actually needed. When I looked, only Rimmers had the correct float and even then I think it was labelled as for the Mk 1 GT6 rather than 13/60.
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Not even a cough? You should get something even if the mixture and timing are way out. Do you have a spare coil that you can swap over? You could also try starting it in the dark with your head under the bonnet and see if the HT is arcing over somewhere. Other than that, I'm out of ideas.
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Sounds like fuel and spark are both good so it's pointing towards timing being badly out. When you say you've swapped the leads about, did you actually swap lead 1 to plug 4 and vice versa and also swap 2 and 3? I'm not sure if the distributor can just be removed, the shaft rotated by 180 deg and refitted - you can on some non-Triumph cars but I've not taken mine apart that much yet. If you've got fuel, spark and compression then you should at least get a cough out of it. Just had another thought, but not sure how relevant it is with electronic ignition. I've had a spark when holding the plug to the head but not under compression. That turned out to be a dodgy condenser which isn't relevant here, but a dying coil might have a similar effect.
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Hi Sam, A couple of other possibilities that you may not have checked already: Is the carb actually getting fuel into it? I had a float stuck shut due to my own stupid fault recently. Not sure which carb you've got but can you check the fuel bowl is filling up? Distributor 180 degrees out? Swap the leads across (1-4 and 2-3) to check. Cheers, Dave
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Thanks Pete. I've spent a while on Google and t's definitely the wrong one. It seems that Rimmers sell the correct one, although it's listed against the Mark 1 GT6 rather than the 13/60. Hopefully it'll be right but if not then I'll return it. Meanwhile, does anybody want a later type float for the cost of postage? Having bent the second tab, the supplier isn't likely to want it back.
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When rebuilding my carb a month or so ago, I found that the float had some fuel in it. No problem, I thought, I'll get another from one of the many companies online. The first one from eBay was a mirror image of what I needed so it got sent back. I received a second one today from a Triumph specialist but it's the white one with two needle valve tabs rather than black with one tab. I fitted it having bent the extra tab out of the way, but it must have been catching on the float bowl as the valve didn't open when trying to start the engine. So out it came again to replace with the original. Does anybody know if the floats are interchangeable and if so, what further modifications do I need to make to stop it jamming? If not, does anybody have a spare kicking around or know where I can get one? I suspect Stoneleigh may be an option but unfortunately I can't make it. Thanks, Dave
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I found a spare 5 minutes so went out with a torch between my teeth to check. The pump pulley nut is 1/2" AF and the pulley itself is about 4", possibly up to 4 1/4". Does that sound right? Bill - yes, it has a fan attached with two of the four bolts. I'm thinking the fan's not quite right either as it's a 7-blade plastic one and the holes on it are at 90 degrees to each other, but the pulley has two pairs closer to each other as expected.
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I found a spare 5 minutes so went out with a torch between my teeth to check. The pump pulley nut is 1/2" AF and the pulley itself is about 4", possibly up to 4 1/4". Does that sound right? Bill - yes, it has a fan attached with two of the four bolts. I'm thinking the fan's not quite right either as it's a 7-blade plastic one and the holes on it are at 90 degrees to each other, but the pulley has two pairs closer to each other as expected.
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Thanks Ferny, I'll check the nut size and the pulley diameter in the morning.
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Thanks Ferny, I'll check the nut size and the pulley diameter in the morning.
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Hi, Whilst trying to reduce the number of niggles on my Herald, I've come across a problem that I could do with a little advice on. I've got a GE-series engine in the 13/60 with an alternator conversion which was done by a previous owner. However, there's a definite alignment offset between the water pump and alternator pulleys, causing noises and probable premature fanbelt wear which I'd like to sort out. My first thought was that the alternator was set too far forward, but a straight edge against the pulley aligns perfectly with the crank pulley. A similar check from water pump to crank pulley is starting to suggest it's the water pump pulley that's too close to the engine by about 10mm. I've had a good look at part numbers on the web and there's definitely not a single pump for all Triumphs, so what's the chance that somebody fitted the wrong one at some point? Without dismantling things (on the drive in this weather?), I can't see any part numbers on the pump, but I measured the gap from the rear of the pulley to the front of the pump housing where the gasket sits and got about 35mm. Does anybody else have the correct pump (GWP200 according to Rimmers) and could measure the same gap for me please? Thanks, Dave
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Hi, Whilst trying to reduce the number of niggles on my Herald, I've come across a problem that I could do with a little advice on. I've got a GE-series engine in the 13/60 with an alternator conversion which was done by a previous owner. However, there's a definite alignment offset between the water pump and alternator pulleys, causing noises and probable premature fanbelt wear which I'd like to sort out. My first thought was that the alternator was set too far forward, but a straight edge against the pulley aligns perfectly with the crank pulley. A similar check from water pump to crank pulley is starting to suggest it's the water pump pulley that's too close to the engine by about 10mm. I've had a good look at part numbers on the web and there's definitely not a single pump for all Triumphs, so what's the chance that somebody fitted the wrong one at some point? Without dismantling things (on the drive in this weather?), I can't see any part numbers on the pump, but I measured the gap from the rear of the pulley to the front of the pump housing where the gasket sits and got about 35mm. Does anybody else have the correct pump (GWP200 according to Rimmers) and could measure the same gap for me please? Thanks, Dave
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Hi Simon, In that case, give Staunton Cross Garage a call on 01452 840201 and ask if Stu can take a look at it. They'll give you a courtesy car if you ask when you call, which is handy as they're out in the sticks a bit. Cheers, Dave
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Does it have to be mobile, or is the car driveable? If you can get it there, then I can recommend a place between Gloucester and Tewkesbury that I've dealt with for years and there are 2 or 3 Heralds/Vitesses which regularly go in there for various work. Dave