Matt306

Just a small repair to footwell on passenger side.

Right where were we upto? I have got the chassis leg back in. So have now added the rear floor section. I have added in the bottom half of the heel board. There is a little bit to repair still on the heel board. Got some repairs around the front floor and the tunnel to do then onto suspension mount at rear. Of heel board. Nice shot of my electrolysis tank removing the rust from some panels to allow for reuse.

Wendy if I keep adding steel to it the weigh in weight will get more! It's quite nice just to post on here and get the positive reaction ,it spurs me on to the next bit.

Small update due to Covid knocking me out for my days off... just one day working on the chassis rail. This was pretty rotten but it's made of a few parts the rear bit slots inside the front bit and is spot welded together. Underneath a closing panel joins it all together. So the old one was full of holes. The replacement I sourced was better but still needed repairs. Although there are but welds the over lapping nature of the part adds strength with them plug welded together. The floor pan on top adds further strength as this is plug welded to the rail. The chassis rail is connected to the sill at the side and the cross member at the rear. The chassis rail also has the gearbox support bolted to it. Just a couple of pics of where we got to to tonight. Needs some weld through primer to protect. Added the before to show progress

They look lovely but what's a winter lay up ?

Useful if you use a modern PI system. I used it on carbs before it was only useful for indication of how far off it was though.

Or just plain daft

Bit more progress with the new sill in. Just tacked in at the moment

Top down as much as you can the scenery is fantastic and with the top down you really get the panoramic view. My first RBRR was in a herald and the roof down was fab the weather was good too

Right today removed what's left of the inner sill. I was going to weld on a repair at the back from the repair panel as they aren't the best but then decided that I would just use the whole panel anyway. The front angle isn't the best but I can cut and weld it.

There lots just not the bottom 6 inches

Well today I have been prodding and cutting around the rear suspension mount under the rear seat. Lots of rot nothing which can't be repaired as I have done on the offside.

Thanks for the response . It's a long road to recovery for this one

Next problem is the LH chassis leg. This is extremely rusty. They also seem to be made of unobtanium. Looking at old part lists it appears the chassis leg is one piece but on cutting it out it appears to be two pieces or this has been cut before. The back piece appears to be a ushape spot welded to the front section it looks well made so I imagine that was how it was made. On to repair though I think I will have to make 3 parts to form a U shape which will plug weld onto the existing piece with a some seam welds.

Cheers

More work on the stag B post

Some more work on the B post today

As part of my mammoth weldathon which is my Stag rescue i'll need a Stag passenger door. A bit crusty is ok.

Been onto the B post and repaired the bottom where it meets the sill this was non existent before. But we have metal there before. The pattern parts follow the wrong profile so using the one I had I used as much as I could of the old curvature to fabricate a new curve. Little bit more fettling then it will be done.

Slow progress big project. Attention has been on the A post. The windscreen surround is made up of 3 pieces. The bottom of the middle one is welded to the A post. Well mine wasn't it was rotten. I spotted a bulk head on Ebay... Good parts donor for lots of unobtainable parts panels. Work is going well on repair to the windscreen surround and A post.

Monmouth isn't a million miles away from me.

Howard thanks its off now. I fabricated my own, but having cut the head off, I hammered the studs which were still in the head and they didnt move...

I have sent my spare engine off for machining. Most likely will need +20 pistons and new bearing shells. I have a head to skim and will be fitting fast road cam. The ports and valves will be polished up and all balanced. Now to get the head of this engine took a lot of sweat and a hacksaw. The head is not much use for anything so won't be used , available for sale if anyone wants it? When I need to get head off i don't want to have the usual fight, any other Stag or TR7 owners have some tips for ensuring the head stud come out easily?

HEADLIGHTS If you have increasing problems with the pop-up mechanism for your headlights, which might remain down but they do light up, then first try tapping the relays as they must both click to operate the headlight pop-up actuators. Do carefully check the wiring in the engine bay to ensure the bullet connectors are making proper electrical connections and that the earth connection is sound. Another thing to check is the cut-out connections which you will find close to the fuses and relays. Either switching the headlights on or operating the headlight flash should result in both relays clicking and the lights popping-up. If a headlight light sticks up and does not pop down this could be either malfunction of the relays or poor wiring connections. It is important here to check the individual wire connectors and not the 3-way connector. If the connectors are corroded, loose or have a poor fit a quick fix after removing the corrosion is to add a narrow piece of kitchen foil to improve the connection! Stolen from TR DRIVERS CLUB Electrical Issues

If i went to my car switch off battery connected and tried winding the lamps the motor activates. Have you swapped the relays?