Matt306
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Everything posted by Matt306
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What Have You Still To Do To Your Car
Matt306 replied to McJim's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
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Utter buffonery... my wife is a teacher. If we hadn't got diesel she wouldn't have got to work on Monday. That's a whole class at home... how many of those parents panicked purchased? It would have been a waste of time had they had to stay at home because the teacher couldn't get to work.
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What Have You Still To Do To Your Car
Matt306 replied to McJim's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Stuck them to magnetic sheet... might have the same problem come the A1 -
What Have You Still To Do To Your Car
Matt306 replied to McJim's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
I'll tackle many a job on a car mostly in complete ignorance of what's needed but I won't be getting a needle out. Well done -
What Have You Still To Do To Your Car
Matt306 replied to McJim's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Put a new clutch in ... oh and pop the engine back in. I noticed the clutch was at the top of the pedal. Gearbox needs cleaning down and seals replacing on the crank -
What Have You Still To Do To Your Car
Matt306 replied to McJim's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Ermmm fit a clutch? -
What Miles per Gallon Do You Expect on the RBRR
Matt306 replied to McJim's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
My spit mark iv never had fuel issues on the RBRR probably similar to you are expecting. -
What Have You Still To Do To Your Car
Matt306 replied to McJim's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
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What Have You Still To Do To Your Car
Matt306 replied to McJim's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
I am wondering if there is time to convert the TR7 to Fuel Injection prior to departure.... -
They sent an email on Wednesday I think saying they had IT problems
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Wine gums for me
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Small posting today. The drivers door was always bigger then the passenger door so the door gaps were tiny. I guessed this is because of a resin of the door at some time. I attacked the inside edge of the door. I found the door frame and a huge over lap before the fold. Both doors need work so this was an exploration. Included is a comparison with the passenger door. I drew a black line to highlight the door frame edge.
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Cheers all, lovely to read the positive comments, when my back is aching and I feel like whacking it with a lump hammer it'll keep me going. The Stag has had a bit of a rest this week as I had to fix the TR7 rear wheel bearings and fitter better brake cylinders. I'll be posting more soon.
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What have you done recently or are planning to do soon to your Triumph?
Matt306 replied to Tim Bancroft's topic in General
Took TR7 out with the earlier rear wheel brake cylinders today... what a change! Much better firmer at the back. I had rubbed the shoes down with 400grit wet and dry and cleaned but not sure this is the sole reason! -
Not sure about the Sprint head but the standard TR7 head was Fuel Injected for late American market. Not sure if the inlet manifolds for the sprint/TR7 are the same. If so thats one route I am taking with my 7
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What have you done recently or are planning to do soon to your Triumph?
Matt306 replied to Tim Bancroft's topic in General
Today I replaced the rear bearings on the TR7 and changed the rear cylinders to the earlier 4 speed/TR8 type which are considered better. The Wheel bearings hadnt lasted long at all, but i managed to source some Timkin Bearings so hopefully these will last longer. -
I think they are just bent over to short, i am going to put some 5mm bar welded at the top to support.
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Cheers, thats the one , I have the manifold and fuel rail now as a couple came up on Ebay. Some of the bits I'll swap in for modern bits like a modern Speeduino Ecu which has a MAP sensor and TPS on a home made plenum. I also will have a crank fired ignition system with Wasted spark
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Hi nick yes the brace went across on the inside of the a and b post. The inner sill went in then. What the Stag has which the spit doesn't is the T bar.
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I am back to work today so work will be rested. I think next plan maybe to put the sill Outer on. Thanks for all the comments it's good to read. I'll keep adding the pics. Bear in mind I am self taught with pretty basic tools so if I can do it ... have a go .
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I picked the worst side first as the other would have more strength. It would be easier to weigh it in but I repair the cars for a hobby and fun. All my cars came in varying states of rot.
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Today's job was repair the heel board. This will allow strength across the car and support the floor. I can then fabricate repair panels for the cross member before thinking what I'm to do with the bracket then I can put the closing panel back in.
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Moving to the suspension mounts I have this problem and the cross member rusted below. My solution was to drill out the spot welds on the closing panel at the top. This allows access to repair the cross member and rear chassis outrigger.
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I read a book on stag restorations which say the T bar provides loads of strength. Nevertheless I braced the door opening.
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