Matt306

The Dizzi came out previously, due to a knackered Jackshaft. The dowel on the jack shaft and the centre piece had ovalled out. The locking tab was missing so the gear on the end moved greatly.  A S/H jackshaft was acquired from Robsport and gear and timing chain.  With this procedure clearly the Dizzy had to come out , replacement was check TDC insert jackshaft and new gear, Align scribed line, check cam shaft marks. Add timing chain, tensioner check all is correct, rotate engine lots, lines still alligned. Refit water pump fuel pump and then dizzy, rotor arm pointing at rear inlet manifold bolt. I have No 1 plug lead somewhere near the rear manifold bolt.   Pretty much most ignition components are new. 

Right back out again, got the car running 1500 rpm attached timing light to the car and the timing is quite a lot BTDC adjusted the dizzy but still couldnt get to 10 BTDC. I have checked crank at 0TDC cam cap line up and the dizzy pointing to rear most inlet manifold bolt. Looking at the top of the dizzy i have the following connections; Bottom left No1  Bottom right no 3 Top right 4  Top left 2.   As I cant get the timing marks to line up, i have a feeling I have made a school boy error with the plug lead connections. Can anyone post a picture with which lead goes to which cap for peace of mind

Right more investigations; IT appears I should check before posting the jet bearing IS slightly below the bridge , my memory is going! I have sorted the valves to within 0.001" so that will do! Spark plugs have been cleaned, they arent that old either New condenser in new dizzy cap on Bob wieghts in the dizzy are free to move and new springs on them too. The following have been refreshed in the last year whilst the car has been in the garage being welded up Plugs leads are pretty damn well new. Coil is a new lucas sport points checked and new   I have restarted and still get the occasional miss ...   I have new floats and hinge pins to fit . One of my old hinge pins was well pitted so its getting changed to remove any sticking of the float to incase there is some wear causing it to catch

OK ... on the road to getting the car back on the road and the MOT was booked.    I drove the car to the test station and clearly all was not well, loads of brake pedal travel, new master cylinder, rear cylinder, front calipers new seals and pistons.   Anyway brakes werent going to be an issue as the car was hugely hesistant then misfiring really badly so abort abort abort....   New condensor fitted a little improvement (the last one wasnt old though). The rich smell of petrol pervaded the air so screw up the jets.  Still back firing. Now I cheked the timing chain as i fitted a new one a month back all still lining up, TDC on the crank, line on the came matching the cam cap, and the dizzy rotor pointing to the rear inlet manifold so reasonably happy with timing. Check on Valve clearances. Inlet should be .008 1 . 0.0028 2. 0.005 3 correct  4 correct Exhaust should be 0.018 1 0.020 2 0.016 3 0.020 4 0.020 So i have measured and got new shims on order.   On to checking the Carbs, i rebuilt them but have had issues with float chamber overflowing, new float needles though. The floats are loose on the spindle though so may have ovalled the hole. What level should the floats be?   Compression shows the engine in not bad shape; 1 170 2 150 3 165 4 170   Ignition point coil plugs and leads are all new.  One point i have wondered about, I set the jet to level with the bridge then turn down 2 turns. However the jet bearing sits a little above the carb bridge, should the two turns be from the jet bearing or carb bridge. Any one any more ideas on where to check or tips pointers on the above much appreciated.

Resigned myself to removing the jackshaft. Couple of faults I found, the locking washer had lost the tab which went into the sprocket. The sprocket was loose on the end of the jackshaft this has in effect worn the ring down the sprocket sits over as well as the dowel/peg. All in all the sprocket was very sloppy on the shaft.   I have come to the conclusion that the jack shaft is knackered and will plump for a SH one from Rimmers (they have the 12.5% off sale atm). Accompanied by new sprocket and german chain. Hopefully this repair will account for the slight miss when running, I did think it may have been as the car had been sat for a while, perhaps its down to this.    

Changing the timing chain before I take her for a MOT .  On changing the change I noticed a lot of play on the Jackshaft sprocket. I took the sprocket off to note the dowel has flatted off on one side. The sprocket hole is also enlarged.. I might some wear on the jackshaft end too but I wont know until the new sprocket arrives. I guess this may account for the misfire  and timing mark jumping about?   Anyway has anyone had any success drilling the remains of the dowel out with jack shaft in engine?

On a late 2L with hs6 carbs what needle should I use?

That's a very good point Howard. I forgot the quarter lights have to un pop.

I brought a new hood for the TR7 as it didn't have one fitted on arrival. As such I didn't have any reference to start with.  Checking the hood purchased from Don Trimming there is a couple of loops on the B post area do these fit through the hood frame? Any one with hood photos would help.   Thanks Matt

Cheers Howard. 

Howard mine is a late car like yours , but i dont know if some of the items put in were end of the line or not as i seem to have an early dash pod.

I had a non functioning low coolant light (check you have a working bulb). I started investigation and found earthing the plug directly had no effect.  I looked up the cost of a new unit and thought that is ridiculous price! I found a handy guide on a jag forum and thought i would have a go as the parts cost me less than a fiver on Ebay, which if it didn't work wasn't much to lose and I was still the owner of a non functioning low coolant light. Anyway replacement of the parts work a treat. The low coolant light now comes on at ignition on and then goes out. Earthing the lead has the desired effect.   A cheap fix!

Howard, thanks for the research. I have been puzzling too... I have two gauges one which reads full all the time and one which has doesn't move. I took both out to examine them. The non moving one has corrosion on one of the terminals and one of the fine wires from the coil is attached to this , it appears the connection is rubbish as the electro conductive paint has come away. I plan to clean this and reattach. This unit has one less pin at the top rear to the second one. The second gauge which reads full all the time has a duff resistor, I measured the resistance on both gauges, the broken one reads around the rated 560ohms the full reading gauge is around 300ohms. Both resistors are rated for 560ohms. I plan to replace resistor and see what effect that has. I will report back soon!

          And after replacement ,the switch is the exact same size as the original.   Replace your wiring, you will know if you get the three speed wires in the wrong order due to the fan speed, just swap them over to get the order correct. Make sure the black earth goes in the right spot which is on its on by the lever.   Reward yourself with a mug of tea.

Like many of you I had a heater blower with one speed setting, here is my instructional repair;   First off you need to get the offending part out, yes sorry its a dashboard out moment please read your workshop manual for this. The item is located on top of the heater unit at rear under the thick cable. It unclips so no screw driver is required. The following picture is where the item resides.   Undo the connectors and remove the wire noting original installation, a plug on the top of the heater, two wires from the heater and 4 wires from the control lever bottom right. Now the offending item is the Otter Switch labelled G6d. My problem was where to source one, Ebay was selling them for over £30 each. I figured there was a large profit on this. I emailed Otter controls and asked them they had a minimum order of £250, again i didnt want this option. But they were very helpful and put me on to the Rover SD1 club who sold the switch for £16 delivered. I guessed there are so many similarities between the two cars this would do. I did have some numbers on the side of my switch but Otter told me they are a build date of June 1981 and rated for 110C . So I learnt my car is a really late build TR7. The part arrived in a couple of days     Next to set about the old unit , it was a case of unsoldering and drilling out the rivets, and then soldering and rivettin g a 2.4mm rivett mine was 6mm long and could have done with being 10mm but it held firm so i wasnt too worried.  

Took the resisitor out and had a look, the otter temp switch is well cruddy so did some research and the RoverSD1 club sell them for £16 delivered, I am going to replace and see how we go.   The handbrake switch is my stupidity i forgot to connect the plug in the harness.    The Petrol guage problem still remains though.

I am moving on a pace with the TR7 the heater is back in and i connected power to the ancillaries before putting the whole dash back in. Problems I have are fuel gauge; I had a new tank and sender. I have measured Voltage at the sender unit its 12v and the earth is good. The rear of the gauge has a measurement of 12v on one 3v on another. The needle shows no movement even when the sender wire is earthed. I have a spare Gauge so swapped it over and this time the gauge reads full the reading at the back is 12v and 6v this time.  Now i think i have checked everything, is it time for another gauge? (the tank has about 15L of petrol in). On the handbrake light front , there is a light for Hand brake but this doesnt illuminate but the BRAKE light does. This should be the light for the pressure switch? How do i get the HAND BRAKE light to illuminate   Heater; I have only action on one setting on the heater blower, it this a broken resistor? if so can i repair ?  

As I moved forward along the passenger floor pan cutting out metal and welding in new I got to the front. There was a patch in the wheel arch on both sides of the car where the fire wall is. Any way a quick run around with the wire brush on the grinder found a hole then another then another. A suspicious large amount of filler around the wheel arch led to me deciding the wing needed to come off this is my finding.       Yes that is payen gasket card!

Rebuilding the rear suspension and it appears the bolts are imperial not metric size is this correct? The bolt appear more to be 7/16 in size.

Ahh lovely thought as they were a bit smaller and more widely available they would be better.     @Theo  did you upgrade the fuse box from glass fuses, I am thinking Blade fuses may be useful.   I have a rusty late boot and a older boot with almost no rust and a recessed lock, can i use the older boot instead of my new one?

Are the 5 pin round relays the same as the more modern 5 pin square ones?

Looks very good, mine is a bit more rudimentary, neoprene foam cut to size with craft knife. The old one was my template.

Ahh that one was disengaged i think its the intake flap? The demist direction vent on mine was siezed think thats what caused the lever to pop off the shaft It will all be moving freely when reassembled and free from leaks! The bulkhead seal I will make my own as it appears it isnt available

Thats the bit Howard, a clamp aaah I'll try that. At the moment its out and in pieces, going to replace the foams on the flaps, got a new heater matrix from Robsport, but i have come to the conclusion the pipes are knackered too.   

Hmmm... not seen it before the bolts usually rust to the metal tube through the bush. Cant see the need to spot weld them in place. There should be a ridge on the bracket to stop the head of the bolt spinning , if this was taken off that might explain it.  The bolt shouldnt spin as it will wear the bracket, the trunnion and schock bottom bolts will happily oval out the bottom wish bone holes requiring a spot weld of a washer.