Matt306

I use my TR7 as my daily driver all year round, its quick enough for modern traffic. The lights though were a little underwhelming. In went relays, out came the sealed beams, clear lens 7" and a paid of the H4 LED from Classic Car Leds. It doesn't look original but when i am driving at night the road is fully illuminated and I for me thats a plus over the look every time as safety is non negotiable, (especially with original TR7 brakes!) Fitting was a bit fiddly the units are air cooled with no fan , I dont worry to much about the space as if the lights are on its most likely dark and the less traffic so i am moving along to aid cooling. The bowl does needed a bit of drilling from memory to fit the plug through. If i remember tonight I'll try to get a couple of pictures with the LEDs

Bit more investigation with a can of brake cleaner. I took the cam cover off and filled the space behind the breather with brake cleaner, none was coming out of the breather. This section appears to be covered by a plate and wire mesh underneath. After sever squirts and a soak some started coming out. So I imagine my original assessment of not being blocked may have been incorrect. That EFI build is a bit different to mine as I chose some more modern equivalents, plus I thought with the Brake master on a different side it would foul the factory plenum , even if i could get one. My set up doesnt use the cold start injector and a TPS with throttle body.

Hoping someone may have a bright idea here. I converted my TR7 to run on Fuel Injection this meant replacing the manifold new plenum and a throttle body. The old crank breather was router to the carbs, I have now routed it to before the butterfly on the throttle body, helpfully there is an inlet there for it. I have removed the fuel pump and blocked it off. The rest of the engine is pretty standard apart from the fuel delivery of course. Now the car like to lose as much of its oil as possible through the rocker cover spray it out. Breather hose is clear so I cant understand why the pressure would force its way out of the cam cover gasket (its silicone btw) as opposed to taking the easier breather route. I can blow through the rocker breather in to the cam cover so I don't think that's blocked. Any ideas? Cheers Matt

Taken the head off the 7 as had water seepage. The valves have a bit of lateral movement so will get the guides fixed.

Update.... been out for our first drive with EFI. Now essentially we are still driving an 8V OH Cam car so we have to accept limitation.... however what a remarkable difference. I had Tuner Studio running auto tune for my 20 mile drive out. The car is so different to the old hesitant twin carb set up. We accelerate far more willingly in any gear. Even managed to drop it into third for a couple of cheeky overtakes.

Last video the car is on idle, yes its rock solid not moving an inch something i never managed on Carbs. 20220105_165759.mp4

Right so this is sort of the finished article in terms of wiring as you can see I have wrapped it all in loom tape. The strut brace allows for the loom to be attached in place with some zip ties. I got a bit lucky here as i forget to test fit the brace with the plenum in. I have soldered in 4 5ohm 25w resistors to protect the ECU as speeduino doesnt like to play with Low-Z injectors. I have yet to add an Idle control Valve. The tuning software does allow for this so adjusts for this. Below is the engine revving it needs a run on the road, but is revving freely 20220105_150234.mp4

So where are we now??? Well we have life! its not pretty but "SHE'S ALIVE!!!" (All cars are female aren't they?) 20211230_114919.mp4 Above is the start, needs some tweaking and tuning i think . Loom needs tidying and wrapping. It will run along the top of the of the strut brace. At the bottom you can see the throttle body this is from a rover 200. The accelerator cable is the TR7 one but the end cut off and shortened. I used a little cable clamp to get it in to the hole on the quadrant. The throttle body leads on to a K&N Filter . Throttle body also has a couple of inlets on the other side I'll connect the rocker breather to one of these. No 1&2 injectors clamped into place. The pressure regulator is on the side with the fuel return rail. Spaghetti Wiring, yes i know where its going! More spaghetti wiring Just a shot of the plenum and the throttle body attached. I made all this myself yes its not pretty but it works! Part of my problems with the 7 injection manifold was the changing of the cooling pipes. Here you can see my 2 new pipe which i have welded on to a piece of steel which attached to the fuel pump cover. Far left is a brass plug which was the original take off for water for the heater. Its plugged now and rerouted via the top pipe to the thermostat housing More coolant pipe shots And again the whole shot. I must be quite proud of them as i have taken do many shots of it!

Well todays efforts were concentrating on completing the fuelling circuit... its all connected not pretty but connected and no leaks! I need to secure the large fuel filter cannister to the bulkhead. The fuel circuit works, the pressure regulator on the fuel rail allows for a measured 38PSI of pressure . My biggest problem though is the injectors seem to be dead, earlier this year they were all happily clicking away but now nothing nada nil... much annoyance. The ECU connects up and all seems good. I think I may just end up buying new injectors rather than faffing ... but christmas gets in the way.

Dolly Club had them earlier this year, I brought some very nicely made too. You have to join the club to buy them though , I think all in it was around £100

It will be a lot easier on your car as you are RHD , I have a brake servo in the way and the steering rack. I looked at the original plenum and it looks like it would foul on my brake servo or clutch M/C

No updates for a day or so, there isnt much to show, but I must admit I could have photo'd more! This is my EFI manifold when I got it it had been knocked about a bit and required some milling and building up of one of the injector port. My problem came with when i went to attach 7 UNC setscrews to the head. The eagle eyed of you will notice the top two bolt holes don't line up with the gasket, they didnt on the head. My solution was a bit basic but worked and I tested the flatness after I had done my work. I finger tightened the manifold to the head with the 5 good holes then a long scaffold pipe bent it back into shape, its an alloy metal so all should be good. This second photo just illustrates how good it is to have proper ratchett crimpers to make the plug connectors, they are only a few quid and the neatness is brilliant. I have the engine bay nearly sorted, the wiring is all connected, apart from the fan, which can be a sucker or a blower depending on if i plug the wires in correctly. To be honest it never comes on except when in traffic. I have a blue wire to connect to the fan relay it should all be controlled by the ECU. The injectors are controlled by the ECU on a pair basis as i only have a crank trigger. At a later date i may try to fit a trigger wheel to the cam or redundant distributor so I can go full sequential, which the ECU allows for. They are connected by 10amp fused connection from a fuse box for each pair (1+4 and 2+3) with the earth . The fuse box is a 6 blade trigger by a relay on the ignition, this allows the feeds for the ECU, Coil, Relays and Tacho driver. I have connection for Air Temp and Coolant which share a joint Earth back to the ECU. The TPS is supplied with 5v from the ECU, its a three wire TPS. I'll do some more photos of the wiring. One problem I am pondering is connecting the accelerator pedal to the Throttle, haven't worked that out yet. My adapted fuel gauge sender with a return pipe added is going in tomorrow with some piping for the fuel pump and filter. Its not pretty but should work. I have some zip ties holding my plenum up at the moment I need to fabricate some support for underneath thats not the problem it where to attach them on the block .

Time for an update; After my failed RBRR attempt I rebuilt the gearbox and off we went. For the last couple of months I have been running Ignition only from Speeduino, its proving stable and reliable and the engine a bit more perky. Perhaps the stronger spark and stable timing help? Anyway time to bite the bullet and get on with the fuel injection. Today i stripped the manifold and water pump top. There is a difference in the in water circulation on the set ups. On the carbs i have a take off at the rear of the head for heater feed. From the heater the pipe return along the carbs to the water pump cover. On the EFI manifold there is feed for the heater at the and the pipe runs to the rear along with a differing return pipe. These are held together and clamp on to the engine where the carb fuel pump was. Of course these are unobtainable so I am making my own. Another difference is the heater connection is on the front of the manifold as opposed to the top. There are three electrical connections, for temp guage, and EFI and a time delay heat switch , i wont be using this connection but will leave it in as a plug. I already have fabricated a plenum, not pretty but hopefully will do the job it has a rover 200 throttle body on the bottom. My trial fit should allow me to find some securing points on the engine to support this heavy lump. This is the differing water pump covers, 12 vane pumps the EFI is on the left. This is the old carb thermostat the difference is clear on the below EFI one. The three electrical connections on top and heater connection on the front. The heater connection is on the bottom. Engine stripped off. Fuel pump cover. This pic shows the new EFI water pump cover and a new Stainless steel pipe connecting it to the rear heater pipe. That U Bend pipe needs to go and be connected to manifold at the front, I'll use a bit of pipe and some 90degree bends. The pipe is 3/4 inch Here is my new EFI manifold inplace, not bolted tightly down just some nuts nipped up. The rubber runners connect the plenum. They are too long, i needed 45degree pipe hoses for this and will cut them down. The originals are no longer obtainable. Here is my plenum popped on it needs some positioning first off!

House jobs have stopped work and varying problems with a Peugeot 207 . I am going to fuel inject the TR7 then it will be back to Stag Rescue.

I sold my Herald to buy a TR7

I sold my Yellow Spit IV which allowed me to purchase a very rusty Stag....

I loved the start... although couldnt hear the driver briefing at the start even with megaphone. 55miles later I lost my gearbox oil due to a defective seal. I had no other seal (why would you), luckily I stopped and plumes of smoke told me my run was over, the car still goes into gear and drives, i am just flushing the bits out. I had no option but to withdraw. A Whatsapp for users to log into to send messages as well as the organisers one may help for quick circulation of SOS. Sometimes things just fox us, and with tiredness sometimes pulling out is the best option.

Well done Pete good to see you still going

Update as to my withdrawal, I got home last night , the car drove into the garage. Checking the gear oil a dribble of burnt oil came out, the rest is probably on the A1 or on my route down. I know 1.5L went into the gearbox before i left. The rear output seal appear to be at fault and a very loose fit on the prop shaft flange. 20211002_151450.mp4

Think I made 50 miles before the gearbox decided to jettison its oil out. Car 114 out

Cock.... I may check again now Pete. My Spit on the C2C a couple of years back had the Duck tape treatment and blue roll. My TR7 hasnt leaked.... yet, but it hasnt done a RBRR yet.

It's not the car but I painted it today and I like it...

Brilliant Mr Jim...

To be honest with the present fuel problems I thought about pedals.