Matt306

Yep you will get some heat soak on a restart also in slow moving traffic. You can use your PI setup and mod it with a Speeduino set up this will allow you to get rid of coil and dizzy and allow the car to have fully programmable ignition and fuelling. Depends how original you want it, but the benefits of modern ignition and fuelling will be night and day.

Aran , Welcome to Worcester Triumph owners. You have a few local triumph owner who can help you out. Drop me a message and i can add you to our Worcester Whatsapp group.

sold

Sensible approach to pricing Tim.... particularly if your car ends up on the back of a tow truck after 50 miles 😳 Time to set a calendar reminder....

I would also consider moving your air intake forward of the radiator as you will be sucking in hot air in summer months this will effect the running of the car particularly in slow moving traffic. One for the future though.

Clearly an electrical problem, white is usually the switched live . Looking at the back of your alternator on the picture the brown wires aren't covered in loom tape, no real issue with that but they look like they have been over heated. Are they feeling in flexible and hard? I think the ignition light needs a connection to the alternator to work as its the exciter wire. Check the wiring to the coil as I am pretty sure Triumph didn't use a red wire which means if its been extended or replaced its spliced into the loom somewhere, if it with some spade terminals i would consider using solder and heat shrink for a more permanent solution.

On the attached pic you'll see an Injection manifold for the TR7 it's different to the carb manifold as is the water pump cover. If you follow the outlet pipe to the left a bit you'll see three sensors one is for the dash one for the ECU and there is another I have replaced with the thermal sensor for the water pump. Yes it controls the fan by switching the earth for a relay

Indeed they are pricey however I snapped my combo kit from Demon Tweeks for 202 the next day they were back to 285 I guess a mistake was made but fair play they honoured the price. The water pump for the TR7 is 286 so this should be a good investment and avoid any jackshaft jams

I think given the information from the temp sensor in the thermostat housing it was pumping plenty of water through... too much I think! The instructions says it's ideal to remove mechanical pump and thermostat but if the thermostat is left in to drill a couple of 3mm holes to allow pass through. That's the plan...

I did wonder that but it was getting some warmth through yesterday with no thermostat so guess it's working well enough not as warm as it was though.

The small pump is mounted as per the picture above the lid goes on with a pipe going to the heater matrix and another in from the radiator. That pump then is connected via an open port into the water jacket. The thermostat is higher up housed in the inlet manifold... spot the round hole next to the inlets for the valves. The only other pipe connected to that thermostat housing is the heater return. The other one is the radiator return. So with the thermostat closed the water pump pumps water against a closed door. I think we all feel a draft when we open a door on a windy day. Same principle I think.

Glang... we might be wrong again but yes the thermostat does shut off the top hose return to the radiator. The old water pump would spin around unable to pull water into the block or move it as its full. @RobPearce I really don't follow your logic . Davies Craig i imagine spend a lot of money researching there water pumps which are marketed for sports and performance. I am not the only person who has replaced the water pump in the TR7 with an electrical pump. I seriously doubt one end of the water jacket has a difference in the water temp to the other. Air locks aren't a problem as I took a sensor out and confirmed water was at the highest point and the instructions state to override the pump to turn it on to pump our airlock. Another reason for removing the water pump is I replaced this about a year ago at a cost of nearly 300 and it leaks already. I have read stories if the waterpump siezing and the jackshaft locking then snapping the timing chain.

The instructions clearly state remove the thermostat which is why I did. The pump is in the bottom pipe pumping from the radiator into the block. It's essentially in the same position as the original waterpump was but a bit upstream. As none of the waterways have been blocked I don't get how you think it's only pumping water around the radiator. The pump also pulses when the engine is warming up so circulates water all the time.

In my bid to squeeze every last HP out of my TR7 4 pot I have dispensed with the water pump. Those lovers of the TR7 engine will know the water pumps are an achilles heel for this motor. They are known to leak the seals go and water goes in to the sump... Well what a silly idea that is. With this mod fitted the jack shaft only drives my oil pump and distributor (I dont need the dizzy but the bottom of the shaft drives the oil pump) So I have fitted a Davies Craig EWP80 water pump and fan controller. This eliminates the water pump altogether, EJ Hughes sells a bung for the Stag engine so its the same pump so that fitted nicely a tap home for a snug fit. Lid back on and install the water pump and wiring. The 12v permanent and switched are required as well as an earth , the pump(and fan) will run on for 3 minutes after shut off to clear heat soak in the engine or until the engine is 10c below operating temp. The display allows for a setting of the fan switch on (88) a temp sensor to the thermostat housing (an adapter is included for the top pipe). The pump mounts in the bottom hose and needs no brackets for support its not much bigger than a hand in size. The thermostat isnt needs so thats ditched. Test runs and the car will get up to temp sitting at idle, but driving no chance I get to 62 maybe 72 at a heavy acceleration. I think i'll have to drill a couple of holes in the thermostat to assist the temp rising a bit higher. The problem with this temp is the ECU is fuelling as if it is on warmup cycle. There is a few pics for review by yourselves.

Fitter Spax Shocks and new springs to the TR7 Notices some weeping from water pump... stupid new stock 300 and leaking already.. time for an electric pump and a plug for that pesky pump.

Might be the way to go then.

Howard any thoughts as to why not on a 195/50 r15 they are slightly cheaper which is a bonus but obviously loses a bit of side wall. The Circumference of the tyre is only 3mm bigger than the 175/70r13 tyre recommended for the 7 so should keep speedo readings the same. I ask in case there is some blundering buffoonery I have missed.

To fit some (Proper) brakes on the TR7 i have got a set of 15" MGF alloys. They come with 205/50 r15 and 185/55 r15 tyres on which need replacing. I can go 205 all round but might be a bit much for the small bearings on front wheels or go 185 all round or go 195/50 r15 all round(This appears to be cheapest option). Any TR7 enthusiast have an opinion for me to mull over? These Tyres have added benefit of less flab in the side walls too so should improve road holding , especially with my adjustable Spax shocks going in.

Pair of solid carb mounts for TR7 or Dolomite with HS6 carbs. Replace those leaky rubbers mounts. These are used but I converted my tr7 to fuel injection so no longer needed. Will likely need some new o rings but some sealant will work just as well. I am looking for 75 pound for the pair delivered

Make me an offer on any of the below

Thanks all

Tim that's excellent news, with everything going up in price it makes a welcome change.... I only managed 40 miles last time do I get an extra discount 😉 ?

My RBRR wasn't very successful

Put these on my old herald they were good

Thanks both . I have brought tape before only to lose the badges. I did like those metal badges with prongs going through the panel. Don't suppose the are very waterproof though