Matt306

TR7 are so underrated.... Now my 7 is running with K&N panel filter, 4port manifold and BAL needles its quite nice and has a nice pull . Plus growing up in the 80s i remember these cars with fondness.

Get some fresh fuel in there, chances are in a year its started to go off

Replaced my gearbox mount which was well overdue. Fitted powerlite starter

No the problem remains. Its all connected as above . The wire warming bits remains. I think i probably got too much degreaser and water in it and stuffed it. I have a Powerlite starter on order now so i dont have problems on C2C or RBRR.

Terminals are all clean and bright, I took the starter off to fit new header pipes. I cleaned the starter motor off and the terminals. Now with the wires connected and no ignition on or key turned the solenoid gets hot .

main terminal..... I have two terminals one connected to the main motor, the other with a brown (alternator) and a red wire (Battery) connected to it, this gets hot. The other smaller terminal is red and white this isnt so warm. When the key is turned the motor does turn. I assume there is a short in the solenoid part of the starter.

yep tried them, too

Cleaned the connectors ; Its getting hot without cranking it.

Took my starter motor off tonfit new exhaust and cleaned the huge load of crud off it. I have now noticed a the screw down terminal connected to the battery is hot to touch . I presume the solenoid is bust?

Injections were sold in the USA , it is a little difficult to get hold of looks like the below.

Yes to both

That bloody bolt is a right pain to get to... 1/4 is the only way to go

Some time ago I fitted a gasket to my exhaust manifold to head as there was a leak.... the leak is back. One of the previous owners has fitted Helicoils to the head where the manifold bolts on to so i get some good torque on the manifold. One of the down pipe studs is broken off but thats not where the leak is. Any reason why the gasket should blow so soon?

Howard not done any more to my wiring than fit the LEDs and supply unit. I have previously fitting relays for headlights though, although probably dont need them now with LEDs. Here is the product i used https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs/products/latest-led-headlights-h4-philips-z-es-hi-lo-beam-conversion-9-32v

Funnily enough I was just looking at that page on your excellent blog.... I use your blog as a TR7 Workshop Manual.

Jim the H4 bulbs i got for my 7 have a screw on heatsink, they can go on either way with my 7 bowls i turned the around to more fit the contour of the bowl. I had to enlarge the wiring hole marginally to fit through a round plug which goes to a supply box. The headlight wiring plug connects to this. I used some electrical prongs to remove the plastic on the wiring to take the original plug back through the bowl. Wish i had taken some pics now! The light is much better I am pleased i paid more for a decent LED as there are some poor ones out there with awful light patterns.

I have old rubber carb mounts on my TR7 . I read the reviews of new ones being rubbish. I opted for the solid carb mounts from The Dolomite owners club. Cost a smidge under 100 for both carbs. You'll see the new ones have a proud sealing ring the old ones had gone. A gasket would sort this but this doesn't solve the rubber. The build and quality excellent and they fitted on easily. The plates come with 4 studs to attach the carb.

I use led on my 7 but the headlight flash still works. I got mine from classic car leds. I didn't fancy cheap Chinese stuff. The light pattern is excellent.

Entered although not sure if I am number 51 or higher. Processing payment took a bit of time but all good on a mobile device.

The carb mounts 20210513_181544.mp4

Added a proper fuel cap and new seals . Checked plugs quite clean. I think my carb mounts are fooked. I have ordered solid mounts from Dolomite Club the new ones offered are apparently rubbish

Sorry @Beans I pinched your black look on the back panel. I have done all the paint work so admire at 10metres

I was hoping beans would chirp up! I did have a look at his excellent blog but couldnt find the information i want. The kits are great but I am wondering if i can save some pennies by buying seperately. I found these brand new https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153461605920?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D232196%26meid%3Dd5d1688217e544a897572312954463ae%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D153461286829%26itm%3D153461605920%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb%26brand%3DOE+Quality+Friction&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851|from ebay just wondering what else i need.

I have my Tr7 2.0l with the uninspiring brakes up front. Having read I can buy a kit from S&S for £395 plus vat. The brain then went on to the plan I can probably assemble it for less than that. Ebay has Princess spaced callipers for 150 however I am not sue of how the fitting works etc. I have the factory 13 alloys. Any help/guide/pointers appreciated.

I am After the Tr7 injection manifold for the standard 2.0l Lump. DM me please if you have one with price.