Matt306

TR7 has been having some home paint applied in a Metallic Silver leaf , at present its an improvement but not by any means showroom fresh paint... I need more practice!

The top lever controlling fan speed is all good, that operates the pawl at the top. I too used the G clamp method to get the bits together, i think they came loose as the flaps were siezed. The far right lever which operates the up down flow of air is the problem it goes up and down but wont hold in place.

On my tr7 the far right control for the heater doesn't have any positive engagement..no clicking any ideas? The flaps move but I can't leave it up or down just midway.

Thanks Tim I must have missed that link.

Christ I dont want to introduce any water at all to any Triump....

Looks a good drive out Chris. When do entries open, or have i missed some link on the new site?

I always liked your blog Beans, you do a fantastic job of your TR7. Pleased to hear the long pedal travel is not just me! If i press hard enough the car comes to a stop, i rebuilt the brakes with new seals and caliper piston, new rear cylinder, green stuff brake pads up front. I have looked at varying ideas but would like to keep the stock wheels which limits stuff. The Capri M16 calipers seem a good idea then and the spacers readily available.

Howard, I have seen some repro princess calipers in Ebay (160) which seem good. I have stock TR7 calipers and while it will stop, there is plenty of travel on the pedal which alarms me despite bleeding. With the engine off i get a firm pedal. I was wondering if the princess calipers are worth it. I have stock 13" alloys

Today I fitted my knew steering UJ to the steering column and new upper and lower bushes. A tiny turn on the steering wheel equals a tiny turn at the wheels. My home made strut brace is fitted too. Looking forward to getting out tomorrow morning.

So nice to have a busy forum back... here is today's activity.. replacing the bulkhead steering Bush on the TR7 . Removal led me to find a small amount of play in the UJ on the shift so new ones ordered and new upper column bushes ordered now. The upper shaft felt like it had some sticky gluey type wax some panel wipe got rid of it. Have a look at the inside of that nylon bush 20210421_103244.mp4

I know someone else who had that problem in 2018 at the start line in his 2000... Rich?

Well done on the new look website and the speedy responsive forum.

Well we have an MOT which covers the event, most of the suspension has been replaced, several holes welded up. But the paint needs plenty of work, carpets are ordered and need fitting. TR7 should be a nice cabin to be in then.

My very late TR7 is first registered 1982 but Heritage certificate shows production 5th October 1981 so I will probably get free tax next year i think?   Its quite a nice date as its my daughters birthdate.

I have aquired a strut brace for my TR7 (standard 8valve engine) when i got to fit it i am about 10mm too short. This leads me to believe with i have either a strut brace which is made too short or the body has misaligned and the tower tops spread. I have done some welding around them but nothing huge which involved removing the tops of the tower. Has anyone got any idea of the width of the towers at the top so i can compare?

Thanks Beans, took me a couple of moments to remember you are LHD!  I contacted Steve at S&S to pick his brains too the response is useful to anyone else with a similar problem; "Hi Matt, the Rotor arm pointing is not an exact science. If it is running fine now then it must have been 1 tooth out on the dizzy."   I booked the MOT again and took her on the open road and she pulled well getting up to speed nicely, i was quite surprised how well to be honest. I now have a nice MOT ticket , obtained tax and we are road legal.   Going to shake down some gremlins now, when its a little warmer it will be paint time.

Entirely possible i suppose, but I am not sure as it was sounding much more healthy after my tinkering. I reset the carbs again and have her down to idling at 1000rpm. I suppose i may have to try the screwdriver in the spark plug hole to be sure the timing mark is in the correct spot.

Entirely possible i suppose, but I am not sure as it was sounding much more healthy after my tinkering. I reset the carbs again and have her down to idling at 1000rpm. I suppose i may have to try the screwdriver in the spark plug hole to be sure the timing mark is in the correct spot.

Booked for another MOT on Monday... fingers crossed.

 Yes my herald and spit were cast iron pulleys. When i had the TR7 one off I thought it the same but must admit i didnt pay much attention to it.

Right , gear tooth moved one more clockwise so the dizzy arm is pointing more towards inlet tubes now than rear manifold bolt and all is good! Who knows why mine is like this but considering it was build 5/10/81 I guess it was what left over stuff was left!

Yes when i rotated the leads i turned the dizzy back.   I was only at 2000rpm as it had just started on choke and i have to fiddle with the carbs again having adjusted the valves. When fully warm I will go at idle.   I am thinking i need to take the dizzy out and rotate the shaft a gear tooth.

Thanks for the reply, The gunson light is this one https://www.gunson.co.uk/Product/77008/Timing-Light-with-Advance-Feature the dial on the back allows you to adjust from 0 to 60 degrees advance allowing you just to line the marks up. So effectively I dialled in 20degrees which is what the WSM specifies for 2000rpm which should mean the line aligns at 0 with the crank mark. If i set the dial to 0 it means i should line up the crank with the 10 BTDC at around 1000 rpm with vacuum disconnected.    If you watch the video you will see the white marks jump as well in a couple of places.

one more

Hopefully some pics will help, been out again swapped leads around one turn around didnt star back to the original position then. Start car and attach timing light, i have a gunson timing light which allows me to dial in the advance on the back. I set it 20 as the car was running at 2000rpm, manual suggests this is the total advance at 2000 rpm.  I had to turn the dizzy to the extreme to bring the line to 10 BTDC line so still in some advance.  Whilst running the light missed a pick up and this corresponded with the engine noise stuttering. Hopefully the video plays i have attached.