Matt306

Has anyone got recommendation for sticking on badges to the car. I am meaning the British Leyland ones and 2.0 Litre signs on the TR7 but I suppose other cars had the BL badge too.

Not sure if this is allowed... so apologies up front if not allowed. I have a few bits on Ebay at the moment Twin SU HS6 from a TR7 Stainless steel under carb pipe (89 from Robsport) Oil Cooler for a Spitfire Solid Alloy Carb mounts for HS6 for a TR7 / Dolomite. Search Pigboy3060 user. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=&_in_kw=1&_ex_kw=&_sacat=0&_udlo=&_udhi=&_ftrt=901&_ftrv=1&_sabdlo=&_sabdhi=&_samilow=&_samihi=&_sadis=15&_stpos=BN3+6PL&_sargn=-1%26saslc%3D1&_salic=3&_fss=1&_fsradio=%26LH_SpecificSeller%3D1&_saslop=1&_sasl=Pigboy3060&_sop=12&_dmd=1&_ipg=60

Have you cleaned the cable drive and wheel box... I bet if you havent thats full of hard grease slowing everything

May two penneth when i had a Herald... Yes definitely Alternator over a Dyno. Put a fuse box in... 2 fuses was an economy and a modern 12 blade fusebox is cheap as chips. After that go relays on the lights protect the old wiring and old switches. When you have done that you can go modern 7inch Halogens or LED (less current draw although the relays will protect)

Not much happening as I seen to spend most of my time on my daughter 207. However since the C2C I have moved the inlet air temp sensor and cold air feed to the front of the car. I have a spin on oil filter and oil change waiting. Wheel bearing front nearside to be changed. Tr7 still going well given its age. I have a spare engine waiting for a rebuild. I also have some SD1 four pot calipers to play with too

I have had a look at some pictures of 4 pot calipers and it certainly appears a couple of pipes are feeds. I'll get some pics of my rusty calipers to show you.

Rimmers supply it as a kit damned if I know what the disc is though although the TR7 upgrade book gives me a clue on size etc but not where from. Also the sd1 calipers have three bleed nipples how does that work

I think a 5mm spacer is required

Got some 15inch mgf to go on

Hello all. I am fitting a brake upgrade to my TR7 I have found some SD1 vittesse calipers which rimmers base their upgrade kit on . Now I could purchase there vented discs but they are Pricey and I suspect they have the rimmer mark up. Anyone any idea what discs they are

Thanks @shenderson. Anything is saveable... it depends if you have the will money and time. I do mine very much as a hobby, my TR7 is my daily driver as its not that valuable its 2l its fuel injected tax free and i like tan check. The stag is a lovely car and is my 4th car resto i am taking my time... driver side then passenger, then flip it over for a clean and paint in 2k. My advice is split it down to sections and tackle a section at a time.

So more fiddling today Outer sill attached and also the suspension mounting point attached. Going to start on the area around the rear seat and wheel arch next. With that done I'll move back to the A post and front. I can jack the car up now though...

Yep those are anti burst catches. If not fitted you should find dimples on b post and door to add them

Bracket now repaired so we can hold up the suspension! It's not pretty but solid

A bit more of an update for you all. We have been running for 5 months or so. I am largely very happy with the conversion providing far more torque. I took the car for a rolling road dyno run with the bhp reaching 124 at the wheels. Now the car was designed to generate 106 on carbs etc so I'll take this as an improvement. Only other engine changes are a 4 branch manifold and the k&n air filter. I am suffering from hot air coming into the intake so I need to route the filter to the front but space is tight. I can't recommend tunerstudio MS enough especially for the autotune for the fuel table. Going forward I want to get another engine so I can rebuild it mines on 88000 miles so a rebuild would be good.

If its a convertible, I imagine its the anti burst catch which stops the doors from opening when the chassis flex. Similar ones are installed on a lot of the convertible cars. Rimmers have nice diagrams as do Canley classics so you can reference which part you need. If it is striker plates on the b post I think I may have some.

Right back to it today. I am still working around the area behind the heel board where the suspension mounts. It's very rotten there buy as you can see new metal is going in. My hardest bit is fixing the bracket for the suspension. This is made in pure unobtanium so I have had to improvise with plaster of Paris to make a mould from the opposite side I have welded in a thick washer and will weld that with 2mm sheet steel pieces. No it won't be pretty but it will work and that's fine.

Loads of 1300 lumps available on Ebay probably cheaper than Rimmers. The 13/60 is a lovely little car. Try Canley Classics and James Paddocks too. I think the 1300 Triumph is a different engine, the herald shared the same engine as the Spit. Stick a Spit mk IV head on with twin carbs for some extra pep.

I liked Fuzz's shows but that Tim bloke I could do without , all the staged 'blagging' or parts its nonsense. I also have a Wonderstuff Album too.

This is my present advance curve under varying loads of the engine vs RPM This is the advance curve generated from MSsquirt Initial Spark Advance Table Calculator (useasydocs.com) The biggest difference being the load values which is each line One final one shows the advance curve with little to no Quench as per the settings

Different Dave Walker then. I use the Speeduino Ecu from DIY-EFI, Core 4 Ecu it runs my plugs very well . Its good ecu and good value for money. It allowed the adaptation of injection manifold which Triumph themselves made. The Injectiors used are low impedence though so i did need resistors in the loom.

Not sure of who Dave Walker or Alan Warburton are. I do know a David Walker from Club Triumph, a thoroughly pleasant chap I assume they are different people.

Below I have taken the values from the TR7 manual , you can see the book manual doesn't have many values particularly for the Vacuum advance which I have converted to Kpa to the left. So I add the centrifugal advance and 10 (the static advance) so it increases to a maximum of 28 Degrees BTDC then we add on the vacuum advance as well depending on load. The one snag I have is the book only gives 5 values for vacuum advance. Centrifugal Engine RPM Min Max mean book manual 1 600 0 0 0 x 2 800 0 1 0.5 3 1000 0 2 1 x 4 1300 1.8 5 3.4 5 1800 3.7 7.7 5.7 x 6 2100 6 9.8 7.9 7 2400 8 12 10 x 8 2700 9 13 11 9 3200 10 14 12 x 10 4000 12 16 14 11 4800 14 18 16 x 12 5400 16 18 17 13 6000 18 18 18 x 14 6200 13 13 13 15 6700 6 6 6 16 7000 0 0 0 x Vacuum ins hg Min Max mean 10.15 3 0 0 0 16.93 5 2.6 9.34 5.97 23.7 7 12 16 14 33.86 10 12 16 14 67.72 20 16 16 16

This is my load cell at the moment, I based it off the TR7 Dizzy mapping, taken from the manual. I added the Centrifugal and vacuum advance together +10 for the static timing to give a total advance. It runs on E10 fuel which i think takes longer to ignite than old four star so i guess dialling in +2 degrees to everything may be a good idea.

Here are my LEDs last night I stopped on the main road I hadn't cleaned the lenses before.