Matt306
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Everything posted by Matt306
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Mine had lots of holes I found a new one on ebay with no drain plug.... BONZAR!!!
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I asked on TSSC forum when I was on the rebuild and was advised the rear face of the front cross member was the datum line, I have since learnt this was the too far forward I think its the bolts on the uprights isn't it? Feel free to refer to my diagram where I have marked several points. I think I have pulled the whole gubbins forward by about 5-10mm which is blooming annoying. I have it all bolted down though which is a bonus and the doors close. I think my winter project will be stripping the out riggers off but this time using a wooden framed jig I think. I guess the cost will be some paint , and skin off my knuckles and new fuel and brake lines. Ho hum... unless someone has a better idea??
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I think its something to do with having to weld on 6 completely new outriggers 7 if you include the one holding the exhaust up too! When the chassis came the body was welded to the outriggers, when i say welded there wasn't much metal there. So I couldn't do one at a time it was just a case of grind them all off and start again with the workshop manual. With hindsight I think I may have changed a few things such as do some maths and work out the diagonals and make a wooden jig to peg the outriggers. Oh well its done now. I keep my eye out for another chassis as if I can find another I think I will try again with the benefit of hindsight. I have tilted the bulkhead forward to get the door to shut, I cant recall how many penny washers are there, I'll photo it . The other side is a great fit annoyingly! The door does shut so that's important and it might well just be enough to get it through the MOT.
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How advanced!
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Headlight flash? In which case havin re-read u r correct
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I cant move the bonnet back any more, nor the door forward. The drivers door shuts (just) but good enough for the MOT. Its 5 years since i got the Herald , I think i am going to bung it in for MOT as is... the remainder will be restored on the road. I know the handbrake is a common failure point but mine seems to hold the car with it on so fingers crossed. Any other common maladies?
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Thanks for the reply
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Not had it dark enough to notice that!
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Ok bit confused about how the light switches should work. The master switch has two positions, the first position activates the side lights and the column switch allowing the column switch to switch the lights between dip and main. The second position on the master appears there fore redundant.... have i got this wired up wrong? Just checking before I put the relay in
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A few years back i acquired my very rotten 1970 Herald 13/60. The drivers door was beyond saving and so i salvaged the locks winder and glass and binned the rest. I found a Vitesse door but it has a different lock mechanism and also a the screw at the front edge for securing the quarter light is not recessed under a plug. The door doesn't fit quite as well either.... is there any difference between herald/vitesse doors apart from the lock mechanism? Anyone got a late Herald door near Worcestershire?
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I am going to put a couple of relays in for my headlights and put a fuse box in too. My Herald is a negative earth 13/60 I have already put an alternator in. Now reading the electrical wiring diagram it appears the headlights are protected by a fuse already to the main switch. Has anyone added extra in?
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It might be the engine its come from. The head on it is a Spitfire head, i found this out when i ordered new valves, someone might have changed the starter too. It has the starter cog and spring at the end of the starter. The cog spinning up and down the shaft.
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Hoping the bushes arrive today
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Battery is new and I tried Jumping it off my Diesal 406 so tons of power. V at terminals 12.5 volts. Heres a pic of the Commuter after being lightly rubbed, it was quite dirty before, also a pic of the bushes it appear the +ve feed bushes are the burnt ones. I know there is a bush missing in the pic it is there and was fitted, it was nice and shiny like the other negative bush.
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Cine should have been fine. Damn small keyboard. I have some new brushes ordered they look a little worn any way
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Checked continuity on the others all was good. I thought the commuter should be insulated in between the contacts. the springs are there the brushes looked smooth on two the other two looked pitted and burnt. I used a cine paper to clean up the contacts.
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I was in a village in Herefordshire and saw them all come past much to my daughters annoyance...
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Hi all, i was trying to start the herald from its slumber and think i might have cooked the starter. It went slower and slower and now nothing, i have shorted out the solenoid contacts and tested resistance from the Solenoid to the starter and from the starter casing to earth on the batter all are fine. I took the starter out opened it up, found some sign of pitting on the bushes and on the armature contacts. I ran an ohm meter across the armature contacts and basically there is current all across the armature contacts ie i can place the contact in one place and on each of the other contacts there is a flow of current . Have i don't what i think i have done and cooked it to death... yes I probably cranked it for too long... yes i know a stupid mistake! By the way which club was having a meet driving through Herefordshire last Sunday the 5th July 2015... there was some fantastic TRs and a couple of Herald too...