Matt306
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Everything posted by Matt306
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The striker plate (the bit on the B post) has some movement too when loosened.
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My herald has the same problem, i think but i cannt spot it that easily. I am having terrible trouble trying to fit the bonnet to the O/S. The near side fits a treat but I know the O/S has had a bump as the front chassis extension was bent. That has been pulled back out but the bonnet gap is large so on the adjuster i tighten it which allows me to latch the bonnet with a 1cm (maybe more) gap but i cannt raise the bonnet then to go over the overider....Any clues?
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whats wrong with the kenlowe? and are you looking to off load it?
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you seen this? http://www.northcotts.clara.net/tsscdevon/technical/alternator/alternator.html
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I was cranking mine the other day for ages ... grrrr then spotted a wire from the Dizzy to Coil off... reattached and woosh
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this was the guide i used http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/23486-solid-state-voltage-regulator/
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The voltage regulator for the dials is a small oblong box. Originally it would work by have 12v in and then a small metal strip would heat up and break the contact down to 0v as the contact cooled it would spring back and 12v would be input again. This happened very quickly and the result was around 10v output for the temp and fuel gauge. This was great in the 1960s but was hampered by the alternator as it wouldn't always supply 12v. This would lead to a gauge reading high or low. Google for 10v voltage regulator and put smiths in as well, i found a guide to make one, you can but a modern equivalent for around £10. Get a Haynes manual the wiring guide is in there with colours as well, its a doddle to follow. Electrical upgrades to consider; Fuse box (MUST!) Alternator (No Dim lights) , Electronic ignition (Better fuel Economy), Electric Fan (better fuel economy, engine doesnt waste HP) Relays for Lights (Even brighter lights, less current through switch gear)
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Think those go to the voltage regulator the little box screwed to the rear of the speedo. Give it a shake though first its probably bust, mine was used a modern solid state chip in the case to get a nice modern steady 10v outpu replacement.
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ferny wrote:They go under the bulkhead - the mounting points nearest the engine. edit - Did you get that kit from JP? If so, the rubber strip will be wrong. The original is webbing based and a lot stronger rather than the stretchy rubber band in the JP kit. I was lucky as I wasn't expecting it in the kit so ordered one separately from CC at the same time. The difference between the two was startling. Canley Classics sell the rubber strips now
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The haynes or the green manual have colour coding of the wires in the wiring diagrams
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Cyril The Herald (1968 13/60 Restoration)
Matt306 replied to Cyril_The_Herald's topic in Triumph Chat
Well done... -
I think i have some old glass think it might be a drivers door too. I am in Bewdley depends how much you need it!
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I think i have some old glass think it might be a drivers door too. I am in Bewdley depends how much you need it!
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I'll have to fish mine out then... wont the U shape fall out?
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are you saying the thick u shape washers fit under the cross sections tunnel where the leaf spring goes.
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As long as you have two sound un bent chassis rails you should be ok! Lie on the floor and look at the rails. The out riggers can be replaced, the main rails will need repair.
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I am a total amateur, Herald is my first car resto. Parts are generally plentiful. The car is like a meccanno kit. This forum IMHO is probably the most helpful and friendliest. Cost depends on how bad the starting product is and how much you can do yourself. I am using mine as a tool to learn new skills, i dont ever intend getting shot of it so I will live with any rough bits. As you are on Cyprus you may find the body work is better than our rotten ones!
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Thanks for your reply Bill I suppose its a case of just accept it... perhaps in time it will settle down and improve.
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Thanks for your reply Bill I suppose its a case of just accept it... perhaps in time it will settle down and improve.
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I still have the problem of a huge amount of spacers on the back outrigger to close the gap. Any thoughts or is it a case of just live with it? I have measured there is 3cm of spacer on the top of the outrigger under the body.
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I still have the problem of a huge amount of spacers on the back outrigger to close the gap. Any thoughts or is it a case of just live with it? I have measured there is 3cm of spacer on the top of the outrigger under the body.
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Thanks Bill. Did you have any thoughts on the post on the previous page i did earlier
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Thanks Bill. Did you have any thoughts on the post on the previous page i did earlier
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Ok door lifted up abit the check strap look dead centre of the gap now. I have this gap on the rear/front sections on the drivers side. I put rubbers under this part here I take it I shouldnt have? (It's taken on the old tub which i decided was too rotten) Finally anyone know anything which has some more strength than these which are meant to secure the tub and bulkhead to the outrigger
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Ok door lifted up abit the check strap look dead centre of the gap now. I have this gap on the rear/front sections on the drivers side. I put rubbers under this part here I take it I shouldnt have? (It's taken on the old tub which i decided was too rotten) Finally anyone know anything which has some more strength than these which are meant to secure the tub and bulkhead to the outrigger