Rubce
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Everything posted by Rubce
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7288 wrote:i had a thread called here we go many moons ago, i think it lasted 3 years, which was about 2 1/2 years longer than i'd planned :) Hmmmm, cat afford for it to be off the road that long as it's one of our daily drivers. I am aiming to have it road legal with an MOT for late May as that is when it's my wife's 40th birthday. It's her car and I want to present her with it on her birthday. Time will tell if I achieve that date. A very stiff hill to be climbed between now and then! Thanks for looking Bruce
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184 wrote:Be better on a belt sander :-/ Why?
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Hi Chaps Thanks for all the responses. This Forum is great! Is there any reason why I couldn't simply have the manifold flashed over on a grinder? Regards Bruce
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Hi All Have any of you got experience of repairing the mating faces of a cast iron exhaust manifold where it matches up to the head? The manifold off our GT6 is worn in the areas adjacent to the centre four ports. Is welding and then re-machining an option? I briefly considered replacing it with a tubular manifold until I saw the prices Rimmers are asking! Regards Bruce
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Thrust bearings renewed, engine block cleaned and painted, sump cleaned and painted.
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Diff refitted to the chassis today.
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The pipe at the other end is not looking to healthy either. Can anyone tell me if this is a push in or press in fit? Regards Bruce
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I now have to work out how to remove the remains from the inlet manifold. Can anyone advise me of the thread size so I can run a tap down the hole?
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Given how much crap was inside, it was amazing the heater was still functioning!
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The pipe adaptor and banjo bolt situated underneath the heater valve in the end of the inlet manifold were looking very corroded. The banjo disintegrated when I came to remove it today :-/
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The crank shaft end float was excessive and when the thrust washers were removed and measured they were oversize ones which had become worn. After doing the calcs, fitting a new pair of 5 thou oversize will bring the crank end float back into the permitted range.
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There was evidence that the exhaust manifold gasket was starting to blow on the middle four cylinders.
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The sump had an inch of sludge in it. YUK! This is despite me changing the oil every 3,000 miles. I have no idea when the sump was last off the engine. Looking on the bright side the next lot new oil I put in should stay cleaner for a lot longer.
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Hi All Started work at the weekend on cleaning up the engine. The clutch is all oily so I am going to replace the rear crank oil seal and the gearbox front oil seal.
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Comparison shot of the old rubber mounts and the new polybush type.
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Hi All I continued work on the diff this afternoon with a new pinion oil seal fitted and new polybush rear mounts. Hopefully the new input and output oil seals I have fitted will eliminate/reduce the oil loss. I have ensured the split pin hole is clear of muck. All that is left to do is apply some rust killer and paint, mount onto the chassis and then fill with oil. Regards Bruce
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Hi Nick You are a star providing such a detailed response :). The engine and gearbox are currently seperated and out of the car so access is not an issue. Regards Bruce
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Hi All Can any of you give me some advice on how to replace the front and rear oil seal on our gearbox. It's a 4 speed with a D type overdrive fitted. Thanks in anticipation. Bruce
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Evening All Can anyone give me some guidance on how to go about replacing the front and rear oil seals on the gearbox. It is a 4 speed with D type overdrive fitted. Thanks Bruce
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Fascinating stuff. Keep up the good work Regards Bruce
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Hi All Work progressing with the running gear. This morning I fitted polybushes to the wishbones, assembled the springs to the dampers and fitted new seals and bearings to the diff output shafts. Regards Bruce
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JensH wrote:Take a look at the mounting points for the lower wishbone, could have done some damage on your frame. Hi Jen I have had a look and no further damage is evident. Thanks Bruce
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Hi All After cleaning up the lower wishbones I noticed that the nearside one has suffered some damage :(. It appears to have been dragging on the ground at some point in its past life ??) This is not something which has occurred during the four years we have owned the car. Bruce
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Hi Its a late GT6 so swing link setup. The ends have gone red rusty and so I want to paint and then grease as appropriate. Cheers Bruce
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Evening All I started taking the rear spring apart this evening to allow me to paint it. I got the top three plates off okay. How do you separate the bottom two plates? The only I could see to do it is to bend the two buckles up on one side. Regards Bruce