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Rubce

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Everything posted by Rubce

  1. Hi all The car passed its MOT this afternoon ;D Chuffed Bruce 8)
  2. Just realised that I never posted this photo of the drivers door hinges. The door kept dropping as all six of the thread holes in the two captive plates were knackered. I had forgotten about this whilst the car was a bare shell which of course would have been the perfect time to fit some new plates! Anyway, when I came to hang the painted door onto the painted shell, I remembered about the problem with the hinges. DOH! What was to be done? Well the original holes were 5/16" so I tapped them all out to M10 and fitted new setscrews. I cut a small hole in the A post so I could get access to fit a nut onto the leading setscrew of the top plate. I also fitted a nut onto the leading setscrew of the bottom plate. The four holes nearest the door had to have caphead setscrews as there was insufficient clearance for the normal hex head type. Not original but I am not bothered as I am the only person who will see them. Situation recovered! Phew Bruce
  3. The painter called round today to remove a few bits of dirt and a run from the paintwork, followed by wet sanding and mopping the entire car. It gleams now 8) I just need to sort out the tracking now. The adjuster nut on the nearside is seized at the moment. Regards Bruce  
  4. Hi Enjoy the adventure you are about to embark on. Keep us informed of your progress. Regards Bruce
  5. Hi Sam I have fitted all new pipes, hoses, master cylinder and front calipers. Bruce 8-/
  6. 5926 wrote:Bruce, While I have not done this myself I have read a number of threads that confirm it works most of the time, that is to pump the brake pedal until firm then wedge it with a suitable piece of wood in the depressed state and leave overnight, it would appear to be something to do with new fluid and master cylinders drawing fluid back. worth a try! Hi Thanks for replying. The pedal won't go hard so I am unsure how I could attempt this idea. Regards Bruce
  7. junkuser wrote:If the hiss is only for a short time when the pedal is depressed, then it could just be air being drawn out of the Servo, so normal. Usually not heard over the background noise level whilst driving. Hi Thanks for the reply. The windscreen has yet to be fitted hence the ability to hear the servo. Regards Bruce
  8. Hi. I am puzzled and frustrated in equal measure >:( This evening I had another go at getting the brakes to work effectively. With the help of an assistant the brakes were rebleed and yes lots of air came out. Eventually we came to the position where no more bubbles were appearing at any of the four wheels. This was after using nearly two litres of brake fluid. Despite this the brake pedal is still soft. Repeated pumping does not make it go harder. With the engine running the pedal does harden slightly but not greatly. With the engine running a hissing noise can be heard coming from the servo when the pedal is pressed. If I switch off the engine and pump the pedal I can hear hissing from the servo. This lasts for a few pedal pumps and then stops. There are no visible brake fluid leaks anywhere. Does the hissing mean the servo is knackered? Any suggestions as to why the pedal is soft and not hardening up? Help! Thanks Bruce
  9. 7952 wrote:Impressive work Bruce, Where how you found the time in space of a year to do this project? I'm lucky to spend a full day in two weeks, if I get an hour. Hi. Several late nights per week starting at 8.30pm ish after putting our son to bed and working throught to midnight. Plus half a day per weekend when possible. Balancing working on the car, with my real job and raising a young family is a challenge! Regards Bruce
  10. Benny I purchased them from Park Lane Classics. Google them and you will find their website. Cheers Bruce
  11. Out and about around the farmyard today 8). Engine was up to full temperature and everything seemed water tight. There was a fuel leak from adjacent to the front carb but I traced that to the main fuel hose which wasn't full home on the metal pip protruding from the carb. After pushing it a further 5mm all was sorted! Bruce
  12. Sunroof in place. Prior to fitting the frame to the car I welded the latch block as it was worn and the hook was slipping off.
  13. Hi All A few recent photos as promised. Door curtain in place
  14. Hi All MOT now booked for a fortnights time. GULP! Still jobs to do between now and then to keep me busy. Will post some photos over the weekend as door cards, carpets etc now all fitted. Regards Bruce
  15. Hi All I am considering purchasing a spare engine for our GT6 as a project to work on next year. Seeing as our cars are getting rarer etc I am would like to obtain a spare engine now whilst they are stil available. I am thinking of buying a 2.5litre. Are there any modifications required to enable a 2.5 to fit into a mark 3 GT6. Have any of you guys done it? Regards Bruce
  16. Hi All The drivers door and bonnet went on today and she now looks like a car again! Regards Bruce
  17. Hi Shaun Thanks for your suggestions. The old master cylinder was not using brake fluid but when I came to refit it I noticed that the front seal was weeping so I decided to replace the cylinder. I will repair he old at some point and retain as a spare. The rear brakes are set up correctly as I simply removed the rear hubs and refitted during the resto as I had rebuilt them with new bearings and shafts early last year. The front calipers and pads are self adjusting aren't they. I will try the vacuum pipe check tomorrow evening plus check the new master cylinder for signs of leaks. Regards Bruce
  18. Hi Shaun. The brake pedal has little or no resistance. The master cylinder and front calipers, pipes and hoses are all new. The rear cylinders are only 18months old. When I filled the system with fresh dot4 I believe I got all (most) of the air out. The only way I can get the pedal to go hard is by repeatedly pumping it with the engine running. Regards Bruce
  19. 4058 wrote: The servo, check the vacuum hose is connected and not perished! It may be that? Hi The hose is connected and in good condition. Any other suggestions on what to check for? Thanks Bruce
  20. Hi All R I started up the resto today and went for a drive in it for the first time. The brake servo is not functioning. Rimmers and Paddocks only seem to list new Lockhead servos. At the moment I am unsure whether our car has a Lockhead or an original Girling type fitted. Can both types be repaired? Can't seem them listed on the TD Fitchetts site. Canleys list a SP2231     SERVICE KIT POWERSTOP SERVO MK11A. Anybody got experience of that kit? I am unsure whether it is for a Lockhead or a Girling. Thanks Bruce
  21. Hi All After filling the brake system with fluid I went for a short drive around the farmyard this afternoon. It was great to be driving it again after a a gap of 357 days! The front carb started to flood but a few lusty blows with a rubber mallet cured that problem. The other problem is that the brake servo is not functioning ??). This is an unexpected blow as a replacement is in the region of £140 and I will have to re-bleed the brakes :'(. So three steps forward, one back. Onwards and upwards Bruce
  22. Hi All YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA This evening I connected up the battery, primed the engine and turned the key and it started. I heard that lovely sound of a 6 pot for the first time in 354 days. I started her again a few minutes later and she fired on the first turn of the key. It was also the first occasion that current was flowing around my home made wiring harness. There is a small water leak from one hose and an oil leak from where the spin on filter adaptor meets the block but nothing serious. Another milestone passed. Now to put some brake fluid in and perhaps go for a drive around the farmyard this weekend. Bruce
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