Rubce
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Everything posted by Rubce
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We rolled the bodytub onto its side to allow good access to the underside.
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The chassis appears to be in very good condition apart from the front outriggers which are deformed on their lower edges.
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Bodytub and chassis separated for what I believe is the first time since the car was assembled in 1973. I suspect this because we struggled to find the 11th and 12th securing bolts. Eventually they were unearthed amongst the original factory fitted sound deadening pads on the rear deck. Our Scottish Terrier was supervising activities!
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This morning work turned to the task of removing the bodytub. Goliath earned its keep again.
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Hi All The offside sill was finished off yesterday.
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Well after another afternoon's work on the car, the mess continues! Whilst digging out the corrosion around the front of the rear offside wheelarch, I noticed a split in the underseal adjacent to the radius link bracket. I poked it with a screwdriver and a hole appeared. :'( I removed the radius link and the associated bracket and and this is what I discovered :'( To add insult to injury one of my grinders went up in smoke :( On a positive note, I have started to rebuild the inner sill at the backend. After today's discovery my plan is to fit the new offside sill and then remove the body from the chassis, tip it on its end and clean off all the underside so I can conduct a clear assessment of what further repairs like this recent discovery are required. I will then pop it back on the chassis to confirm alignment before removing it again for painting and then the resto of the chassis itself. Bruce
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rotoflex wrote:These pictures give me the heebie-jeebies. Yeah :-/ I had been in two minds on whether to take the car back to bare metal prior to its respray. Considering what I have discovered so far I think all the old paint and filler will be coming off so that I am sure no more nasties are lurking underneath ready to pounce on the new paintwork ??) When I did that with my Stag it looked like a Delorean until it was primered. The driveway was white with filler and paint dust as it was coming off in clouds as the grinder did its business. Cheers Bruce
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2396 wrote: Keep going Bruce, you're doing a great job! Hope you didn't leave any of those tin worms on my drive!!! ;D Hi Kevin If you see any wriggling around, send them in the direction of the nearest MG ;D or stamp on them ;) Feel free to pop round to have a look if you want to. Cheers Bruce
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Hi Has anybody got any experience of using one of these repair panels on their GT6 bonnet? http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-818626 As shown in the photo I have posted previously on this thread the area around the buffer mount has corroded. I am thinking I can cut off the existing mount, let in a new section into the bonnet top and then fit this repair panel on, thereby giving me a new mount and the edge folding. Cheers Bruce
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At this stage I don't believe I need to replace the entire crossmember. I have a concern that if I was to do that I will be causing other problems due to it being such an intrusive process. It is still firmly attached to the offside inner sill on two sides and the other two sides can be reconstructed. Further repair patches in the inner wing and healboard will be required plus the B post patch. Further work is required to remove the remaining rusty metal but slowly slowly wins the race. Regards Bruce
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The inside of the crossmember is in good condition. Its simply the first inch that has an issue with heavy corrosion.
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This lot needs digging out and patching. This is the offside corner of the healboard and directly above the area I posted a photo of yesterday.
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Ooops! Another patch required.
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Hmm, I spent a couple of hours attacking that area to see how bad it really is and what access would be like. I spotted that there had been a previous patch repair in the inner wing. At times I felt like was peeling an onion!
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Hi All I think I will have a go at repairing the existing metal one first as I don't believe I have anything to loose. I think I will look at cutting off the buffer mount, patching the bonnet behind it and then fit a new mount. If I fail, the worst that can happen is that I have to purchase another second hand metal one. Regards Bruce
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Looking good. Are you using a bead blaster for the components or a wire wheel? Regards Bruce
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Hi Thanks for all your responses to-date. The specific areas of concern on the existing bonnet are as follows:- a) various holes in the NS wing. To replace the entire wing or patch? b) the area at the NS rear edge near where the bonnet buffer is located (see photo below). Awkward to access the rear of this area but to the buffer mount, plus has a folded edge. c) rust in the seams where both wings meet the main bonnet. How the heck do I eliminate it? I don't want it reappearing along the seam shortly after I have resprayed the car! Regards Bruce
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Which then lead to this :'(I am unsure how to go about fixing this! Any suggestions? Will plating over the end and then flooding the box section with Waxoyl or equivalent to drown the rust, do the trick? :-/ Cheers Bruce
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Hi All The OS sill was cut out today and the seams prepped for fitment of the new sill. However, whilst removing the rotten section of the rear wing adjacent to the B post I unearthed this. :(
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Hi All Do any of you have experience of these fibreglass bonnet assemblies sold by Moss? http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=18550 At £256 I am thinking it might be worthwhile purchasing one instead of spending time repairing our existing metal one. A new metal one is way beyond my budget! How well does paint adhere to fibreglass? Regards Bruce
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Evening All The new nearside sill and front section repair patch for the rear wing are now in place. :) Work starts tomorrow on cutting out the other sill Regards Bruce
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The drivers side door on ours has two knackered threads out of the 6 and it gradually sags over a period time and then requries resetting. I intend to address this issue during the resto. Regards Bruce
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The drivers side door on ours has two knackered threads out of the 6 and it gradually sags over a period time and then requries resetting. I intend to address this issue during the resto. Regards Bruce
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Hi All Thanks for the link Jens. That wooden jig makes interesting viewing. The thing that strikes me about that wooden one is how much the framework obstructs access to the body. I am planning on making mine our of metal box section so it will be lighter and smaller and give clearer access for paint preparation. I will keep you informed of progress. Regards Bruce
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Hi All Thanks for the link Jens. That wooden jig makes interesting viewing. The thing that strikes me about that wooden one is how much the framework obstructs access to the body. I am planning on making mine our of metal box section so it will be lighter and smaller and give clearer access for paint preparation. I will keep you informed of progress. Regards Bruce