Howard81
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Everything posted by Howard81
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Perfect, thank you!
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Can anyone please tell me the correct size and length bolts that are used to attach the headlight cowls? I have misplaced mine thank you
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Fantastic, you have PM! 😀
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Yes it was the MKIV that had the springy needles, earlier had fixed. I know the piston and carb top should be sourced together, but thankfully I have about 5 spare carb tops to mix and match. I figure as long as I have a pair that rise and fall at the same rate all should be good
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This is driving me crazy, if anyone can help I'd really appreciate it! Two years ago I fully rebuilt set of HS2 carbs for my 1300 MKIV but I've been unable to fit them to the car as I'm missing one of the pistons. It's the biased type piston with the spring loaded needle that sits in a coller - AUC1432 but the fixed and biased jet types have the same part number. The needles are AAN (I have these). I've tried all the various parts suppliers but all they seem to have are the pistons that take the fixed jets. Does anyone have one of these (or a complete carb) in their spares pile they'd like to sell?
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Easiest way I do it is: Undo hood at front header rail Undo all poppers underneath Undo poppers either side Standing at the side of the car, one hand on the front header, other on the rear edge above the rear view window Fold hood frame while pulling the hood off and back over the rear deck Tuck away the front latch handles and push the header rail down Fold the hood over itself so that it's over the seats Fold in the side bits taking care not to fold the window Tuck behind seats Takes about 15 seconds once you learn the knack of it!
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These are from my MKIV owners manual but the 1500 is the same!
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http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Spittop.html
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I had a head gasket blow recently on my MKIV. Same cheapo silver type and it went after 200-300 miles! Replaced it with a Payen and all seems well...
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Well it blew during a blast up the M3, I didn't experience any noticable overheating and the temperature gauge didn't rise above half way. The car did start running rough in a 45-minute traffic jam in the New Forest but sorted itself out again once the traffic got moving again. The engine is a bog-standard 1300 with 1300 exhaust, although I am running the HS4 carbs off a 1500.
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I'm just wondering if the head gasket failure could be down to me using a cheap head gasket of unknown age.. It came in an old Unipart gasket set. It's probably done 500 miles since replaced. I have a new Payen gasket to go back on.
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Here's the photos of the block:
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There is no engine number as the engine was a rebuilt replacement (Gold Seal maybe?) from years ago. Here's the block:
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Just had the head gasket blow on my 1970 MKIV so may as well get the head skimmed, rebuilt and converted to unleaded while it's off! Any recommendations? I'm in London.
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I had similar problems with the brake master - tried rebuilding the original and the expensive quality replacement and they both leaked soon after. I then fitted a cheapo one and 5 years on it's still fine!
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The Heritage certificate for my 1970 MKIV shows the commission, body and engine numbers. The chassis number was not listed.
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The friction material is the same, but the new clutch has a bigger centre part. One clutch is AP while the other is Borg & Beck, so I guess the pressure plates need to match the clutch.. I never realised that, so I've ordered a new 3-peice Borg & Beck clutch kit.. Fingers crossed!
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I have a clutch issue with my Spitfire. It's currebtly having an engine swap with the knackered 1500 being swapped for a new 1300. As the 1300 is being mated up to a single-rail gearbox, I purchased a Dolomite 1300 clutch on eBay so it'll fit the 1300 engine and 1500 gearbox splines. However, this new clutch centre is a bit bigger and thicker and isn't fitting the existing 1300 pressure plate on the engine even though they are both 6.5" in total. However, one is Borg & Beck and one is AP, so are there a difference between pressure plates?
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It was this chap: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=321523285080
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I'm preparing the replacement 1300 engine to go in my MK IV Spit and have just rebuilt a set of twin HS2 carbs. These were bought from eBay as "worked when removed" but were in appalling condition with all sorts of miss-matched parts - including a missing piston and needle! So I need a little help to make sure they're all correct.. 1. How can I identify the correct damper springs? They were both missing but I've been given a matching pair. 2. The piston dampers are AUC 8114, are these correct? 3. Needles are AAN Also if anyone has a spare piston it's the only part I've yet to find :)
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Nick_Jones wrote:1500HL Dolomite uses the same gearbox in OD form. Only the gear lever is different. Not that there are that many about these days..... Nick About 100 1500HL's currently on the road and the same on SORN.. not all of those O/D!!
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I used Vinylcote on mine.. You have to touch the hard wearing areas up every now and then but the results are great! It looks a bit patchy at first, but a wipe over with some vinyl cleaner and they look like new :)
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I've sorted it now! I was right, the black hooked up to the other side of the blower motor and the short green wire goes to ignition. I've got it all plumbed in but haven't run the car yet as also need to replace the water valve. Are there any tips on getting it running without causing an airlock?
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The door seals on my Spit were Rover 100 boot seals from the local scrappy! Identical to the usual aftermarket ones and £1 each ;D
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The door seals on my Spit were Rover 100 boot seals from the local scrappy! Identical to the usual aftermarket ones and £1 each ;D