Nilfisken
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Everything posted by Nilfisken
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Stoneleigh is on the optimistic side unfortunately. I hope to have the car back on all four sometime in late April :( Right now I'm gonna have a few weeks of break from the work since the guy who helps me welding is in need of space and will use the garage for a couple of weeks. I will just continue with some small refurbishment projects of various parts on the car while he finishes up. Then it's back inside to do the underside of the body tub and get it all back on wheels again. Also looks like I will go for some field work in Nigeria again in March and if so it will be delayed a bit further. Regardless it is great fun and for some reason a Spitfire feels so unintimidating to dismantle compared to the cars I worked on before, never ever planned on going as serious as it turned out to be for this one. Cheers!
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Maybe ask Anglia Radiators in Cambridge since you live locally anyway? They cleaned out a tank for me and I think they have full service facilities for both tanks and radiators. So far they have done great work for a fair price for me. Cheers!
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So a bit of progress today, took the pinion nut off and verified that it is a shim-preload diff. I misunderstood the diagrams and thought you wouldn't be able to see that without major surgery. Feels good to know for sure I can tighten it down properly without worries. Got the front nose painted up and then a new oil seal pressed in. Also started painting the front flange and the mounting plate so all should be ready to go back tomorrow evening. Unfortunately I might not have any shakeproof washers of the right size (7/16") around so might have to wait to get the mounting plate and everything else back on, but nearly there now!!! Cheers!
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Brilliant thanks! Diff should probably be ready soon :)
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Three new questions :) 1) Should the output shafts be fitted without a paper gasket on the flat flange? Some old workshop manuals show a paper gasket but cant find one in the Haynes or the official manual. 2) Do I need to bother with pre-oiling modern type rubber-lip-with-built-in-spring type seals? 3) Is Wellseal (non hardening compound) OK to use for the big round paper gasket? Cheers!
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Can take one tomorrow if you want to see it in its natural habitat or you can have a look at this link: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-ap500b-1-2-ton-arbor-press Cheers!
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Took a break from all the welding work today and replaced the side shaft oil seals and bearings using my latest workshop addition. An impulse purchase at Machine Mart that is already turning out to do a very good job with bearings and bushings :) Cheers!
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Thanks guys, I will get back to the diff a bit later, started to do the body tub welding work so diff is just cleaned up, WD-40ed and placed in some plastic wrapping for now :)
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OK, so that amount of torque should hopefully not compress any possible collapsable spacers any further meaning it can be used regardless of the type of pre-load mechanism?
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Hi, I am currently changing all of the oil seals on my 3.63 diff (leaking like crazy). I have taken the side axles out and pressed of the bearings and seals (horrible job, left one seal plate bent so I had to use a spare from a scrapped diff...) and cleaned up the rear casing for some paint. The front is gonna get a new pinion seal and some paint as well. I have no plans to touch the gear set since the diff has ran pretty well with no whining and no gear teeth are broken. Now the questions! 1) Being an FR number diff and having a 3.63 gear set I expected to find a nyloc nut for the pinion, turns out it is a castellated nut with a pin. Since I have no plans to venture further inside than to pry out the pinion oil seal I guess I cant know wether it has a collapsible spacer or shims? Can I still just apply the rule to return to nut to its EXACT position previous to changing the oil seal? 2) Are the oil seals the same regardless of pinion nut/shim/spacer type? 3) When removing the pinion nut and flange will things still be kept tightly in place of the front part of the diff. Asking since I want to take the front mounting plate off and de-rust/paint it separately so the front case and the gear set might have to be moved around in the shop a few times before I get the pinion nut back on. 4) Trying to find the best way to clean out old gunk from the inside. Most internet searches suggest to spray it down (including the gear set) with lots of aerosol brake cleaner. Other methods suggested? How do I best avoid flash rust on the exposed surfaces, seen WD-40 being used in another thread, any other suggestions? Cheers!
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Hi Paul, even though I'm a bit scared of engine work I agree with you, it makes sense to deal with it when the sump is of anyway. Am I right that I only have to take the rear cap of and that the crank can stay in the block during the operation? I found this webpage (for a TR6 but similar I guess), does it look accurate enough? http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ThrustWashers.htm Cheers!
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Hi Paul, even though I'm a bit scared of engine work I agree with you, it makes sense to deal with it when the sump is of anyway. Am I right that I only have to take the rear cap of and that the crank can stay in the block during the operation? I found this webpage (for a TR6 but similar I guess), does it look accurate enough? http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ThrustWashers.htm Cheers!
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Hi, yesterday I took the engine (1500) out of the car to prepare for the final part of the full chassis restoration (and body tub welding as it turned out as well...). While it is out have decided to give it some fresh paint and change a few leaking seals. Engine runs great so I am tempted to not open it up more than absolutely necessary to be sure that at least one thing of the car is still working this spring ;) Today I did a check on the end float since changing thrust washers would be best to do when it is out of the car anyway. I got the float to 0.010". Mr. Haynes says 0.006 to 0.014" but the factory workshop manual says 0.004-0.008". Interestingly enough Haynes use the latter value for the earlier smaller displacement engines. Which one should I trust? I did check the float using a dial gauge against the crankshaft pulley (base attached to the timing cover). First I pushed the crankshaft back all the way from the front and zeroed the gauge. Then from behind the engine I used a flat prying bar against the end of the crankshaft levered against the engine stand to give it a slow but determined push forward. There is an audible click when it stops in its forward motion but repeated measurements always says 0.010". Is this method accurate enough the measure the condition of the thrust washers? One more thing. The oil leaks I plan to fix is the sump (easy I guess?) and then maybe the timing chain cover. Is the last one fairly simple to do for someone that never really opened up an engine. Is it also a good idea to take the head off for a general clean up/valve re-lapping or can that be left if the engine works fine in general? Cheers, Oskar
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Hi, yesterday I took the engine (1500) out of the car to prepare for the final part of the full chassis restoration (and body tub welding as it turned out as well...). While it is out have decided to give it some fresh paint and change a few leaking seals. Engine runs great so I am tempted to not open it up more than absolutely necessary to be sure that at least one thing of the car is still working this spring ;) Today I did a check on the end float since changing thrust washers would be best to do when it is out of the car anyway. I got the float to 0.010". Mr. Haynes says 0.006 to 0.014" but the factory workshop manual says 0.004-0.008". Interestingly enough Haynes use the latter value for the earlier smaller displacement engines. Which one should I trust? I did check the float using a dial gauge against the crankshaft pulley (base attached to the timing cover). First I pushed the crankshaft back all the way from the front and zeroed the gauge. Then from behind the engine I used a flat prying bar against the end of the crankshaft levered against the engine stand to give it a slow but determined push forward. There is an audible click when it stops in its forward motion but repeated measurements always says 0.010". Is this method accurate enough the measure the condition of the thrust washers? One more thing. The oil leaks I plan to fix is the sump (easy I guess?) and then maybe the timing chain cover. Is the last one fairly simple to do for someone that never really opened up an engine. Is it also a good idea to take the head off for a general clean up/valve re-lapping or can that be left if the engine works fine in general? Cheers, Oskar
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A few pictures to show the location of the numbers Shouldn't it normally be some casting numbers here?? Cheers!
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Hi, I wonder if anyone here can help me decode some numbers on my engine. Since I'm in the preparations of a frame off restoration today was the day to remove as much auxiliaries from the engine as possible before lifting it out. First the gearbox went out (supporting the back of the engine on a iron bar resting on the frame) and then after taking of the flywheel and backplate I found an odd little aluminum plate bolted down with lots of numbers. It was placed at the top of the rear of the engine just behind the backplate. The aluminium plate reads: RTC 2459R 00608T ADH 124 The block seemed to have been decked so I cant see all numbers on the top (just where the head goes). I think it says F?3534745 (some numbers were almost impossible to read since they have been partially shaved off. All I know is that they most definitely not match the number in my registration document... The side of the block (dip stick side) has castings in the block reading: BIL 567553 STANPART 2 23B7 Taking off the rocker cover I couldn't find a single number except the number 5 cast in between valve 4 and 5. I thought the typical Spitfire head would have casted numbers clearly visible when taking of the cover or do the rockers need to go away before anything can be found? Any input welcome! :) Cheers, Oskar
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My tank has a flexible plastic type of fuel line coming up through the boot on the left side (connected to the fuel pipe under the body tub somewhere) and attaches to the tank with a short rubber hose to the top fed outlet of the tank (this is where I put my first filter). The breather is supposed to have a short vent cap which in mine was just a rubber hose with a blanking on top. I have attached a picture I found from when I took the tank out but cant vouch for its originality... The pipe going across the whole picture in the front is the flexible pipe that was attached to the rubber hose oulet, it is very 'springy' and looses its position when disconnected but it ran along the left side and top of the tank all the way to the hole in the boot floor Cheers!
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Unfortunately I just took mine out... Regarding the filter I would put one immediately after the tank before it connects to the fuel pipe (especially if you have new fuel pipes). I also like to have an additional one after the pump so you can see if there is fuel coming to the carbs or not when trouble shooting a engine that doesn't run as you like :) Cheers
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I dont remember the exact part number but Canley Classics sell them, Im not sure they show up in the normal catalouge so mail or call and you should easily get them. Good luck! BTW, if you do a search for 'buckeye triumph brakes' google should get you a page showing caliper rebuild of a TR with lots of pics. Not exactlly the same calipers but almost and very informative!
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When i couldnt get a pair of pistons out in a pair of old calipers due to lack of compressed air they finally came out when i hit them at the edges with a flat chisel aimed as much outwards as possible taking turn to hit it from all sides in an alternating fashion. It takes time but in the end they give up. Placing the caliper body in a vise helps a lot. Cheers
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Bending was the way I did it. Watch for the orientation of the leaves. Supposedly some springs have a lower leaf that is supposed to be turned one way only. I made markings, grinded them away by mistake and in the end couldn't see any difference anyway so hopefully it will still work this coming spring :) Cheers! Picture from my spring resto:
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Can I borrow the thread quickly and check one thing? When replacing the front seal on a diff with collapsible spacer is the Nyloc to be reused or replaced with a new one turned the same amount of turns as the old one? Cheers!
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Thanks, I guess that if the flywheel is coming of I might as well take the backplate off anyway and get a number of holes in the block itself to use? Since this is my first Triumph I don't really have a surplus of backplates in my garage yet... ;) Cheers!
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Brilliant, thanks! Looking at the clearance I guess flywheel will have to go after all.
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Raising this thread a bit again. I purchased a stand (should arrive in a few days) and trying to find images of Spitfire engines mounted but without success. If mounting it in the backplate holes where the bellhousing normally attaches can the flywheel and/or clutch then remain on the engine? I really don't plan any more work than some painting and modifying the oil sump so the less things that has to come off the engine the better (at least for this time...). Any images of engines mounted using the backplate would be very appreciated! I assume its best to use the bolts closest to the block to minimise the stress on the plate? Cheers!