Nilfisken
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Everything posted by Nilfisken
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Unfortunately not, they have the engine mountings built into the front plate I think :(
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Hi, I'm about to invest in an engine stand for the garage. What bolts are required to fit a Spitfire engine to the basic type of stands with adjustable brackets sold on ebay and all the major parts suppliers? If anyone know the appropriate dimensions I could get the bolts before I get the stand and have everything ready :) I'm buying something like this ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380517714610?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 ) Also what bolt holes on the rear of the engine is the best to use, I have seen some discussions about the backplate being at risk of being bent from the weight of the engine if these holes are used? I dont plan any major work on the engine at the moment, want the stand for a general cleanup (degrease and paint) and also need to take the sump off to fit a new gasket and arrange for something welded inside the pan to stop the oil pressure loss on heavy braking cornering. Later this summer I hope to start building a brand new engine for the car and then the stand will of course be used again but for now mostly cosmetic. Cheers
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Hi, re-using an old thread to double check something :) Can the doors easily be opened and closed while this tool is in position? I'm planning to have my body tub on saw horses for quite some time this winter while working on the chassis and want to have something available to minimise sag when working inside the tub for longer periods of time with the door opened or removed. I guess one of these placed in the door gap should make it safer to work on the tub if only one door is opened at a time? Cheers, Oskar
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Hi, re-using an old thread to double check something :) Can the doors easily be opened and closed while this tool is in position? I'm planning to have my body tub on saw horses for quite some time this winter while working on the chassis and want to have something available to minimise sag when working inside the tub for longer periods of time with the door opened or removed. I guess one of these placed in the door gap should make it safer to work on the tub if only one door is opened at a time? Cheers, Oskar
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You will find the thermostat on the engine page at Canley's webpage, just looked for one a few days ago :)
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You will find the thermostat on the engine page at Canley's webpage, just looked for one a few days ago :)
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Looking pretty awesome!
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Why not just check that the u-joints are nice and tight, install shaft and test-drive. If you have lots of vibrations it is a dead easy thing to remove from the car and have checked, if no vibrations then just be happy and spend the money on fuel :)
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My guess is that the judder comes from the clutch, I had judders in first and reverse and they did not disappear when changing a seriously worn u-joint in the propshaft, new clutch however made them disappear completely. The main 'cue' I got from a worn u-joint was a noticeable clonk when taking up drive if not being easy on the clutch (the sound was transmitted through the prop though, I always thought it came from the box/clutch until it disappeared when changing the rear u-join)). Mine was so worn however that it was easy to get some play in the joint by grabbing the shaft and the rear flange and twisting them while lying under the car. My U-joint... Cheers
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Hi, I got the bastards off! Thanks for your help :) They all came fairly easy after first having given them a few medium hard taps with a hammer and a drift in the middle of the bolt. After that they moved using a long 3/16" allen key with a screwdriver handle. Clutch actually looks quite decent with plenty of meat left on it but I'm gonna replace it anyway. Not sure if they come in different designs but without looking like anything is broken or missing the old clutch has a few mm of play in all directions in the central ring carrying the splines and the same movement is translated to the four coil springs but nothing else. On the new clutch the whole unit looks fine and nothing has any play. I think I will keep the old clutch as an emergency repair unit and put the new one in for now. Is there any way of testing the condition of the release bearing or better to just change it regardless? A new one is included in the clutch kit but if the old ones are OK might save it for later. I have two release arms complete with bearings to check, the one that was in the car and the one that came with the OD box I'm putting in. Cheers!
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Hi, I will give the bolts another go later this week. Need a new propshaft, just ordered one from Canley, I should buy shares soon given the amount of my salary those guys get ;) so wont have the car back for quite some time :( Also need to find a good way of wedging the engine before applying more torque on the bolts. Is the front pulley nut and a long handle the best way to go? The clutch definately have to come out since the middle part having the splines can be wiggled around but not turned around, I believe the rivets holding the middle part of the frcition plate are starting to break up! Exhaust is still not on the car Andy, I will need to fabricate some extension to merge it with the GT6 system I plan to use. I planned to do all of this (including the gearbox) this autumn but a failed gearbox made me have to change my plans a bit... How's the SpitSix plans coming along? Cheers!
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Hi, in the process of switching gearboxes on the Spitfire and decided to change the clutch at the same time for peace of mind. The pressure plate is attached to the flywheel using allen head bolts and they appear to all be stuck solid! Any advice on how to loosen them up, the engine is in the car so not sure if applying heat is a good idea. Also would it be bad for the engine to hit the bolt heads with a hammer to hopefully shock them free or could that damage the crankshaft? Cheers!
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I have exactly the same after rebuilding my clutch master with a seal kit and installed a brand new slave. Has worked great for almost a year now so I decided to stop worrying about it :) I usually do replace most of the liquid in the master reservoir itself a few times per year using a small plastic pipette the get out all but the last before refilling and the amount of blackening seems to be less for every moth. Cheers
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If I understood the design correctly when I put my cooler in there is a small amount of oil being fed into the cooler even when the thermostat is closed. I also noticed that my engine stays cooler than usual in cold weather which would be the case if a small amount is always going through. When I fitted my cooler I attached one hose to the plate (already mounted to the engine, filled the cooler using a small funnel through the other hose until oil started to come back through the hoses (use a flashlight to see before it goes to high, less of a mess...). That meant the amount of oil still to go into the cooler was minimal when doing the first test drive.
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Not the best of pictures, only had my phone at hand
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From the Competition manual
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Hehe, seems we have the same reference source :) Just worried grease wont make it in there at all once the rack is completed and it will be to little lubrication if assembled dry, but on the other hand a much nicer job to do if you can try out the right amount of shims without getting the whole workbench covered in grease! Cheers!
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But should I use it when checking tightness of ball joints, pinions etc. or add after everything is tightened down?
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Hi, just about to start putting all the pieces together in my steering rack. Most stuff will go back in but I found a few new parts as well. One thing I can't find any info about in any of the numerous webpages and guides available on the subject is wether to use grease inside the tie rod ball joints when assembling. I have taken every single piece apart and completely degreased them and using new lock tabs and ball joint bushes I guess the smoothness of these must be different if the ball joint is dry when assembled or pre-greased. Since the tightness can be modified using the shims I wanna make sure I do it properly =) What grease should I use by the way, normal grease or wheel bearing grease? Any ideas? Cheers, Oskar
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Hi, job done! The rear u-joint was massively overdue! After fixing this and bolting it all back up together I am happy to report that the odd sound is gone and that a very load clonking sound upon taking off from low speed or stand still also disappeared. That sound have been around for as long as I can remember but always thought it was something with the clutch linkage since it came from the gearbox area but it must just have been the way the sound was transmitted since the u-joint could well be what caused it all along. Cheers!
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OK, got some time this evening so shaft is now off the car and lock-rings liberally sprayed with penetrating oil, hopefully it should be back on the road on saturday :) No need to drop exhaust, it was plenty of room for it to come out with a standard exhaust.
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I wont drive the car until the u-joint is replaced, but wont bother balancing it when making the swap, the whole car is waiting for a massive rebuild and at that stage (hopefully the coming months) I will change the gearbox and propshaft since I'm going down the OD route. At the moment I just want to keep the car on the road and reasonably safe :)
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End result: I took the bicycle to work today ;) So for removing the prop-shaft do I need to remove the exhaust (standard 1500 system)? Will change it out completely for a semi-sport system in a few months but right now it would be great if the old brittle rusty system could hang on for just a little while longer, not sure if it would survive dismantling though... Haynes manual suggests it has to come of but some other manuals don't mention anything but removing the prop-shaft bolts and dragging it out rearwards under the diff. Would it be enough to just drop the exhaust slightly at the rear or do the whole thing need to be dropped? Cheers!
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Hi, quick question. Just came in from a session under the car checking the exhaust system and decided to see if there was any play in the propshaft u-joint, it was... The rear joint has some play in it and I will change it all out this weekend, but how about driving to and from work until then? Big NO NO or likely OK? Any good suggestions for the upcoming u-joint replacement? Recently took the old joints out of a set of spare driveshafts following the Rarebits guide (excellent page!!!) so I know how to get them out, but still never put any u-joints in as I'm still waiting for the paint on the driveshafts to dry and cure. Cheers, Oskar
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Hi, if you buy new ones check the length of them carefully! I was recently sold a pair where the hole for the cotter pin sat 4mm further out than a factory axle. Looking around the net these badly made axles seem to be common stuff from several suppliers. Can be bodged with more washers but I sent them back. Anyone know any part supplier that sell proper axles? Cheers!